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Sound proofing... no right answer!

If your starting from studs/framing, then the typical route is Roxul Safe'N'Sound for insulation but even fiberglass batt insulation will work. All cavities must be filled, no air spaces. Next up is RSIC clips/resilient channel typically, second best would be hat channel, the cheapest would be furring strips. If your going straight on studs, then integrity gasket (I use Owens Corning sill gasket ripped into 2by strips) on the stud surfaces helps with isolation. Next is drywall, the more mass the better but also the more expensive. Typical would be double drywall with Green Glue, but you could go with single 5/8" or 1/2" drywall only. If sound transmission is a problem, add another layer of drywall (with GG) at a later date. Solid core door and door gasket/sweep. For duct work, there is stick-on sound isolation material (I use stuff for reducing road noise in cars; aluminum backed closed cell foam) and of course all drywall joints have accoustic sealed. Electrical boxes can be buttered with accoustical sealant (or accoustical putty sheets).

The above will result in a room with a significantly lower STC. The idea is to get the biggest bang for the buck. All of the above materials are fairly basic price wise (not over inflated like the QuietRoc) but don't expect to do a room for next to nothing. Material is material, labour is labour. Material cost depends on what "your" requirements/desires/goals are; don't have much in those terms and you can save on materials. Labour cost can be saved via DIY but you have to assume the time/risk; getting a contractor will jack the price obviously.

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