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Discussion Starter #1
Our downstairs washroom has a new tub/shower single handle faucet with the temperature balance feature, it isn't a high dollar Moen/Peerless unit, but it should still work better than it does.

It seemed that it wouldn't flow enough hot water... I was told that there was a travel limit adjuster that determined how much it would travel into the "hot" zone, so I took the handle off and found it - I re-adjusted it to allow the handle to travel a bit further, but now the handle's throw is past the maximum flow volume spot, and the flow gets really restricted when I make it run just straight hot water. The temperature is up, but the flow is already on the down-swing at this far into the turn of the handle. Can anyone tell me if there is a procedure for adjusting the amount of hot water that comes out of these things when it is at it's hottest setting?
Either I have to restrict the cold flow, or increase the hot flow, but I can't find a way to do it.
 

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There's usually integrated shutoff valves in the unit which might not be fully open. They're adjusted with a slotted screwdriver and should be between the water pipe and the main valve (one on each side). If you take off the big trim ring (usually two screws) then it'll be obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've confirmed that there is suficient volume going to the bathroom, and fixtures, but not out of the faucet when I call for hot water.

I took off the trim ring, and yes - there is a couple of adjustments within.
it appears to be a pair of slotted head units locked into place with a jam nut per unit.
It's going to be tricky getting a socket at the jam jut, as there is a backing plate in the way.
Would turning the adjustment "screw" out contained by these jam nuts increase their associate flow, or vice-versa?
 

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Just as an FYI, please realize that the flow on some of these single handle units is quite restricted and you may never get the flow that you had before, if you had separate controls. The "holes" in the faucet are sometimes much smaller, restricting the flow.
 

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Is the flow the same when you have "all hot" or "all cold" water? If so, that may be all the flow you'll get, unless you're "inbetween" temperatures.

However, I thought that the flow on these pressure balanced units was fairly consistent, whether you had all hot, all cold or a mixture (I have one in my shower).

The point is so that if someone flushes a toilet, the temperature stays the same. These units never have the kind of flow that you get with separate handles, that's why I use separate handles (mostly washerless) on all my other sinks/etc.

We have an older (renovated) home with a small (1/2") line to the house, but it's adequate for the two of us. When I renovated I put in 3/4" risers, etc in case we ever replace the (expensive) water line coming in from the street (it is copper and not lead).

At this time of year, when the cold water is quite cold, you may need the control over to use more hot water than you'd use in the summer. You may want to increase the hot water tank temperature, or simply leave it and move the control more to the hot side.
 

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I just took my end-of-year shower (I hope you're all glad ;) ). My "Moentrol" unit purchased in 1990 is a "push/pull" type for on/off/flow, but once pulled "on" for full flow, I can vary the temperature from full hot (turned counter clockwise) to full cold (clockwise) and there is no variation in flowrate throughout the entire temperature range.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
it turns out the slotted head screws I mentioned where check valves to cut stop water flow when servicing.
I shut the cold and hot off, opened the valve body and took a peak.
There are slots in the valve body that upon rotation, open to allow more cold-less hot and vice-versa. it seems as though the cold water slots are larger.
I removed the pressure balance assy,and proved it was clean. I then cracked the check valves to purge anything that remained prior to assembling the valve. water sprayed out as expected.

For a laugh, I re-installed the valve body in reverse, which in effect made the initial on position the hot, and the further "on" you turned the handle, the more cooler it got - this worked perfectly, and lots of hot water with good modulation, but reversed mode controls. I didn't leave it like this, as it could inadvertently burn someone.

It seems as though my hot water tank may not be set high enough, as the pressure balance system is working well.

How hot should I run my hot water tank temperature? I have PEX piping throughout and don't wish for a heat related pipe failure somewhere.
 

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Odd that a pressure balanced unit would be of the "turn to on" type. My pull-for-on/push-for-off unit is set at roughly the correct temperature, so the water isn't too hot or too cold as you turn, er pull, it on...

The lower your tank temperature, the more energy you save since there isn't as much loss to the air, however, there are experts on this forum that can advise you better on higher temperatures and the PEX piping, so I'm not going to go there.

I might be inclined to keep the "reverse mode" and keep the water temperature below scalding throughout the house since it can be a safety issue on your other taps...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yup, I'm thinking I might insert a small foreign restriction into the cold water cct after the pressure balance unit to tip the outlet temperature in my favor.

A threaded sleeve would prolly do it.

The problem with the reverse mode, is there is no way to limit the max temperature at the faucet - the travel limiter doesn't come into effect untill the handle is at full throw.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
'Older thread back to life.
The basement is almost complete, and the kids wish to start using the shower.

I thermo-scanned the Hot water PEX at the hot water tank, it indicated 129 ° F when the shower was at full flow, and the same PEX at the shower showed 128 ° F, SO temperature drop is a non-issue. I turned up my thermostats on the HWT to 145 ° F (I can't turn them past 150 ° F, nor wold I want to).

There still isn't enough hot water flowing.

I have flushed the lines with the offending valve body removed to confirm there are no blockages present.

I'm now going to try to introduce some sort of cold water side "flow restriction" dowwnstream from the pressure ballance device to see if I can affect a change.

The simple solution would be to change the fixture, except in this case, the fixture resides on an outside wall, so access is impossible - unless the fixture can be removed through the hole in the tub-surround.
 

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57..most balancers are turn to on type now.

As far as the problem...I would check thoroughly and if you can't solve it, replace the surround and backing after replacing the valve with a better one. The real problem is a control on an outside wall IMHO. Just an amateur's input.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
the problem is definitely the control on the outside wall...

how this came to be is we built a new house, and gotta smokin' deal on a one piece acrylic tub with a left hand drain. So we had the R.I. plumbing done to accommodate it as such.
Next thing, we start to develop the basement, and move the new tub inside - no go, couldn't fit it in, so we call the dealer and he finds a new 2 peice tub/surround that will go.
If we had avoided being so cheap in the first place, we'd have had no problems. (and all drain stacks would have lined up properly as well.)
 
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