[martins]

For a flat screen 16:9 TV, then TV type should (obviously) be 16:9. The other settings are for CRT 4:3 screens. The HDMI or YPbPr (component) output should be set to 1080i if your TV supports it, or 720p if it's a smaller LCD (32" or less) or a plasma that only supports 720p.

As for 4:3 override, that's a matter of personal choice. I don't like the distortion caused by stretching a 4:3 SD picture to the full screen width (although the Toshiba TheaterWide 1 setting stretches only the edges of the picture, leaving the middle undistorted). If you can tolerate the distortion, then by all means use the Stretch setting.

I prefer to use 480i or Off, which leaves black side bars on an SD picture. However, if an SD channel is broadcasting a 16:9 letterboxed picture (e.g. CNN, UK programs, or many comedy or drama shows made in HD), resulting in black borders on all 4 sides, I can use my TV aspect settings (e.g. Toshiba's TheaterWide 2) to zoom the picture to fill the screen. My Samsung TV's aspect control works a bit differently, but it can perform basically the same functions.

 

[martins]

The only time you should get black bands at top and bottom when viewing an HD source on a 16:9 (1.78:1) HDTV is with a theatrical movie that has a wider aspect ratio, e.g. 2.39:1, which is the most common ratio for cinematic projection. If you use the TV zoom function it will cut off the edges of the picture. Regular TV transmissions in 16:9 should fill the screen if the channel box and TV are set correctly.

BTW I have two Motorola DCT6200 non-PVR HD boxes, which I hope to swap for the smaller digital boxes when my area goes all-digital.

If you are looking for a new TV, check out the LED models. They are slightly more expensive but much lighter and thinner, and can be hung on a wall like a picture. Prices are going down all the time; I paid $3,000 for a 46" Samsung LCD in December 2006, and it was a bargain at that time! Now it's a quarter of that price.