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I use the Snapstream softwares too. So far, I burn my intros and trailers into a DVD ISO that I play before the main feature, but it's not automated and it bugs me, but it's the best I can do so far. I asked the author of the "DVD Library" plugin if he could implement a new feature for intros/trailers.

I'll post the blender file tonight when I get home from work. And use the link below to get an AC3 file of the Fox intro soundtrack that you can merge with your animation.

http://bucketfoot.com/temp/Foxac3.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Ceiling mounting my Hitachi PJTX100... what to do?

Well I got my seats, mounted my screen in the location of its final destination, and temporarily mounted my projector. Here's a pic of the mockup.



As you can see, the projector is mounted but I'm not sure if this is the best way. By this I mean that my Hitachi PJTX100 has only three threaded mount points. Moreover, the lens is to one side of the projector which makes my use of a Draper Accuset universal projector mount interesting. Essentially, I have the mount brackets positioned so that the center/pivot point is in the center of the lens. I did this so that I can align the lens exactly to the center of the screen. What bugs me is that it's not the center of gravity for the projector hence alot of stress will be put on the ball joint of the mount.



The documentation doesn't really say where the center of gravity is nor do I feel like dangling my projector to find out. My assumption is that its in the center of the projector. Any suggestions onto where to put the pivot point. My first guess is to center it on the projector to put the least stress on the ball joint except down straight and offset the mount pole to center the lens on the screen. However, if I do this and change projectors in the future, the mount would be off center. This means that the mounting flange may move... which is a problem since I have to drill a two inch hole for cables.



Since safety (ie. no projector falling on someone's head) is important, I'm curious what other people have done for their ceiling mounts/supports, hush boxes, and/or cable routing.

Cheers,
Kaoru
 

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Some random thoughts.

Don't worry about changing PJs in the future. Chances are the throw ratio or drop ratio will be different and you will have to go back to scratch positioning it anyway. The horizontal offset of the lens will be minimal. Does your PJ has a lens offset feature? Not keystone.

That mount looks pretty complicated. Mine is about 3 pieces and luckily it was designed for the PJ thus it is centered on the chassis and balanced. But not centred on the lens. I am sure the metal ball-joint can take the 10 or 15 pounds of torque. Do you have reason to think it might be more? I installed my PJ first then installed the screen as the rough outline I had on the wall needed to be tweaked.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Jake said:
...snip...
That mount looks pretty complicated. Mine is about 3 pieces and luckily it was designed for the PJ thus it is centered on the chassis and balanced. But not centred on the lens. I am sure the metal ball-joint can take the 10 or 15 pounds of torque. Do you have reason to think it might be more? I installed my PJ first then installed the screen as the rough outline I had on the wall needed to be tweaked.
My thoughts exactly in terms of complicated hardware... you should see all the left over parts I have (and it still look complicated :D ). Actually, it is a bit of a concern since that many screws/threads make for multiple failure points. Alot of people don't realize that threaded bolts/nuts can loosen/unscrew by hot/cold expansion cycling. I've had a couple times where a glass dome from a ceiling light fell even though the retaining nut was well secured. It just worked itself loose due to heating/cooling. One time it nearly hit my daughter's head so I've become paranoid about these things. I will be putting on a safety cable... one of my other hobbies is building high power rockets so I know how to do DIY retaining cables (small & lightweight) that can withstand a tremendous amount of force (a falling projector is nothing compared to a 2 kg rocket deaccelerating abrutly when its parachute deploys prematurely; I've seen steel links and 1" tublar nylon ripped apart :D ).

After putting some thought into it, I'm going to build an enclosed box that will fit in between the joists and have the appropriate outlets for cable, power, etc. Then I will have two angle brackets that will securely support a cross member which the mount will be attached to. Since the cables can be routed through the support pole (see pic in prev. post) I can adjust the location of the projector easily to center it for the screen. For vertical adjustment a new pole length is all that is required (cheap 2" threaded steel pipe from HD). Projector distance from screen can only be adjusted marginally but that is not much of a concern.

Cheers,
Kaoru
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Black Ice Theater get THX Select 2...

After having mocked up my HT (and been using it :D ), I got curious on how it would sound with full blown audio setup. However, I didn't want (or more correctly my wife didn't want me) to disassemble the components in my family room (where my Sony AV receiver et al resides)... I resigned myself to continue with my old Sony (stereo) receiver, a pair of Merek (Radio Shack) tower speakers (which are relatively new) and my XBox 360 as video source. As luck would have it, my wife was talking to some family/friends showing off the theater's construction. Somehow they got invited for a movie night (even though it's only a mockup!)... I was all for the movie night but I causally mentioned that the sound sucks and it won't be really practical. To my surprise, my wife says "do what you need to fix it... but I still want to watch my shows". I say that all I need is a AV receiver and some cheap speakers... She's says "if it will fix it then go ahead". It's the little things that make you appreciate a loved one!

Long story short... I researched AV receivers (with the limited budget I have) and settled on the Pioneer VSX-1015TX-K (the best bang for the buck). Only problem is trying to find a dealer. No luck at the local electronics shop (Bleeker) since they don't carry Pioneer. FS and BB are a bust... they only have the VSX-815 (and not very much bang for the buck). After going onto the Pioneer site, I discovered a dealer Signature Audio Video in Stittsville (outskirts of Ottawa). I didn't raise my hopes since I wasn't to sure about it. However, I swung by and I was impressed. I was greeted with a great showroom filled with components/products for home theater and recreation rooms. But on top of that, I told them what I wanted and they had four in stock. Moreover, the salesman was thoughtful and we had a great conversation (even provided some tips; they do custom home theaters). Besides the great service, he gave me a deal on the 1015... $525 bucks... suffice to say I went home happy with a 1015 tucked under my arm.

What makes the 1015 a winner... certified THX Select 2 7.1 audio for starters. Then add component video with three *assignable* inputs and one output. All the standard composite/S-video inputs but *are up-converted to component* video. Then add the MACC; having a receiver auto adjust levels/setup is just icing on top of the cake. Immediately I had to go a get speakers... Well, the fomer Radio Shack (now the Source) use to have cheaper (but half-decent) speakers. I ended up with two pairs of KLH 100 bookself speaker at ~$50 a pair (clearance). Add my two towers, a spare Celestion speaker (for center), and my Celestion subwoofer (I don't need it the family room for TV :D ).

I set everything up with 300' of 12 gauge inwall speaker wire (Home Depot). Kicked off the MACC from my sweet spot, threw in my Revenge of the Sith DVD, and was *totally blown away* with the sound. There was no comparison between the Pioneer and my Sony 5.1 setup upstairs. Actually, I haven't been to a real theater that could match the sound. Now to be fair... I don't have walls yet so time will tell if the construction will maintain the quality. I certainly have a baseline now for comparison.

Cheers,
Kaoru
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Framing begins... what to do with a foundation crack?

Framing begins!

Well I did my mockup, figured things out, disassembled everything, and begun framing. Some interesting changes to the design like going from a staggered stud wall to a double stud wall. Here's a pic of the framing going up.



Before I can continue framing, I have to do something about a crack in the foundation (which was incorrectly fixed by my builder; they only put mastic on the crack). It's a dry vertical static crack but from a corner of the window where I'm concerned with eventual water penetration. Does anyone have suggestions on filling this crack in a DIY manner? I looked into crack injection but in costs ~$400 and I don't want to spend that much. I also don't want to hide the problem or just caulk it (that's just a waste of time).

Cheers,
Ed.
 

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The crack may get bigger with time as the footing settles. I would get some free estimates to see what they recommend and how much you may be looking at. It should be corrected from the outside since you don't want the moisture pooling behind the patch. If the house is new check with CHMC or your insurance. I though foundations were covered for extended periods.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Fix crack... then Home Theater

Jake said:
The crack may get bigger with time as the footing settles. I would get some free estimates to see what they recommend and how much you may be looking at. It should be corrected from the outside since you don't want the moisture pooling behind the patch. If the house is new check with CHMC or your insurance. I though foundations were covered for extended periods.
Been down that path before... a new home owner's warranty only covers *structural* cracks (ie. horizontal, hydrostatic, and/or dynamic/moving et al type cracks) that can fit a quarter into. Hairline cracks don't count... neither does water seepage (unless it's caused by improper weeping tiles or other defects). My crack is a static (doesn't change) vertical crack (most likely caused by inconsistant curing of the concrete). My house doesn't settle since it sits on solid rock... they had to blast out the foundation that's why my basement is only 7' 8" high; sucks for a home theater. :(

In other words, its $400 bucks or DIY... I'm only fixing to prevent the possibility of water seepage. Anybody seen some products for doing DIY injection? I have in the back of my head, some polyurethane-based filler that is available (uses stick on injection ports)... I'll check Ask Jon Eakes...

It appears that on his website (speciality hardware) he sells "CRACK SEAL CEMENT OR CONCRETE CRACK DO IT YOURSELF REPAIR KIT BY WISE CHOICE" for $89.95 (It's Canadian!). Here's the link http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?Cust=1&CatID=27&ProdID=503&Qty=1 for instructions/details.

All for now...
Kaoru
 

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There is call-in show on 580 CFRA on the weekends. They have various experts on and I seem to recall one guy talking about foundations and these new products on the market. Polyurethane seems to be the ticket. However, I would think getting proper dispersal into a hair-line crack is going to be difficult unless you have some heavy duty pressure in the applicator.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Jake said:
There is call-in show on 580 CFRA on the weekends. They have various experts on and I seem to recall one guy talking about foundations and these new products on the market. Polyurethane seems to be the ticket. However, I would think getting proper dispersal into a hair-line crack is going to be difficult unless you have some heavy duty pressure in the applicator.
Thanks for the advice... I gave a good once over of the instructions and apparently this polyurethane is quite liquid and the way it goes in (via glue-on injection ports using a high quality caulking gun) seems practical/doable. Since my crack is 1-2mm (slightly larger than a hairline), won't get larger/move (unless water gets in), no water penetration (yet), and in my best judgement nothing to worry about. Most likely it was created due to inconsistent curing and the construction vibration done when they were building my neighbours foundation (had to jack hammer/backhoe). I will post my experiences since its something that anyone building a HT in the basement may have to contend with. I do *recommend* that anyone unsure about a crack in their foundation should seek expert advice. It could save alot of headaches later on. I've previously determined that my crack(s) are only superficial and my foundation has a membrane and sealant for water proofing so I'm not so worried about seepage. Hence a DIY solution is good for me in my situation.

Cheers,
Kaoru
 

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Discussion Starter #53
SketchUp...

Actually... I did see something about SketchUp being free but I haven't had the chance to install the software. Blender was for more of a visual/real idea of how my HT will look. SU may provide the insight on how to build the riser, stage, doorway, and inwall equipment rack; when I get around to it I'll give it a spin. Thanks for the heads up!

Cheers,
Kaoru
 

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Wow! Very impressive! ... and local to me as well! (Ottawa). Your sunset/snow over the lake pictures in the original post don't look like the Ottawa I know! :)

We've got a few dedicated Ottawa HT enthusiasts that meet every once and a while (last meet was about a month ago at my HT - see my sig for details) - If you're interested PM me and I'll let you know when we meet again. (Maybe in your HT?) :)

Thanks for sharing the pictures ... looking forward to seeing the progress. Very impressive. Part of me wants to go out and buy a new house so that I can redo a dedicated HT from scratch.

Kal
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Stay tuned...

kal said:
Your sunset/snow over the lake pictures in the original post don't look like the Ottawa I know! :) ... Kal
The pictures are from my family's cottage/cabin in Labrador (west)...

Thanks for the comments... my build is progressing although slowly. Hopefully this weekend will see the majority of the framing completed, especially the equipment closet. The equipment closet and inwall rack follows inline with my DIY screen; ie. looks like you spent alot but in reality spent little. I'll post my design/pics for sure... For the rest of the framing to happen I have to repair a crack in the foundation (I just received a DIY injection kit). I also have to move some water pipes so that I can maximize my ceiling height and simplify the framing.

Other tidbits is the change of one staggered stud wall to a double stud wall and the incorporation of sonopan & 1/2" ceiling drywall (purple label = higher density) instead of double drywall & Green Glue (too expensive and hard to get). Haven't decided on RSIC-1 Ext04 (mounted to the joists so that the hat channel bottom is 1/4" below joist bottom) yet... I will only do RCIC clips on the ceiling since the walls are either external (foundation facing) or are isolated (double/staggered studs) already.

Ideas on increasing the STC without increasing the prices ARE more than welcome. Since my mockup, I've noticed the amount of noise traveling through the floor joists from upstairs. Also my daughter is fanatic about being disturbed while doing homework (and she's going to university = no extra money for me :( )

Cheers,
Kaoru
 

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Kaoru said:
Other tidbits is the change of one staggered stud wall to a double stud wall and the incorporation of sonopan & 1/2" ceiling drywall (purple label = higher density) instead of double drywall & Green Glue (too expensive and hard to get). Haven't decided on RSIC-1 Ext04 (mounted to the joists so that the hat channel bottom is 1/4" below joist bottom) yet... I will only do RCIC clips on the ceiling since the walls are either external (foundation facing) or are isolated (double/staggered studs) already.

Ideas on increasing the STC without increasing the prices ARE more than welcome. Since my mockup, I've noticed the amount of noise traveling through the floor joists from upstairs. Also my daughter is fanatic about being disturbed while doing homework (and she's going to university = no extra money for me :( )
How'd you do the mockup? One thing to remember about sound is that it 'leaks' like water. Even the smallest opening will cause your STC to drop dramatically. I guess what I'm trying to say is that you can't just mock up one wall or something and 'listen' for how quiet it is.... you have to seal the room correctly or completely to notice the difference. Ex: If you have 3 walls with staggered studs/double drywall/insulation/resilient channel, and the the 4th is only a drywall on both sides of standard framing, that's the one that's going to let the noise in - you won't notice how 'quiet' the other 3 walls are.

A true room within a room is by far the quietest route to go, but not the cheapest by any means as you probably already know! :) Though you may want to only do this for ceiling (floating ceiling) if you have the headroom. It really sounds like you've done your homework (and probably spent a lot of time on AVS as well) so I doubt there's much help I could give.

Increasing STC's a real b!tch to work with... once you get the walls and ceiling done right you'll notice that the doors aren't up to snuff and you're off spending $1000-2000 on true sound studio doors or doing a double door approach. :)

Anyway, I wish I had your problems! Enjoy the reno!

Kal

My HT
 

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Discussion Starter #57
kal said:
How'd you do the mockup? ... snip ...

A true room within a room is by far the quietest route to go ... snip ...

Kal

My HT
By the mockup I meant that I roughly assembled my seats, equipment, etc. to check sizing, layout, etc. before framing. Since the mockup was done, I ended up using it for a movie night... that's when I noticed how annoying sounds from upstairs can ruin the experience. Also, my daughter has made me aware of how loud and far the sound can go in the house. This gave rise to my concern with STC and my HT design so far.

I've always knew I would frame differently for the HT since I use the same techniques for isolating my furnance room (loud power venter/mechanicals) from the rest of the basement. As it stands now, I have one double stud wall (door will be solid core), the HT screen front-side wall(s) are staggered stud, and the remaining 2 walls are foundation facing hence just standard stud walls. Besides that I'm open as to how to insulate/cover these walls. My first stab is Safe'N'Sound insulation, sonopan sheathing, and 1/2" drywall on top. The only face that is *not* decoupled is the ceiling (hence the idea of RSIC/resilient channel; but I have height issues :( ). I'm not looking for perfect... just reasonable.

Cheers,
Kaoru
 

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I can't help with most of the framing/STC questions but one hint/tip I do give to people that are going to spend thousands on their HT equipment and construction is to spend a couple of thousand on a plan from a pro. So far the only pro I know of that I've heard nothing but good things from is Dennis Erskine. See: www.DesignCinema.com

You give him all your dimensions and info on what you want to do, he gives you full architectural diagrams and a shopping list on how to built it. More importantly, the rooms are designed with accoustics in mind as well with proper RT60 values and the such...

You don't have to go 'fancy'. Most of the Dennis HT's I've seen are fairly simple... the ones on his site are of course the 'fancier' ones with more trim/etc.

Every single person I've ever talked to that spend the thousand or two for Dennis' help has indicated that they would have spend considerably more going the trial and error route. In a way, it's an investment. (Disclaimer: I don't know the guy personally nor do I get any sort of commissions).

If I was ever building from scratch, Dennis is the first person I'd call. I'd still do it all myself, but I'd use his plans to do it right.

Kal

My HT
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Confessions of a HT junkie!

kal said:
... snip... I've heard nothing but good things from is Dennis Erskine. See: www.DesignCinema.com
... snip ...
If I was ever building from scratch, Dennis is the first person I'd call. I'd still do it all myself, but I'd use his plans to do it right.

Kal
I've heard of Design Cinema as well and I have a couple of PDFs from them about HT design floating around... very good pointers. However, I'm the type of person who likes doing things for the enjoyment and learning experience. Suffice to say this is not my first big project that costs alot of money. Case in point I built a heated pool (above ground), pool deck/enclosure 135 sq. ft., and sun deck 240 sq. ft. out of red cedar (PT for structure) by myself in its entirety (save the N.gas installation). The city inspector was impressed with the outcome and quality of the workmanship, not to mention myself. :) I accomplished this by taking the time to learn the techniques, tools, and not being afraid to fail... after all it's just money.

Of course, I do understand your sediments and for people who see such a project in a different light I whole-heartedly suggest a design consultant myself. For me, I like to design (I do it for a living... though in computers) and work out all the intricate details. This is what appeals to me in this new hobby (my previous hobby was building high powered rockets!) And with the Black Ice Theater being a hobby, I'm in no rush to finish it (the kiss of death for DIY projects) and its the journey, not the end result, that makes this worth spends thousands of dollars on.

Cheers,
Kaoru

When I'm done, I know there will be trade-offs, regrets, and hindsight. However, there will also be kudos, pride, sense of accomplishment, and many hours of enjoyment. :)
 

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where did you find the BOC

Hi,

I'm also starting construction of my basement HT and I'm also located in Ottawa (Orleans, near Home Depot). Can I ask where you purchased your black out cloth for your screen? Was it from a-bdeals on ebay or someplace local?

Thanks!
Chris
 
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