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I have a 120hz LG LCD with 70 000:1 contrast, 1080p , 42 inch and 3ms response time which last year I paid 1500 for and since then TV's have gotten soo much cheaper. I am thinking I could get 400-500 bucks if I sell this LG, for what looks to be one of the best looking HDTV's for 2010, panasonic's g20/g25 on sale for 1100 and I also have 800 on me. The specs clearly smoke LG's 120hz lcd out of the water with 5 000 000:1 contrasts and 600hz sub field. I only game 2 hours a day 2-3 times a week and sometimes old xbox with modded emulators have black bars on top or bottom, so I might game 1 hour with games that have bars. I also know how to break in and use stretch mode for SD watching. Mainly this will be for HD watching, Blu rays, Standard DVD's upconverted, and moderate gaming. I think I will make vivid or recommemded settings for HD viewing and 360 games and for SD movies, SD games or stuff with any bars I will also make a low setting mode with very high anti retention settings and utilize stretching the picture. Does this sound like the right thing here, I want colors to pop and heard this is panasonic's top of the line and the price is insanely cheap.
 

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Greetings

The VT25 is the top end, not the G series. The G's are the first level of THX certified displays.

Image retention is not a big deal if you exercise the TV after you game for a while or watch a bunch of w/d flicks. What this means is that you put on some material that fills the screen with plenty of movement for about 15 to 20 min after you game ... and then you turn the tv off. This eliminates the retention and you are good to go the next time.

(Sleep timer is a good way to use something like this) I loaded a number of pictures into my Samsung plasma and just run the slide show for 15 minutes.

Oh yes, the 5000000 to 1 contrast numbers are just made up. They mean nothing. Manufacturer trainers and QA people have even said that to me. They wait to see what a competitor comes up with for a number and they just make their number higher.

Real contrast ratio numbers for full on/off are more likely under 10000:1 ... (when done the correct and accepted way)

regards
 

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I have a 120hz LG LCD ... which last year I paid 1500 for ... I am thinking I could get 400-500 bucks if I sell this LG ... Does this sound like the right thing here ...
A loss of $1,000 on your current TV seems like a pretty steep hit to take just to get into the "latest and greatest". But if you don't mind that, and if you're sure that the new TV will give you what you're looking for, go for it.
 

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I would say "rent" the tv for a couple weeks, and by this I mean buy the tv and see if it is worth the loss of a $1000 from your old set and the new investment and eventual depreciation loss of when the next best thing comes out and you "have to sell" this one. If it is not worth the loss, take it back as most companies have a 2 week to 30 day return policy. This way you can directly compare the sets, if you can take the "rental hit" of the price of the tv until you return it or sell the old set. And if you like it enough, then you already have it.

You have to get the set home and set up in order to see what it is really like. Specs have very little meaning when it is all one-upmanship for advertising purposes.
 

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Plasma 3d superior to lcd or led plasmas

I have been looking into 3d plasma tv's and found out
that only plasma is capable of displaying 3d in full
1080p .Hope that helps.
 
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