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Discussion Starter #1
I need to move my dish down lower to where brick is located. Having siding done plus it makes it easier to access. I might also try my Dish Pro Quad LNB at the time also.

Question, what plastic inserts/screws/drill bits, etc. do I need for mounting to brick?
 

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I've seen Tapcons used. I prefer to use masonry anchor bolts. They are bolts with a sleeve that expands as the nut is tightened. Plastic anchors are not good for heavy duty use or where temperatures fluctuate.
 

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Agreed, stay away from plastic in brick for anything this big. When securing the Tapcons, or whatever, make sure you drill into good bricks, as cracked bricks or mortar will not hold something as large as a dish, which can generate a huge moment (force) when the wind blows, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just came back from the local electronics store. They also mentioned Tapcons from Home Depot.

When I go to Home Depot, what exactly do I look for size wise? Do they come with screws/bolts? Different sizes? Drill bit size?

Thx.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also, I am still so confused on this part... braiding and foil. At the electronics store, they said to cut it right off (actually the stripper took it off anyway), but all I hear elsewhere... is to fold the braiding back. Now this is with RG59/U (for CCTV), RG6 and BNC connectors as well.

Which is it? I just picked up a a RG59/RG6 compression tool (Thomas & Betts Snap-n-Seal), Xcelite RG59/RG6 wire stripper, and a bunch of Snap-n-Seal connectors and want to get it right. I can't stand these screw on connectors I have been using all along.

Thx.
 

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If the stripping tool is set wrong, it will cut off the braid. If correct, I just fold it back, then push the SnS fittings on.

A Box of 1 3/4" Tapcons will ship with a correctly sized Drill bit. Or should......lol

ALWAYS mount into brick, do not be tempted to use the mortar, it will fail eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So you are saying that the braiding is actually NEEDED then? I don't get it... the guy at the store (young but seemed knowledgable) said to cut it right off. I can understand the 'foil' coming right off the inner white part though, and have seen many vids doing just that.

Thx.
 

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I leave it on and fold it back, as I say, other stripping tools take it right off.

Guess it does not matter, that was just how I was shown, many years ago and that is how I still do it, even if it is wrong.....lol
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok, thanks. Here is where I want to mount it... just below the motion light to the left. I guess I could also mount on the fence to the left (might even be easier?). Ya I know the sidng is pathetic... that is what is being redone and why the dish needs to move. I want eye level access to it anyway, so the lower the better :)



 

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With compression connectors, fold the braid back. There are specific lengths for the exposed conductor, insulator and braid. Instructions should be in with the tool. Some tools have the lengths marked on the tool itself. Generally, remove about 3/4" of the outer insulation, remove all but about 1/4" of the exposed braid, foil and insulation, fold the braid back, slide the connector over the end as far as it will go and crimp.

Tapcons are masonry screws. HD has packages with a drill bit included. You want 3/16" to 1/4" diameter by about 2" to 2-1/2" long for a small dish. Drill a hole and screw them in. (You probably want a hammer drill to make the hole and screw gun with hex socket attachment for the Tapcon.) Like I said, the masonry anchor bolts are preferable. After the hole is drilled, they can be inserted and tightened with an ordinary wrench.
 

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Yep, that looks like a straight forward move down the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Below is what is says on the back of the cable stripper package. No mention of folding back braiding.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
After trying the stripper, all it left was the foil wrap, and a few braids which fell off easy (perhaps I turned the stripper too many times). I then removed the foil easily, and this is the end product. And this is incorrect?? Why is braiding needed to be folded back? Grounding? This is RG-6/U. tx

 

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My understanding is that by folding the braid back and then pushing the Connector into the cable over the central Dielectric, when crimped it will be much harder to pull off the cable, thus giving better electrical connectivity and strength.
 

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The braid is required to make a good ground connection and to secure the connector. (G22, See the picture in your previous post.) I've seen a few ends that did not have the braid folded back and they were no good. I also like to leave a little more exposed conductor. It's easy to trim after the connector is on but not as easy to lengthen. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Not sure what you mean by 'never get them on'. This SnS connector fit very very tight w/o the braiding back (from the last pic above I posted).

Just came back from HD, and picked up a few Tapcon concrete screws. I assume these are the correkt cones. I did not see any Masonry Anchor Screw, although they were prob around somewhere. These Tapcons have a cheap looking head for a socket, and also have a slot for flat head screwdriver. Sad.

http://173.201.24.200/images/misc/DSC00561.JPG
 

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I meant by leaving the braid on and not folding it back it would be nearly impossible to get an SNS6 connector on properly. Cutting the braid off is not the correct method.

You have the correct Tapcons. I always use the biggest diameter available.
 

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Tapcons are masonry screws. HD has packages with a drill bit included. You want 3/16" to 1/4" diameter by about 2" to 2-1/2" long for a small dish. Drill a hole and screw them in. (You probably want a hammer drill to make the hole and screw gun with hex socket attachment for the Tapcon.) Like I said, the masonry anchor bolts are preferable. After the hole is drilled, they can be inserted and tightened with an ordinary wrench.
Any masonry anchor bolts recommendation? Thanks..
 

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I never use Anchor Bolts, there is not enough leeway if they are not accurately installed.

With Tapcons, etc there is always a little room to move the Foot to ensure 100% accuracy for the mast being mounted Vertically.
 
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