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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Thanks

Dragonette is a great performer.

She wore a nice stage outfit too. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Gordonb you are so right

Having used the 70-200 F2.8 IS II all weekend I have gotten used to the weight of the lens or has my arm muscle got some work out.

I should be ashamed of thinking it's heavy. The photographers that had a media pass the majority had the 70-200mm F2.8 IS.





She is no more than 5 feet, Jennifer she shoots freelance for the Globe and Mail. She uses a 5D II and 5D it's her own camera equipment.

 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Had a friend carry my other camera so I could switch back and forth quickly. Took off the tripod collar.


I gotta take lesson from Jennifer on how she carries and uses both bodies quickly. She is also packing a camera backpack.

Man I can't wait to get back the 7D from service. I'm expecting it this week I already called last week and they say the tech has it now. My wife nephew tells me his coworkers(girls) play competition beach volley ball down Ashbridge beach Toronto.

He is going to call me when they play in two weeks. :)
 

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Now all you need is a 16-35 f/2.8L for the other body and you'll be all set :p

Seriously if your using the 7D then a EF-S 10-20 would work as up tight large apertures are less necessary to eliminate camera shake other than for low light but usable ISO3200 and processing software (Noise Ninja etc.) can make it work.

Glad to see your enjoying the lens. But I do think you'll find having the tripod collar on and resting that in your palm will feel natural. But we all have to find what works for us.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I will try with the collar back on. Thought with the weight of the lens pushing down on the collar in my hand it would be sore after awhile.

Hmmm maybe thats why all these women use the collar on the lens. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Hi Gordon that's a neat photo where was that ?

What is it supposed to be? Nice blue sky.
 

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Great pics again.

Just curious if you did any post-processing to enhance the colors on those photos. Those reds really stand out on my display, though it could just be due to the high-color gamut LCD I have (Dell 2408WFP).
 

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I use the 17-55 and 70-200 when I carry two bodies. It works great. You get a workout too. :p

I have a 10-22 also. I've had it for two years and I think I used it only once. I might sell it to help fund a 100-400.

See Yaamon, we knew you won't regret your purchase. :cool:
 

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Great pics again.

Just curious if you did any post-processing to enhance the colors on those photos. Those reds really stand out on my display, though it could just be due to the high-color gamut LCD I have (Dell 2408WFP).
I shoot in RAW so I always do some post processing but that is usually limited to: Correcting white balance if required 1st, exposure adjustment (i.e. black & white point) in Camera Raw, a mild bit of input sharpening, perhaps a dash of clarity & vibrance (seasoned with a sprinkling of vignetting correction, Colour & Luminance noise reduction in ACR if required). Then in Photoshop curves or levels are adjusted to a visually pleasing amount, cropping is performed, exposure in the print is selectively adjusted if required (i.e. dodging or burning) at this point I might save an intermediate TIFF with layers or just convert to 8-bit per pixel color depth, resize to the target resolution, change the colour space to sRGB if outputting to the web or a photo lab and finally output sharpen.

Do I adjust colour? No, not usually intentionally but I find the RAW images output by my 1Ds body soft and under saturated so I have the presets in ACR to add 13 units of saturation and typically 60 - 70% input sharpening with a radius of 0.9 pixel and threshold of 12 levels.
 

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...I have a 10-22 also. I've had it for two years and I think I used it only once. I might sell it to help fund a 100-400...
"Push in tight and go wide"
24mm, f/5.6, ISO100, 1/400s
This is on full frame - your 17-55 on the 7D is just over 28mm. Wide can be really fun but can take some getting used to framing so the images aren't too distorted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Notsure

The two lens that I used last week was the 24-105mm F4 IS and retails for $1350 plus taxes, but if you are interested you can buy used in good to new like condition for around $950 to $1000.

The 70-200 F2.8 IS II is a new lens and that one ouch cost a bit more $2500 plus taxes.

In the same range 70-200mm F4 IS is a very good lens, I also have that one and is half the weight of the 2.8 and is a lot cheaper $1270 plus taxes.

The new F2.8 IS II is tacky sharp at 2.8 throught the focal range. I tested my copy that I got. Here are a two photos at F2.8.





24-105
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Post Processing

Gordon that's a lot of processing. :)

I used to use canon DPP as it supports auto peripheral illumination correction for the camera body that supports it and crop and rotate and then export to photoshop.

Now CS5 now has the profile for most body and lens combinations so I now open my raw on cs5 enable auto lens correction and then adjust any recovery and white balance as need. Resize and smart sharpen anywhere between 30-45.

I would like to learn how to use layers and mask.
 

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Gordon that's a lot of processing. :)...
Yes, it seems like a lot but most are handled by setting my defaults in ACR and the rest are some simple keyboard shortcuts. <CTRL><ALT><I> to resize, <ALT>R 240 to set the resolution, <CTRL>L to adjust levels, <ALT>I,M,A to reduce to 8bpp, <CTRL>SHIFT>S, <ALT>F,T,T to save as a TIFF, <ALT>E,V,<ENTER> to change the profile to sRGB, <CTRL>F<ENTER> to sharpen with last settings, <ALT>F,S<ALT>F,J<ENTER><ENTER> to save as a JPEG, <CTRL><SHIFT>W to exit back to bridge - or, use an action to assign many of these keys to a Function key.

All in all once I crop and adjust levels I use one action to perform the rest so average processing time is under 20 seconds per image. It's just a matter of spending the time to figure out the workflow and then automate it.
 

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For the wide angle I was using a 24-105 f/4L IS which is around $1800. But this is on a full frame camera. On a reduced image circle camera (Nikon D90, Canon T) you would need around 15mm to get that wide. This shot could have been done with a kit lens. Opportunity & timing were everything. I was lying on the sand (don't be afraid to look like a fool) watching the kids build sand castles when the youngest jumped up and spun around to get something. I just reacted, followed the movement and kissed the shutter. In the original image the horizon is at a 30 degree angle and the image is cropped. I had to clone out some other people:
The subject is centered in the origial frame as I use the center AF point out of habit (It is more sensitive at wider apertures) and usually focus & recompose but did not have the time in this case, BUT I GOT THE SHOT. I made a conscious decision to crop out the sand at the bottom to include the expase of sky and placed the subject to the right to give her an area on the left to move into.

I know some people say they never edit or adjust but I've rarely met an image that couldn't be strengthened by post processing. Remember that having kit lenses does not prevent you from getting great photos. Good glass just takes things up a notch or two.
 
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