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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Best price was $1249 and that on sale. My old Samsung plasma R4252C packed it in yesterday. Now the old Samy is a 720P and the new Pany is 1080P. After one day of playing around with the Pany there is NO way I can say this has a better HD pic than my old 720P Samy. Right now I am leaning toward the old 720P having a better pic. Time will tell. Was amazed at the weight differance....the old 42" Samy was 30 lbs heavier than the new larger Pany........Neither one of them have been calibrated and to my laymans eyes and friends eyes the old Samy looked superb. I'm just saying that right now the extra 4-5 hundred $ I payed because it is a 1080P instead of the 720P could have been a waste of money. I'm wondering how the old 720Ps would compare to the new ones? I'm betting the old 720Ps would outperform the new 720ps because the companys made them that way so they could charge more for the so called 1080Ps?........thoughts?:confused:
 

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Picture quality rarely has anything to do with resolution, assuming you're sitting at a reasonable viewing distance.

When you say neither set is calibrated, do you mean they're both still on a default picture mode (like Standard or Cinema)? If so, the Samsung may just have better default settings. Also, you're familiar with the Samsung, which may be why you perceive the picture quality to be better.

So many variables...
 

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If you take the time to view the instructions that come with/in the DVD and perhaps view some background information (like the video links in the FAQ), then you should be able to improve the picture on your HDTV. Simply switching away from the default vivid/dynamic mode to something like Custom or THX should already improve the picture quality.
 

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Any DVD player will do the trick, assuming you use a standard setup DVD and not a BD. You'll probably find Custom quite a bit brighter than Cinema. If you want brighter go with Custom and cut back the Contrast/Picture a bit perhaps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After calling a couple of HDTV retailers in town looking for a calibration DVD the last guy asked me what TV I had. He walked me through initial set up and turned off the Video NR which was on and its on Cinema and after playing around with the contrast, brightness, color, tint and sharpness came up with a pretty good picture. He also turned me on to a fairly local ISF Tech that will calibrate my TV for $300. Right now i'm happy with it. Thanks 57:D
 

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You don't need a THX system to use the THX Optimizer.

I believe the newest setup disc is Spears & Munsil, but it's Blu-ray only, IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
cooper....you recomended DVE yet back in 09 you critisize it?...Am I missing something?

"I have the HD-DVD version, and unlike most members here, I found it to be a waste of time & money (though I paid $20+ for my copy). The calibration disc itself is not HD, it's difficult to navigate, instructions are unnecessarily complicated, and much of the technical jargon is beyond the average consumer (even those who do their homework and try to be educated about this stuff). "
 

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I'm not giving it my recommendation; I'm simply giving you information about the product should you choose to use it.

Again, if you find a DVD with the THX Optimizer (perhaps you already own one?), that's a good, easy, and inexpensive start.
 

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$600 is far too much for a calibration. I sure hope the calibrator somehow misinterpreted what you were asking for.

DVE on DVD will be suitable to align basic picture controls and that's it. The tutorial is fairly easy to follow for a novice. I don't like using THX Optomizers on DVDs as it can slightly differ disc to disc. Make sure your DVD player's black level value is "0" (darker) rather than 7.5 (lighter) if using the same input (or video memory) for HD cable/satellite. You want to make sure black level reproduction is correct for both signal types. If only watching SD cable/satellite, then adjust black with setup (7.5). I can't remember the Oppo's menu system off hand...but it should be in there somewhere.
 

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No. That's not what I'm talking about. Somewhat difficult to explain, but here it goes...

As part of design, composite NTSC video had black levels pegged at 7.5IRE. Once component video became available to consumers (on DVD), a signal of 0IRE could be used to set black level (this corresponds with a particular voltage level). White is 100IRE.

For us, the end goal is to calibrate the display with the desired black level that will match all sources unless multiple memories are available - because black levels could be different depending on the source.

So, if setting up your display using a test pattern with a 0IRE output, but the rest of your TV signals have black setup signal at 7.5IRE, they will look very washed out.

On the other hand, if you set black level using a test pattern in a signal using 7.5IRE as the start, any incoming signal that starts at 0IRE will lose all of it's shadow detail and look too dark and black.

My advice would be to set up your TV using your player's defaults. Check with satellite/cable to make sure it doesn't look washed out/crushed using that setting. If all is well, you are good! If it isn't, you'll need to readjust.
 
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