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Hi,

I have a problem of which I cannot seem to find a suitable solution by searching products on the internet. In my family room, I have a particular setup with a three way switch that controls an outlet. (Hence I have two light switches on two different walls that control the outlet - pretty standard). Unfortunately the wall outlet is directly behind our TV... not good as I have put tape over the switches to avoid people accidentally turning off the power to the TV. I can run a cable from another outlet discretely along the floor to the TV and that is an acceptable solution for that.

However, I really would like to control a floor lamp on the other side of the room with the outlet. I even want to go so far as to put in a nice timer wall switch (made for three way switches) such that when we go on vacation, it is easy to set it into vacation mode. Running a cable from this controllable outlet to the other side of the room is not feasible as there is a fireplace in the way and a cable going around the fireplace would look terrible.

I thought there might be a product wherein a transmitter can be plugged into one outlet, and a receiver switch in the target outlet. When the transmitting outlet gets power it would wirelessly activate the receiving switch in the other outlet. Unfortunately the closest I seem to get is a receiving outlet paired to a hand held small remote (I want to use the in place wall switches to activate). Does anyone know any ideas?

I had thought of X10, but I am not sure how that works with three way wiring, and also I wanted to use a three way wall timer switch that I have. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
Glenn
 

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Generally, it should be pretty simple to re-wire the outlet internally so only one plug is "switched" and the other is always on.
 

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Easy way, hard wire the switch locations so that outlet is on (put a blank plate on the wall), and use one of those wireless switches (you can get two switches to run one receiver) with a plug in receiver to control the lamp.

Hard way, is to find out how that works, and re wire it, if possible, so that the TV receptacle is always hot, and the lamp receptacle is switched. It should not require running wire from the TV receptacle, but may need pulling wire anyways.
 

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What Classicsat said... Rewire the switch boxes to make the TV outlet live all the time. Replace the existing switches with wireless switches to control the floor lamp.

You probably want a receptacle like this and a switch like this.
 

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A wireless outlet with two wireless switches will work as a 3 way switch.
 

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Generally, it should be pretty simple to re-wire the outlet internally so only one plug is "switched" and the other is always on
This is a very easy fix that will cost no money

Easy way, hard wire the switch locations so that outlet is on (put a blank plate on the wall), and use one of those wireless switches (you can get two switches to run one receiver) with a plug in receiver to control the lamp.

Hard way, is to find out how that works, and re wire it, if possible, so that the TV receptacle is always hot, and the lamp receptacle is switched. It should not require running wire from the TV receptacle, but may need pulling wire anyways.
In order to create a 1/2 switched outlet you have to remove the copper jumper (on the HOT) between the termination screws and wire the switches into one plug and a constant 120V into the other. If you remove one switch like classicsat has mentioned you can use both the red and black as your two hots depending on where your feed starts. If it starts at the switch then make a termination with your feed, a tail (to the switch) and the red for the other hot. The 14/3 black gets connected to the other screw of the switch and at the next switch location you blank it out by marretting it through. Then you connect the black to the top plug for your switched feed and the red to the bottom as your constant 120VAC.

If your feed starts at the outlet then you are able to keep both switches and just make a tail for the constant 120VAC half of the outlet (You feed is likely to start at a switch though).

If you are wanting to keep both switches AND the feed starts at a switch then you will need to run a 14/2 to the outlet location.

We have this setup with two outlet locations in our showroom where the tops are switched and dimmed (table lamps plugged into them) and the bottom is a constant 120VAC (power for the remote base station).

Hope this helps

Tunksy
 

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That depends on how the wiring was routed. There needs to be a conductor that is always live in the box. If not, it cannot be done.
 

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That depends on how the wiring was routed. There needs to be a conductor that is always live in the box. If not, it cannot be done.
This is true, that is why I had mentioned that he may have to run a line to the box if he insists on using both switches.

If he chooses to remove a switch he doesn't need any more wires than the 14/3 that is in place between the switches and the outlet.
 
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