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Nopaytv,

Ater reading the replies from you and ota_canuck, I am considering on buying an amplifier. The antenna mast is pretty rigid, the 8' piece of wood stand off is well shoved into a sturdy aluminum pole.

Before I go out and test the latest Stealth Hawk (15" legs) how much lenght of the legs did you cut off?.

You mentioned that the antenna is getting more channels. Looking forward to test after knowing the final lenght of cut off.

avenger
 

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After thought

ota_canuck,

Which of your antennas design is the best working so far. I have read all the thread on this forum about the Stealth Hawk, and at this point there seems to be no defenite favorite. I like them all but, going up and down from the roof at my old age, it is a little hard. I just realize that a rotor is in the best interest for me. Waiting for Nopay tv reply and back to testing.

avenger.
 

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Stealth Hawk development summary:

I agree... There are so many builds and trials posted in this thread. Development and improvements are ongoing thanks to all of the contributors of these forums. I have selected some favorites that I would recommend.

From my own tests at my location, the following are the top performers to date:

1) SH-289 SH ->VHF/UHF/FM http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=1149158&postcount=289
The SH design shown in the sketch I provided in post#SH289 is the best so far for VHF/UHF/FM with 15" bottom legs.

2) SH-258 SH ->UHF only http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=1147013&postcount=258
If you want UHF only reception, then follow the dimensions listed in post #SH258 with 8" bottom legs.

3) SH-241 Classic SH ->VHF/UHF http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=1146345&postcount=241
These are the classic Stealth Hawk designs shown in post#SH241 with the splayed bottom wings. The outward splayed bottom wings make the Stealth Hawk design VHF friendly. Both designs shown in this post are good for VHF/UHF. The top sketch shows how to use the design with a narod if you want to enhance the VHF band and the other is the classic design for VHF/UHF.

Note: all of these models can be mounted at the very tip of a metal mast, but not bonded electrically to the metal mast.
 

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Discussion Starter #305
Avenger,

I have listed in the above post, the 3 best Stealth Hawk designs [in my opinion] that you should consider building.

If you buy a preamp, don't get a real powerful one, because you have many broadcasters very near your location. Possibly the best choice in your case would be to invest in a inline booster/distribution amp/ drop amp rather than a costly preamp.

No matter what antenna you end up using, a rotor is worth the investment for fine tuning the aim for seasonal changes in reception.
 

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ota_canuck, it looks exactly like the diagram in post 289.

avenger, mine has the 15" legs, but yesterday it had several inches of extra copper wire. I just cut off the extra.

Just now I did a scan and registered 2 analog channels and 72 digital channels.

ota_canuck, how do you think two stealth hawks (post 289) ganged horizontally would do? I built them this afternoon, but haven't had a chance to mount them on the mast yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #307
The SH antennas are low gain near omni-directional antennas to begin with, so to gang [facing different directions] the two antennas would likely result in a net loss in gain due to the loss created by the combiner [reverse splitter] and may also create some antenna phasing issues.
______________________________________

To summarize what I know from my experiences with stacking [facing in the same direction] SHs:

The antenna spacing required between the two stacked SH antennas is still a mystery.

I don't think an SH will work very well upside down, so you'd have to try stacking them side by side or else one above the other with the diamonds pointing upward.

If you somehow could run phase lines between the antennas and then attach the balun at the halfway point of those added phase lines, then maybe it would work, but my experience with such attempts of joining SHs have so far failed to gain anything.

As a matter of fact, it may be near impossible to stack or gang two omnidirectional antennas.;) But I'll probably die trying :p
 

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Final Test and Results 0f SH-289

ota_canuck,

Re-made the SH-289 antenna using #6 wire. Did test most of the afternoon till about 30 minutes ago ( my time now is 5:43 PM) central time. Rotated the antenna from my normal marked starting point ever so slowly, finally got to the same spot where my 9 1/2" wiskers was located.

The antenna received the same amount of stations and channels as the wiskers. Now here comes the unusual part which I have never ever seen before. All the channel numbers reverted to their "Real" channel numbers designation from the "Virtual" channel numbers as noted on the Tvfool chart.

All the channels have the same call sign with different channel numbers. I did not change setting or anything, Boom there it is.

Anothe thing, as you explained earlier, this antenna is very finicky and it causes alot of pixelation with the slighless movement from the wind, I have not noticed anything from passing vehicles as of yet. Is there antything that can be done to correct this anomoly?.

Well this is my report as promised, I like the simplicity and how easy it was to make.

Thanks for the help.:D

avenger
 

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Discussion Starter #310
Avenger,

The effects of antenna movements or reflective objects moving past an antenna is not an anomoly specific to SHs, All antennas will behave similar to such movements, but because the SH is mult-directional, it may be more noticable because it is essentially aimed in all directions all of the time, whereas a directional antenna is only aimed in one direction at any given time.

Sometimes during a weak reception period, the tuner will revert to dislay the RF channel #s into the channel list because it loses the station's psip info temporaily, If you check, you'll find that the virtual channel is still in the channel list. That is a common fault when you use a rotor/antenna, and you'd have to delete/hide the RF channel #s from the channel list to prevent the issue from reoccurring as you rotate the antenna.

As far as your results: it appears that the compass locations of all the various stations are so scattered that even with using a multi-directional antenna, you will still require some use of a rotor. A whisker antenna definately would need the use of a rotor,

Did you add a preamp or a distribution amp?
 

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No preamp or distribution amp as yet.

ota_canuck,

Today there were some stations and channels missing from the lineup. Even though the Stealth Hawk is multi-directional, it looks like rotating it just a bit, it looses or gain stations as if were partial directional.

Will go to my friendly Radio Shack and invest on a distribution amp.

Will report the findings.

avenger
 

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avenger, get the radio shack #15-321 signal amplifier. It works great for me.



People say not to get radio shack, but mine performs as good or better than the Winegard I have.
 

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People say not to get radio shack, but mine performs as good or better than the Winegard I have.
Thats because they are high noise units. For about the same money, you can get lower noise Channel Master or Winegard units. The only thing RS has going for it is that its easier to return the unit to a local store than shipping it back.
Of course individual units can vary. Your RS may be better than normal or your Winegard may be on the defective side.
 

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I've had several of the rat shack inline amps and they only last 6 months to a year. Think the summer heat fries them.
 

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ota_canuck: how are you connecting the balun to the flat aluminum element? Are you drilling a hole thru the element, or...? Can you post a close-up pic?
 

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Discussion Starter #316
Yes,... I drilled 2 holes in the element on each side[1/2" apart]. Then I used small 10-24 bolts from the inside of the pvc box [with the screw heads on the inside of the box] then the elements are held onto the outside of the box with 10-24 nuts. The balun connection wires should be secured on the inside of the box under the screw heads and use only the top screw heads to connect the left and right balun wires.



I hope this helps!

The one in this pic is the Post#289 design, but I flipped the lower legs upward with 5" wings in the classic SH style to get better VHF, but at the cost to losing some higher UHF. In Post #304 I listed 3 favorites, this one would have been my 4th favorite except it damages the UHF too much.
 

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I agree that the stealth hawk in post 289 is the best so far. So much so that I built three of them, two connected to two tvs and one connected to my tuner on the computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #318
I agree that the stealth hawk in post 289 is the best so far. So much so that I built three of them, two connected to two tvs and one connected to my tuner on the computer.
Agreed 100%. I have one on the shop and one on the house. The house is made of #10 wire and the one on the shop is made with 3/4" flat aluminium. The one in the picture above is the same #289 design with modified lower legs [flipped up as wings] ,.. I have since straightened those lower legs back to the #289 sketch dimensions.
 

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SH in an attic?

I've been watching this thread for a while due to my father-in-law's recent frustration with his attic-mounted CM 4221(4-bay). It looks like sdilullo is the only one that seems to have a SH in his attic. :confused:

Are there any caveats with putting one in an attic? I see things like "The SH is very sensitive to any objects being too close to the element" in post 295. Not sure what this might mean for the location to place it within the attic?!? Is it reasonable to think it may outperform a 4221 from the attic? It's a 2-story house so it would be quite high above ground level.

Assuming this is worth trying, I'm wondering what to build it with considering both performance and ease of acquiring the materials. I have a metal shop close to me (ie. very easy to get the materials) that have things like 1/8" or 3/16" aluminum rods. Would these be suitable?

Thanks for any advice!
 

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Discussion Starter #320
In my case, a SH works better than a singleGH or a cm4221 despite the modeling results that tell us that the SH is rated to have the lowest raw gain of all three of those antenna designs. One reason is that, from my location, I have scattered markets to aim for, so something multidirectional is ideal. The second reason is it requires no rotor. The third reason is that I can get all the same channels with any of these antennas, but with the GH or a 4bay I'd have to use a rotor.

Your situation with an interior specific attic build may give you an advantage on the simplicity of the build and the materials. If you can get some flat aluminium, then simply make the element and strap the feed points onto the end of a 2x2 block [wrap some electrical tape around the surface of the wooden block]. You can see how I mounted the one in post #316, but with that mounting method, you'll have to allow an extra 1" per side for the mountin screws. Otherwise you can just use #10 wire copper, galvanized or some 1/8" or 3/16" metal tubing material to make the elements.

"The SH is very sensitive to any objects being too close to the element" in post 295
It would not be advisable to mount any antenna close to anything metalic or electrical. The more free unobstructed space around an antenna, the less will be the chance of having unwanted reflections. That quote that you mentioned refers to avoid having a mast running into or through the air space within the diamond area of the antenna nor adding other elements, directors, narods or reflectors.

Note: post #286 shows the peak aiming patterns for various frequencies.
 
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