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It is defintely possible to have the 2wire gateway installed in a different location than your VIP1216, this is how my setup is done, although the wiring is a little different than described by others hear.

Your plan to use your existing network should work fine. I had a whole setup of mixed wifi and wired connections going. I had some initial problems as the 2wire firewall was blocking certain ports however I changed the wired connection between the 2wire and my existing network to be in the DMZ and that issue went away. The only issue I am having now is that the Internet connection seems to drop for about 2-5 seconds every half hour. I am planning to talk to tech support to see if they can help locate the cause as this is a new issue for me.

One final piece of advice to keep in mind if you are going for a minimalistic setup, the VIP1216 has an internal green led that flashes pretty much constantly, I think it is a network activity indicator. You can see it through the ventelation holes in the top of the case. It is actually very noticable in a dark room, especially if your tv is off. You may want to take that into account when planning your equipment location.
CoryB, did you ever discover the cause for your periodic connection drop? I'm having the same issue and I think I've narrowed down the cause to the fact that I have the 2wire router linked into a 2nd DLink router via the DMZplus address type. The DLink connects all my home networking gear, similar to Dice1111's setup.

The DMZplus DHCP lease is only 10 minutes and I think the DLink is renewing the lease causing the drop. Ordinarily, a DHCP client will essentially ask the server if the lease it has is OK and if it is, it should just keep the link up. I have to sniff the traffic between the two routers to see what the conversation actually is to say for sure whether it's the DLink dropping the connection instead of asking to keep the IP or if it's the 2Wire telling the DLink to renew (but using the same IP).


Update: a possible cause and fix: http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=28200&highlight=lease

Update 2: disabling the SPI firewall on the DLink appears to have solved the DHCP lease issue... but I haven't confirmed whether or not that solves the disconnect issue or not.
 

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That pretty closely mirrors my network setup. The brand of the router after the 2wire is different but it is running DD-WRT.

I will attempt the fix tonight and post my findings.

One other bit of info that people may find useful to know is that coaxial from the 2wire to the PVR is an allowed configuration for MTS Ultimate tv as verified with tech support yesterday.

Further, if you experience freezing try physically unplugging all setup top boxes and the 2wire, start by plugging the 2ire back in, then the pvr and then the other boxes. I was having some issues with this and that fix has so far completely solved the issue.
 

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I'm going to assume that tech support was misinformed.

I'm not here to start an argument, just to point out what their training material says. And I'm confident that the head MTS guy in charge of dealing with all the contracting companies would say this is not to their standards. He's a real hard a__ when it comes to this kind of stuff. But obviously contractors do cut corners, and some do slip by their quality control techs.

I haven't ever used coax to the PVR, and I'm sure it works, but I don't want to be told I have to go back to a bunch of my installations to run a new cat 5 line because it wasn't done to their standards.

I don't know their true reasoning, but maybe cat5e can handle more bandwidth than HPNA over coax :confused:

Thanks :)
 

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Remote question of the day... are the MTS remotes for the boxes IR remotes only or also UHF remotes? I have one of my boxes hidden in a bedroom closet for the TV in the bedroom and have a UHF remote with the Shaw Direct box that makes this work great! Still debating about going to MTS.... :)
 

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From what I know, they are only IR, but heard that MTS is working on making them capable of UHF.
 

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Sorry for the slow response.

I tested the suggestion above, disabled SPI on the DD-WRT firmware, and can confirm it solves the periodic connection drops on the Internet.
 

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The preferred method of installation is with Cat.5 from the 2Wire RG to the VIP1216 (PVR Set Top). A coaxial connection can be used in situations where it is near impossible to run a new Cat.5 cable and the existing coax is in exceptional condition.
 

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I wish I could use coax, but to install it to "MTS Standards" we've been told it MUST be fed with cat5.

Now, if the customer decides to hook it up themselves with coax after the fact, and cause problems, that's up to them. But the installer shouldn't be doing it this way at all, and IMO, if they do they aren't good installers. Where there's a will, there's a way.

Contractors love to cut corners... :(
 

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I stumbled onto this area while searching to a solution to a problem that is related to what is being discussed here.

I currently have a DLink DIR-625 installed behind my 3800HGV-B. The DLink acts as my wireless router and my main PC is hard wired into it. All other computers, data devices, a printer and the Wii access the 625 via wireless N or G. The Dlink is using addresses in the 192.168.222.xxx/255.255.255.0 range while the 2wire uses 192.168.100.xxx/255.255.255.0. My physical setup looks a lot like dice1111's except I only have a total of 3 tv's connected to the 2wire.

Everything was working fine until a recent Christmas addition. There is now a PS3 connected to a lan port on the 2wire. The connection is made there because the two devices are physically only a foot or two apart. The PS3 has internet access, and I can ping it from my main PC on the Dlink, but I am not able to connect it to that PC and use it as a media server.

I really don't want to turn the Dlink into a simple switch, because in addition to the hardware firewall, I am using Dlink's on-line software firewall, internet filtering and virus scanning system that is enabled in the 625's firmware.

Short of installing another run of 50 feet of cat5 from the PS3 to the Dlink, is there any way I can get the two devices talking over the networks? :confused: Thanks.
 

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The problem you're having is that your PS3 and PC's are on two different subnets. I don't suspect you could get it working in the current configuration, you would have to add a static route between the 2wire and the Dlink pointing multicast in each device's related subnet to the other device. Since you have the cat5 from the 2wire RG likely going into the WAN/Internet port on your dlink, I don't suspect you could do this properly, and this likely wouldn't carry UDP packets between the two properly.

My recommendations are to choose one of the following:

1) If you're bent on using your dlink router, you need to connect your PS3 to it. I think all PS3's come with 802.11g WiFi so if your router supports it, that's one method - likely not the "best" solution for gaming, as there may be some added latency, but if the wireless signal is good - excellent, you likely won't notice much difference. The other option is a very long Cat5. run between the two.

2) Don't use your Dlink as a router and convert the settings so it acts as a layer 2 switch. This will place all your computers onto the 2wire's subnet so they can all communicate/"see" each other. The current method you have right now, really does not increase your security as the 2wire has an advanced firewall in it, on top of basic NAT. Having the dlink behind it sets you up for potential problems using certain applications. You would lose however the other features that you mentioned (D-Link's filtering, software firewall, antivirus).
 

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I appreciate the reply, David. I've actually tried using the Dlink as a switch with the cat5 moved to a lan port from the wan and disabling DHCP. The 2wire assigned all devices ip's in its own subnet except for the dlink which was showing up with the public wan ip. I was then able to access the ps3, but an unwanted side effect was that all wireless devices connected to the dlink did not have internet access. Strangely, the one hard-wired pc did have internet but could not access the dlink config page - I had to use a wireless pc for that.

Since I'm not really a network pro, I think I'll go back to the way things were with the dlink in the dmz of the 2wire. (The Dlink does have a full suite of hardware firewall settings, btw. The software aspect is a little cream for the coffee, so to speak.) Cat5 is cheap, so I'll just run a line from the ps3 to the dlink parallel to the existing one running from the 2wire. I was kind of hoping to avoid that, but I guess not.

Now if the 2wire had good dual band wireless N instead of only G, i would probably eliminate the dlink completely. Maybe it will come sometime in the future, like when we get internet access to our MTS PVR's...! ;)
 

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Sadly, the "upgrade" from 802.11g to a dual-band 802.11n router would require physically new hardware.

The upgrade to web acess to PVR settings is a software upgrade.
 

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I understand that, but it would be nice to see both features! :D

FWIW, I ran a new line of cat5 from my Dlink to the PS3. All is working fine. :p
 

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Not sure if this is relevant in this thread but I'll ask. My brother recently had Ultimate installed (upgraded from regular MTS TV) and i was wondering what kind of connection cables come with each receiver? In other words do they generally come with any component or HDMI cables? The reason I ask is that the pvr receiver was hooked up with component cables that were left over from the original install and the other HDTV was hooked up via component but with cheap composite red, white and yellow cables. I know my Bell receivers came with both component and HDMI/DVI cables. Seems strange that MTS would not supply any kind of HD cables with these new receivers?
 

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They only include component cables (1 set of thick red/green/blue for picture and 1 set of thin red/white/yellow for audio) :( Supposedly sometimes picture will be slightly better with component over HDMI for some reason.

And they sent out a memo saying that some HDTV's will give a "HDCP" error when hooked up through HDMI. I've seen it twice I think.

On some of the really small HDTV's I just use the thin one's for picture AND sound. IMO, it won't make a difference there, plus the thick ones are harder to tuck in when it's in a kids room or on top of a fridge, for example.

** Some customers claim their friends were GIVEN HDMI cables by the installer. If that's the case, the installer is putting their a__ on the line because MTS charges $19.95 for HDMI cables (it will be added to your bill). I am not giving these away as I don't want to lose my job. I have mouths to feed and a mortgage to pay, so I won't let anyone pressure me into giving them one. Some people are such cheapskates.
 

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I'm running all 3 of my sets with just HDMI cables. No problems here. I turned down the installer's offer to provide the cables at $20 each. Went to Superstore in Brandon and got 5 of them for $7 each. I'll live with that... :cool:
 
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