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CM4221HD Hardware Hacks

218113 Views 359 Replies 88 Participants Last post by  coffeecastle
My secret little CM4221HD hack.

[note: this hack has been tried and true over a dozen times]

Just thought I should share something with those of you who are stuck on the performance benefits of that old reliable CM4221 antenna design.

Here’s a little hack that I have been doing for a while now in order to beef up the new CM4221HD antenna design.

It appears that whoever it was at PCT in China that was responsible for the re-design of the new CM4221HD was more concerned with the cosmetic values of this newly designed antenna than it’s overall performance values.

There has been some concern among many about the lacking performance of the new CM4221HD antennas as compared to the old CM4221 antenna design. There are a few simple revisions that can be made to the CM4221HD that will restore those overall performance values and restore the familiar characteristics that the old CM4221 antenna had.

‘V’ ELEMENT OBSTRUCTIONS:
There are some cute little 1” plastic covers that hide a portion of the elements at the connection points of each ‘V’ element on each bay. Remove these 8 cosmetic plastic caps and just toss them away, as they actually shorten the overall calculated length of each ‘V’ element by almost 2”.

RESIZE THE REFLECTOR GRID WIDTH:
The next thing that will need some adjustment is the width of the 24” wide reflector grid. The new CM4221HD reflector grid is 24” wide and the old CM4221 is only 20” wide. To do this, just carefully remove the plastic side retainers from all of those grid rods. Then cut exactly 2” off each of the aluminium grid rods and then reinstall the plastic side retainers.

BALUN TO BOOM CLEARANCE:
The flat bars that the balun box is connected to are too close to the boom, so simply pull the balun assembly outwards and make sure that those flat bars are at least ½” away from the boom. I believe this may have just been an oversight that should have been mentioned within the antenna assembly instruction sheet.
[I believe this inward positioning of the balun was intended to accommodate the slim packaging dimensions and to reduce the risk of shipping damages]

You will now have the same basic dimensional and performance characteristics of the original CM4221 antenna design.
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4
CM4221HD Modifications Measured

I was curious how the new CM4221HD compared to the original CM4221, but didn't have the urge to make any tests until ota_canuck started this thread. I bought a 4221HD and made some measurements with my Sadelco DisplayMax 5000 signal level meter (SLM).

TEST CONDITIONS:
OTA signals are constantly changing in strength, so I knew that I wouldn't get reliable readings if I made measurements before and after modifications. And, I don't have a constant level output signal generator to make antenna range tests like mclapp, so I decided to make rapid A/B comparisons between my 4221 as a standard antenna and the 4221HD as the test antenna. I found two suitable open areas for field testing, one was a large shopping center parking lot with the tree line about 200 yards away, the other was a clear LOS shot across water to the transmitters. I tried both, and the path across water had more stable signals (except when a boat went by!). What would be ideal is to set up on a flat roof of a tall building with LOS, but I don't have access to that here.

I mounted both antennas on the roof rack of my car; see the attachment.

The tests were as follows:
1. Compared the stock CM4221HD to the stock CM4221
2. Compared the CM4221HD with caps removed to the CM4221
3. Compared the CM4221HD with the phasing line strips flipped to the CM4221, without removing the balun box, which moved the strips away from the boom and put the balun box on the rear side of the strips

After looking at the numbers for test No. 3, I saw that the high channels weren't doing very well. I examined how the balun box was attached to the strips and noticed that although the rivets that attach the balun to the strips were centered between the two inner bays (point A), the effective electrical connection was not centered (point B). This meant that the two inner bays were not being fed in phase, and therefore all four bays were out of phase, which would reduce the gain.



I added nylon spacers between the strips and the lugs on the balun box using the 8-32 hardware that I had, moving the balun to the front. To duplicate the mfg method, you could use metal spacers and long aluminum pop rivets. If you decide to use the spacers, flat strips would probably be OK, but I haven't made measurements. Inserting a thin insulating strip between the two wouldn't be sufficient, because it would act like a coupling capacitor at UHF:



4. Compared 4221HD with spacers to the CM4221

Here are the test results in table form. I have converted the measurements so that they all have the same value as the first test for the reference antenna while retaining the differences between the reference antenna and the test antenna to emphasize the gain (or loss) after each modification. This allows all tests to be combined, hence the notation "relative dBmV" in the chart. The channel numbers are the real RF channels, not virtual:

Code:
RF  Stock  Stock  dB Gain  No Caps Gain   Flip Bal Gain    Spacers Gain
CH  4221   4221HD  over    4221HD   dB     4221HD   dB     4221HD   dB
    dBmV    dBmV   4221     dBmV            dBmV            dBmV

16  14.3    15.1   +0.8     16.0   +1.7     17.1   +2.8     18.4   +4.1
29  17.0    17.2   +0.2     18.4   +1.4     18.9   +1.9     18.9   +1.9
31  17.2    16.3   -0.9     18.2   +1.0     19.5   +2.3     18.7   +1.5
33  17.4    16.9   -0.5     19.0   +1.6     19.3   +1.9     19.0   +1.6
40  15.9    16.0   +0.1     16.3   +0.4     16.4   +0.5     17.6   +1.7
46  11.7    12.0   +0.3     12.2   +0.5     13.2   +1.5     15.4   +3.7
50  17.6    18.7   +1.1     19.2   +1.6     17.6   +0.0     19.4   +1.8

And as a chart:




CONCLUSIONS:
My measurements confirm the claims by ota_canuck for the caps and the balun flip. I really can't explain the cap results, because they should be transparent to RF, unless the plastic contains a metallic compound as a UV stabilizer. The balun flip, of course, is obvious because it moves the strips away from the boom.

I didn't do anything to the reflector, because it would be hard to reverse that modification. As already mentioned, reducing its width will broaden the horizontal beamwidth which will allow the antenna to be aimed between two transmitter azimuths if you don't want to rotate your antenna. There is another possible reason that it might help certain channels. There are two types of reflectors, one is resonant (as in a yagi) and the other is non-resonant like a wire mesh screen. For certain channels the reflector rods of the CM4221HD can be resonant at 3/2 wavelength which would put the voltage null at the center vertical support, making the rod seem as if it were insulated from any support.

Because accurate antenna measurements are difficult to make even with a professional test range, I can't make any claim about a certain amount of gain for each improvement. I am, however, confident that CM made two modifications to their new design that compromised its performance: pushing the phasing line strips back so that it would fit in the box was a bad idea, as was attaching the balun box electrically off-center to make it easier to connect the coax.

Even though it is possible to make signal strength measurements to compare antennas, the piece of equipment that determines which is ultimately better is the tuner. Tuners vary in their response not only to signal strength but also signal quality, which is why I like to make measurements of sensitivity and margin-to-dropout at the "cliff" using an attenuator.

Attachments

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Flipped Baluns Need Spacers!

Awesome work, rabbit73, and thanks for putting it up here. I'm glad you identified the spacer requirement for the balun connectors. Nice catch!

For clarity, our readers need to remember that the antenna marked CM4221 (without HD in the name) is the earlier 4-Bay model from Channel Master that is no longer on the market, while the CM4221HD is the currently available model.
Awsome and rewarding test info rabbit73! You may have shed some new light on the importance of balun placement that is worthy of further study on various antenna designs.

[one note about your mounting: the antennas may have passively influenced each other somewhat during the testing, however whatever influence there may have been was maintained throughout the tests.]

I'm looking at your balun re-centering and the added standoff result, Now you've got me thinkin again about something I tried with the Stealth Hawk. When I put the balun out in front of the SH element it seemed to add some directionality, but I never persued that theory since then. After seeing your result with the balun adjustments, I'm thinking whether it's the centering or the standoff that has made the gain. [simply flipping or pulling the balun forward helps gain, so with your added standoff we see more gain] Wonder if someone can model the idea of balun 'distance vs centering' on a 4bay design. We have found that with the aperture antenna designs, you can adjust the frequency range up or down by adjusting the feedpoint up or down. It would be interesting to see the effect the 'popped forward' balun distances have on beamwidth and forward gain figures. I do recall seeing one of the older 4bay antenna designs that had the balun set significantly forward away from the elements, and at the time I believe it was questioned if the balun wasn't some sort of amplified gismo.
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I can see 2 new findings in the last diagram (at least, this hasn't been discussed yet):

1) Stock 4221HD (Chinese version of 4221) is not necessarily a step back from 4221. Stock 4221HD has better gain on 4 channels, and lower gain on Ch 31 and 33 .

2) Same Ch 31 and 33 react negatively to spacers - slight decrease in gain - though other 4 channels show significant increase in gain (one shows no change), so overall it's probably worth doing, unless these Ch31 and 33 are THE best content and are already too low in signal.

Again confirmed that removing caps and flipping the balun is worth doing in any location (and here it shows that it is worth doing for all channels).

Those channel numbers - are they virtual numbers (i.e. numbers in TV guide, usually labeled with .1 for digital) or actual transmitter channels?
stampeder & ota_canuck:

Thank you for your kind words. It makes me feel that the testing was worth the effort; it was also a good learning experience for me. I added the word original to the 4221.

alm:
Those channel numbers - are they virtual numbers (i.e. numbers in TV guide, usually labeled with .1 or for digital) or actual transmitter channels?
The channel numbers are real RF channels, not virtual. When I use virtual numbers, I always use the decimal form. Thanks for calling it to my attention that they might be misinterpreted; I have edited my previous post for clarification.

Best regards,
rabbit
Thanks for the tests rabbit73.

Points of discussion

How tall are those nylon spacers?

I believe you used galvanized hardware. Any thoughts on whether using brass hardware would improve things (better conductivity)? I see a balun spacing test in my near future...
Thanks for the tests rabbit73.
You're welcome; I had a lot of fun doing them.
How tall are those nylon spacers?
They are 1/2 inch. The space is a little more than that because of the nut and washer below it, but I think 1/2 inch would be enough. In my case, the connection is made by the screw.
I believe you used galvanized hardware.
Yes, the hardware is zinc plated; I used what I had on hand to make the test. If I were to make it permanent for outdoor use, I would probably use aluminum or zinc galvanized steel spacers.
Any thoughts on whether using brass hardware would improve things (better conductivity)? I see a balun spacing test in my near future...
I don't think using brass is a good idea because it isn't as compatible with aluminum as zinc. The orginal CM4221 used zinc electro-galvanized steel for the elements and aluminum wire for the vertical phasing lines. 300ohm is our resident expert on the compatibility of metals:
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=769141&postcount=7

Many hams and manufacturers use stainless steel hardware and all-stainless clamps with aluminum tubing to build antennas. That's a no-no according to the chart, but I think it depends upon which alloy is being used.
Any thoughts on whether using brass hardware would improve things (better conductivity)?
If you have corrosion at the connection between two incompatible dissimilar metals, that is much more of a problem than the inherent conductivity of the metals.
rabbit73 great posts with the testing of the mods on the CM4221HD, don't mean to sound greedy but i was really hoping that you included the results for trimming off part of the reflector, since that's the only mod i haven't done, i just wondered what kind of issues or gains you could get using your little science experiment. Oh well i guess i'll have to just cut them down and see how it goes. Just alittle worried about losing any forward gain because i'm in the deep fringe for buffalo and don't want to loose and signal strength but i'd like to be able to get Toronto and Buffalo without having to spin the rotor.
brantford bill:
rabbit73 great posts with the testing of the mods on the CM4221HD
Thanks!
...i was really hoping that you included the results for trimming off part of the reflector, since that's the only mod i haven't done...
Sorry to disappoint you, I want to make more measurements with the original unmodified reflector.
Just alittle worried about losing any forward gain because i'm in the deep fringe for buffalo and don't want to loose and signal strength but i'd like to be able to get Toronto and Buffalo without having to spin the rotor.
Because of the relatively narrow beamwidth of the antenna, I think it's unrealistic to expect to be able to get both without a rotor by aiming between them. Off-axis aim tends to increase multipath problems, because it makes the ratio of desired signal to undesired worse. The only way to be sure is to try it, like ota_canuck did.



Increased gain and wider beamwidth are mutually exclusive; there is no free lunch.

The exception is for a collinear array that has high feedline losses. It is possible to increase the gain without making the beamwidth narrower if you can reduce the feedline losses. (I'm thinking of the original 4228.)

I quote the ARRL Antenna Book, 18th Edition:
Large broadside collinear antennas can be checked for excessive phasing-line losses by comparing the gain computed from the radiation patterns with the direct-measured gain. It seems paradoxical, but it is indeed possible to build a large array with a very narrow beamwidth indicating high gain, but actually having very low gain because of losses in the feed distribution system.
This is, possibly, one of the reasons why the 4221HD does so well when compared with the 4228HD.
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Increased gain and wider beamwidth are mutually exclusive; there is no free lunch.
Ding, ding, ding! This is a very key point. Remember that an antenna by itself is a passive device. There's no more energy coming out of the structure into the feed line in total than what comes into it from the air. My favorite visual is a balloon.

An ideal isotropic antenna has a gain of 0 dBi (by definition) and can be visualized as a round balloon. More complex antennas have positive gain, but only in a given direction. This is like squeezing the round balloon in certain directions, causing the balloon to expand in others. Remember that gain is a comparison to reference, so the "gain" (directivity, to be precise) of the balloon is the ratio of the distance of the squeezed balloon's wall from the center point compared to the distance of the round balloon's wall from the center point at a given angle.

Check out the 3-d plots of gain within the threads of this sub-forum and you'll see what I mean.
I have been lurking in this site for a long time now. Have used several of your tips and ideas for my ota setup. This site is absolutely priceless. I've been using the 4221hd unhacked for just over a year in south Ajax with pretty good results, just a little disappointed that the Canadian channels were coming in so weak. Turning the antenna would bring them in better but at the sacrifice of most US channels. Spent the morning performing Stampeders hacks. Very modest results till I trimmed the reflectors. I got an average of 15% increase in Canadian channels and 30% on US. Very good in my books! Tried turning the antenna to even out reception but ended up right back on old mark. Happy with what I have. Sorry, very long winded I know. So on to my two questions> I cracked 1 of the plastic end caps on the reflector, but not in 1/2. Taped it up with electrical tape. Will this cause any problems? Lastly, when you guys flipped the balun do you just let the coax run down the front of the antenna assembly or between the reflector and balun? Thanks in advance.
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Well i finally did it. I Did the final hack on the 4221HD, the litteral hack of the reflector and i'm glad to say the results are very good. Like i was wondering in my previous post #229 i was wanting to get both T.O. and Buffalo, previousy i'd have to turn the rotor about 20 degrees one way or the other. But after the "hack" i can now turn a sweet spot and watch both at the same time! Oh ya and non of the channels have lost any strength, it seems like they've gained strength so mission accomplished. Thanks alot for the advise!
Mesh over rods for increased f/b ratio?

Would tying mess to the back of the stock 4221hd antenna increase f/b ratio? I am in an awkward position where 90% of my strong channels are 170deg away from the 2 weak channels I am trying to pull in. I have 2 ganged 4221 hd but I think the on pointed to Sarnia is getting some backside signal off of my powerhouse channels and causing multipath/ghosting. So if a tight mesh or a solid aluminum sheet (attic install) would help the f/b ratio, it might be worth a try.
Would tying mess to the back of the stock 4221hd antenna increase f/b ratio? I am in an awkward position where 90% of my strong channels are 170deg away from the 2 weak channels I am trying to pull in. I have 2 ganged 4221 hd but I think the on pointed to Sarnia is getting some backside signal off of my powerhouse channels and causing multipath/ghosting. So if a tight mesh or a solid aluminum sheet (attic install) would help the f/b ratio, it might be worth a try.
Check post #356 under the Thread "OTA Reception Results/ON-Ottawa, Vanier, Gloucester, Orleans-OTA"
A while back I did hacks ( removing the plastic, and flipping the balun simply upside down), my main concern is VHF-HI and Beam width, The CM4221HD is working as a great antenna pointed at Buffalo, but some weaker Toronto channels can pixalate I.E city, global and Omni, my VHF plans will be just get a simple UHF/VHF combiner (loss should be 0.5db) and a dedicated VHF hi antenna. I was thinking about the SBGH or DBGH, but since I am doing good with my hacked CM4221HD, I guess this is all I need. The only hack I didn't do is the mesh hack which I plan to saw off for beam width. My question is exactly how much in millimetres should I even cut off from each side and what kind of Beam width would I expect to gain? Also how much forward gain might I lose, not to mention the 0.5 from adding a VHF antenna?

I think this is the smartest way, as to get some VHF gain, I would have to bust my, you know what making a bigger reflector and losing beam width , which is pointless to me, a
dedicated VHF-hi and dedicated UHF antenna is all I need.
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I did the last mesh hack, is the measurement ok?

I measured and the reflector is 18 inches , so I cut it 2 inches shorter than 20 is that fine?
I assume you are working with a 4221HD, with a rod reflector [not a mesh screen?]

The original 4221[not HD] had a 20" wide mesh screen.
The 4221HD has a 24" wide rod reflectors.

Yes, cutting down the reflector rod width expands the overall beamwidth of the 4221HD antenna. Why Channel Master went with a 24" reflector on the HD antenna is still a mystery to me! I have experimented with cutting the 4221HD reflector rods down to 20", 18" and 16" widths and the beamwidth seems to hold about the same results. I did find that with a 16" reflector, the antenna becomes somewhat bidirectional as it loses some F/B gain ratio. I don't think you will lose significant forward gain though unless you completely remove the reflector. In theory, a narrower reflector should/would hamper VHF reception, however in my experiments I've seen no evidence of VHF reception loses.

In the long run, when Canada transitions in August, it may become necessary to have a dedicated VHF antenna if you are in a fringe area. If a wider UHF beamwidth is beneficial to your reception, then the narrower reflector modification is the right thing to do.
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yea the beamwidth is what I need, 2 VHF channels 1 35 miles away another 9 miles and LOS, So I accidently cut it to 18'' the rods but I am looking for beamwidth yes, also I did the other 2 hacks, I think removing the plastic and making the V's longer should boost lower UHF and maybe some VHF, no? I think though it should give more beamwidth than 20" by a little, The reflector just looks a tiny bit bigger than the V whiskers. I am assuming this would be more beneficial for tropo with being able to get more signals from different directions, I need direction from 3 cities from 1 antenna so I did the beamwidth hack and I should still have the good forward gain from the other 2 hacks.

lol I measured better again and it's almost 19'' with 1 side having a 0.4 inch advantage or 1 cm, I guess it's no big deal lol?

The 4221HD is done all 3 hacks and a 19'' rod reflector, I guess I should be good even VHF because the VHF stations are still in
analog before they go digital and on the roof or pointing out a windows CHCH analog hamilton 35 miles comes in almost perfect.I
checked with the hack and it was good on analog 11.
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Made a mistake on the 3rd hack, need help.

I don't wanna throw away this antenna for another CM4221HD, but here is what happened. I did the first hack removing the plastic pieces and then the second one I flipped the balun ( very easy). Then the 3rd Mesh hack I used metal cutting scissors and I screwed up because the plastic things won't fit anymore and the ends are very sharp and one rod is kinda bent. I measured that I cut 5 inches from 24 to 19 across. But with the sharp metal ends and plastic parts not able to fit, I guess this antenna is not good anymore. Do you recommend that I could use the antenna still if I put hockey tape around the sharp metal ends, or some kind of rubber to make it ( don't know which is best) softer at the ends? Or should I get a new antenna?
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