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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am a happy owner of a GE sealed burner natural gas stove (last 10 years). However, we will be moving this summer and I am considering my appliance options at the new place. Just wondering if anyone has any advice on the options.

For starters there is no natural gas so that option is out. My second option is a rented propane tank and conversion of my existing stove (I have the adapter kit). This would avoid having to buy yet another appliance. But I still have the cost of installation. I am hoping the propane gas company will offer some inexpensive installation incentives. I absolutely love cooking on gas and it has come in handy during power failures.

I decided on the rental since your insurance premium jumps up with an owner-maintained tank. More than the annual rental I think.

The last option is to buy an electric stove. Have electric stoves progressed since the last time I looked?

One thing I do not know is the cost of propane versus natural gas versus electricity for a stove. I am assuming that for about 1 hour of usage a day (max 40000 BTU) the difference would be insignificant.

FYI: A kwh here is about 5.5 cents for the first 30 kwh/day and 7.0 cents after that. Cheap I know. ;)
 

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For the propane company to drop a tank you will probably need more then a propane stove for them to do it for free or even at all. I know they really hate to rent tanks to single appliance installs.
But of course when u call in you tell them you have a stove and "intend" to go propane furnace and water heater.. :)

Your conversion cost would be less then one hour hvac labour rate. To run a line can range from a couple hundred to alot more it really depends on how far away from the tank they are running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks TKG26. The run would be about 12 feet. The basement is still open so the line could come up through the floor behind the stove.

I may get another line run to my BBQ if that is any incentive for them ;). I don't think I would convert to a propane furnace or hot water tank. A fireplace maybe. I would need to know the cost/therm is better than my stable electricity rates. Thanks for the tips.

IWMH, I will check out those new fangled stoves. Thanks for the link.
 

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You really need to research the utilities in your area. ITs a given that nat gas will be cheaper against propane,oil and electric heat and hotwater..... But the real comparison for you is propane vs oil vs electric... Personally i would be all over a 2stage hi eff propane furance over oil.. im pretty sure in the end that propane should be cheaper to heat with but again it varies so much with oil and propane.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Induction ranges are a no go and induction cooktops start at $2000. Propane rental is actually about $50/year for a 100lb tank. There is a $75 installation fee plus a $75 permit. I would need about 10 feet of line installed so that would be about $200 I figure. I think if I go this route I will get a line run to the back deck where the BBQ will be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I figure I would add another chapter to this story. Also, I did not post about what decision I took back in 2008. So 14 years later, here it goes.

In 2008 I ended up buying a used electric range. It was a 2005 KitchenAid glass top YKERC507. All the bells and whistles. Convection, proofing, dehydrating, 2 interior lights, 3 racks, 2 120V plugs, warming element, simmer element, 4 elements (2 with large/small elements). I only paid $500 for it.

My only complaint was due to the convection fan in the back some of my larger baking pans were 1" too deep. I also found the convection fan loud but not enough to open it up and see if I could quiet it down some.

This last year I have noticed an increasing number of Power Failure faults being displayed. And most recently it would activate the Self-Clean function but not actually start it. Rendering the oven non-operational. The cooktop still works.

I took the control panel off which was remarkably easy and noticed the membrane switch (not pictured) had some corrosion on the "Clean" pad contacts. Since the membranes are layered and sealed plastic parts it is not possible to clean the contact without deforming and ruining the plastic touchpad. You can buy replacement membranes but this model is too old and there are zero hits for just the membrane. Most places sell the entire circuit board, and membrane for about $500. But they are not mainstream and I don't plan to pay $500 plus tax and shipping hoping it is not something else like a short elsewhere. I ended up using an exacto blade and snipped the wire trace that went to the defective Clean button. I suspect the corrosion was shorting the contacts thinking the button was always pushed. This fixed the "clean" issue but the occasional power failure kept happening while using the oven while not.

While I had the circuit board off I checked the caps and they looks good. But a few of the resistors show scorch marks. At this point I don't plan to test, source and replace the resistors. I might just be chasing other partially failing components. So I am ready to send her to the Rainbow Kitchen. She had a good life at 17 human years.
Circuit component Electronic component Electronic engineering Computer hardware Urban design


Now I have been searching out new ranges and decided it is time for Induction as suggested back in 2008 here. I know how they work and the options are greatly improved since I looked in 2008. I did buy a single induction cooktop a few years ago use it when we fry fish outside. I don't mind the additional noise. I tested my SS pots and they are all strongly magnetic. I did discover that the lids are not magnetic but the sides and bottom are, which is neat. I also did a deep dive into various types of SS as I will need to replace my frying pans. I also have Creuset and cast iron as well. I saw a nice stainless steel frying pan set at Costco that said they were compatible with induction. I will also need to donate my Heritage Rock pan and Lagostina wok.

It is not possible to avoid touchpads. But at least modern ranges use glass touchpads instead of the plastic membranes that was common years ago. I do like knobs for the cooktop. I do wonder which tech is most reliable? CR reports that LG and Fridgidaire are the most reliable models.

I think I will try to make it to Black Friday and see what sales are like.

Any thoughts?
 

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We still have our 32 year old white GE "stove". It's a self clean oven with the regular 4 electrical coil elements on top and knobs for controls (not a smooth top). I have replaced the bottom oven element myself a couple of times at a cost of about $40 each time. I also replaced the fluorescent light on the back of the stove in the control panel myself with an LED strip about a year ago, even though we didn't use that a lot. It was fun to see if I could. The replacement fluorescent bulbs were no longer available and the equivalent LED bulb was very expensive (close to $100, whereas the LED strip cost me about $5).

Because it's old, the oven temperature and time can be tricky to set after a power failure because that knob "skips" some temperatures and time, but I can usually get the time correct in about 30 seconds by going back and forth, and we leave the oven temperature at 350 for most oven cooking. When we need to change the temperature for broiling or something, it can take me another 30 seconds to get it back to 350 after broil, which is easy to set because it's "at the end" of travel.

I looked for new self clean stoves that are similar and they are available for about $1000 or less. Some day I won't be able to set the temperature/time and I'll get a new stove, but in the meantime this will do us just fine. (Replacement control panels are no longer available and would be expensive) We run the self-clean cycle about once a year. Otherwise our stove looks and operates like new and our friends sometimes ask if we got a new stove.

Good luck with your "hunt".
 

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Last time my appliance repair guy was here he took a look at my 20 year old washer and dryer and said to keep them as long as possible, that the newer models now with all the computer chips, digital displays are junk and expensive to repair. He even said he would buy them from me if I ever decided to sell. So it seems that for appliances now, older is better.;)
 

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I figure I would add another chapter to this story. Also, I did not post about what decision I took back in 2008. So 14 years later, here it goes.

In 2008 I ended up buying a used electric range. It was a 2005 KitchenAid glass top YKERC507. All the bells and whistles. Convection, proofing, dehydrating, 2 interior lights, 3 racks, 2 120V plugs, warming element, simmer element, 4 elements (2 with large/small elements). I only paid $500 for it.

My only complaint was due to the convection fan in the back some of my larger baking pans were 1" too deep. I also found the convection fan loud but not enough to open it up and see if I could quiet it down some.

This last year I have noticed an increasing number of Power Failure faults being displayed. And most recently it would activate the Self-Clean function but not actually start it. Rendering the oven non-operational. The cooktop still works.

I took the control panel off which was remarkably easy and noticed the membrane switch (not pictured) had some corrosion on the "Clean" pad contacts. Since the membranes are layered and sealed plastic parts it is not possible to clean the contact without deforming and ruining the plastic touchpad. You can buy replacement membranes but this model is too old and there are zero hits for just the membrane. Most places sell the entire circuit board, and membrane for about $500. But they are not mainstream and I don't plan to pay $500 plus tax and shipping hoping it is not something else like a short elsewhere. I ended up using an exacto blade and snipped the wire trace that went to the defective Clean button. I suspect the corrosion was shorting the contacts thinking the button was always pushed. This fixed the "clean" issue but the occasional power failure kept happening while using the oven while not.

While I had the circuit board off I checked the caps and they looks good. But a few of the resistors show scorch marks. At this point I don't plan to test, source and replace the resistors. I might just be chasing other partially failing components. So I am ready to send her to the Rainbow Kitchen. She had a good life at 17 human years.
View attachment 12912

Now I have been searching out new ranges and decided it is time for Induction as suggested back in 2008 here. I know how they work and the options are greatly improved since I looked in 2008. I did buy a single induction cooktop a few years ago use it when we fry fish outside. I don't mind the additional noise. I tested my SS pots and they are all strongly magnetic. I did discover that the lids are not magnetic but the sides and bottom are, which is neat. I also did a deep dive into various types of SS as I will need to replace my frying pans. I also have Creuset and cast iron as well. I saw a nice stainless steel frying pan set at Costco that said they were compatible with induction. I will also need to donate my Heritage Rock pan and Lagostina wok.

It is not possible to avoid touchpads. But at least modern ranges use glass touchpads instead of the plastic membranes that was common years ago. I do like knobs for the cooktop. I do wonder which tech is most reliable? CR reports that LG and Fridgidaire are the most reliable models.

I think I will try to make it to Black Friday and see what sales are like.

Any thoughts?
We moved a few years back to a house with no natural gas with a standard electric range and we hated it after using gas in the old house. We upgraded to a LG induction and love it. Actually prefer it to gas, instant control for heat and super easy clean up.
 

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With induction your pot and pans must be of a certain standard to operate efficently. Too many pots and pans today are thin and warp easily.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That is good thing though. Induction tolerates warped pans better than coils or glass tops. The magnetic field drops only a few percentages in these cases. I seem to recall reading up to 5mm. Whereas glass top relies heavily on contact. One of my favorite frying pans has rounded a bit and has hot spots where it touches. I've taken a sledgehammer to it on occasions. :)

I agree with quality pots and pans. Some of my pots were my grandparents daily drivers back in the 60s. Not pretty but flat and highly magnetic. My Crueset set is like a mini MRI on my Induction mini-cooktop. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well next hurtle seems to be availability. As in no instore availability in the 3 model I prefer. And online options are "unable to determine shipping date" so I will not be doing the old reserve and wait.

Since I need a range, I think my next option is to buy a used model and wait for the supply to catch up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Stock is now available. Pulled the trigger on an induction range from LG. Got the 2+3 year extended warranty for peace of mind. If anyone is interested Yale Appliances rated induction ranges. Value is repair rate in the first year.
Note on brands and parent companies: JennAir and KitchenAid -> Whirlpool. GE/Profile/Café and Fisher & Paykel ->Haier, Café -> Haier, Frigidaire -> Electrolux.

Yale Appliances
JennAir 2.6%
GE Profile 3.5%
KitchenAid 6.0%
Bosch 8.0%
LG 10.3%
Samsung 10.6%
Beko 13.9%
Café Appliances 15.6%
Miele 17.2%
Fisher & Paykel 17.7%

Consumer Reports only lists a scale from 1-5 after 5 years of ownership. In no particular order:

GE Profile 4
Frigidaire Gallery 5
LG 5
LG Studio 5
Samsung 3
KitchenAid 3

Consumer Reports Ranking for Induction Ranges
GE Profile PHS93XYPFS 89
Frigidaire Gallery GCRI3058AF 87
LG LSE4616ST 87
LG LSE4617ST 87
LG Studio LSIS3018SS 87
Frigidaire Gallery FGIH3047VF 87
 

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Living in Canada We have never owned any appliance that ran on Propane except our Backyard Barbeque. We have always had Electric Stove, Dryer, even Fireplace. I have noticed Propane Stoves are far more common in Europe and Africa, but yes they exist here too but maybe for the people who live in more rural communities and not the big cities.

At my current house the stove happens to be Natural Gas. I am actually quite happy with how it cooks and regulates the temperature compared to growing up with Electric ovens all my life. I'm actually in the market for a new one as the prior home owners did not really maintain their appliances that well and now I'm starting to run into problems.
 

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Stock is now available. Pulled the trigger on an induction range from LG. Got the 2+3 year extended warranty for peace of mind. If anyone is interested Yale Appliances rated induction ranges. Value is repair rate in the first year.
Note on brands and parent companies: JennAir and KitchenAid -> Whirlpool. GE/Profile/Café and Fisher & Paykel ->Haier, Café -> Haier, Frigidaire -> Electrolux.

Yale Appliances
JennAir 2.6%
GE Profile 3.5%
KitchenAid 6.0%
Bosch 8.0%
LG 10.3%
Samsung 10.6%
Beko 13.9%
Café Appliances 15.6%
Miele 17.2%
Fisher & Paykel 17.7%

Consumer Reports only lists a scale from 1-5 after 5 years of ownership. In no particular order:

GE Profile 4
Frigidaire Gallery 5
LG 5
LG Studio 5
Samsung 3
KitchenAid 3

Consumer Reports Ranking for Induction Ranges
GE Profile PHS93XYPFS 89
Frigidaire Gallery GCRI3058AF 87
LG LSE4616ST 87
LG LSE4617ST 87
LG Studio LSIS3018SS 87
Frigidaire Gallery FGIH3047VF 87
Have had LG studio induction for two years now. Very happy with it
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
@buckycat I got the LG Studio as well. @17671 Induction is a bit like gas in that the temperature response is immediate. The initial cost is higher. Other reasons are efficiency, that is less loss due to radiation from the element. The biggest factor though it seems is indoor pollutants. It is strange that a device will, under normal conditions, exceed Health Canada Guidelines yet remains so popular and available. At the stores I visited about half the models were gas ranges. It remains popular in town and like you said there is the propane option for the rural folks. I owned a gas range for years. In fact we had a furnace, water tank, dryer, fireplace and range were all gas. Everything is directly vented except for the range. For that we would run the range hood about 1/2 the time.
 
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