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I use a Perfect Vision Indoor/Outdoor 3x8 Multiswitch for 6 receivers (1x3200-dual, 3x3100, 1x2700). I am planning to add HDTV soon and found a Perfect Vision Indoor/Outdoor 5x8 HDTV Three Multiswitch for Oval Dishes but I don't know if it will work with BEV.
 

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ltldevl said:
I second that! I reiceved a diagram directly from BEV on how to setup 2 SW44s and 4 splitters. They originally wanted 3 GHz splitters but you can't find them anywhere. In the SW44 manual, it says the minimum frequency you need for the splitters. I'm just hunting for Coax cables now (small sizes..). I tried creating my own they they were crap (I don't have the right tools).
I also went the route of getting 4 high bandwidth splitters (5-2400Mhz) ahead of my 2 SW44's. Works perfectly. Funny thing is that I got my splitters for $1.50 each from the local dollar store!! :) I couldn't find small cables so I just bought the smallest cables I could find (3') and went with those.

-=Shaq=-
 

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They originally wanted 3 GHz splitters but you can't find them anywhere.
You may need these for DishPro equipment but not the Dish legacy equipment EV uses. 2 GHZ splitters work quite well. The wiring diagram is included with the Dish SW44s that EV sells.
 

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mbalders said:
Anyone running more then 4 reciver off one dish? Bell doesnt seem to offer a switch bigger then the SW44 (according to the installer they sent). He is currently at a loss on how to connect all (6) of our recivers. Right now we have the old SD only dish and a 4x8 switch all purchased around 2 years ago. Everything worked fine with that dish with the 2 coax feeds from the dish into the switch, then 6 feeds going to the recivers. However it appears that the switch doesnt want to work with the new HD dish and 4 feeds. The installer tried an SW44 and everything worked, except we didnt have all our receivers connected. Anybody have any ideas?
A couple of easy and inexpensive alternatives:

1. IF you have all newer IRDs (3100, 6100, 4100 etc.) replace (but check them) the two LNBs with DishPro ones and then add two DP34 switches. The DP switches have three SAT inputs, four IRD outputs and three CASCADE to another switch outputs. You can cascade at least 12 DP34 switches together and run 48 IRDs off that chain.

2. If you have older (legacy) IRDs buy a three SAT input six IRD outs (there are many of these made) switch.

3. If you have older (legacy) IRDs buy two RCA three SAT input six IRD outs (there are many of these made) switches. The RCA switches have three SAT inputs, four IRD outputs and three CASCADE to another switch outputs. You can cascade several RCA switches to get at least 16 IRDs.

DP34s sell for roughly $15 to $20 on E-Bay. Dish Pro LNBs sell for the same.

# 2 is the simplest of the alternatives.
 

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Skyway said:
Option #1: 4 HF splitters and 2 SW44's

Option #2 a SW44 and SW44A

Another suggestion, get a installer that knows how to do it...:rolleyes:

I went with option 1 and all is fine, i have 5 recievers all working great, one of the 5 is a hd pvr, so i actually have 6.

i got the splitters at home depot for 9.99 each

i also broke down and bought a crimper and cable cutter at the same time,

i already had 2 sw 44 switches.

there is a diagram in the manual that comes with the sw44.
 

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i got the splitters at home depot for 9.99 each
Rhy, can you tell me if the splitters you bought at Home Depot were the ones that say powerpass on one side of the splitter? I don't quite understand what effect this will have on the set-up. Thanks.
 

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High Frequency Splitters - Power Pass vs. Non-Power Pass

Does anyone know which type of High Frequency Splitter to use to hook up two SW44's? I have been looking at these splitters on the internet, but there are ones that have only one port with Power Pass and ones that have both ports with Power Pass. Which one works with this configuration? Thanks.
 

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Need both sides pass through. Just make sure when you split sat 1A it goes into sat 1A on the other sw44 and so forth.

Dubble
 

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Coax connections, which way to go

Hi guys, just looking for opinions between the two. I've read that the compression style connectors make for less signal loss as compared to the crimp style. Just wondering what you guys might think regarding the two and wheither it's worth the extra $ to spring for a compression style crimper, about a $30.00 difference.
 

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I bought the Thomas and Betts compression crimper last year and use their compression fittings. I don't regret it one single bit. The tool strips the wire the way it exactly needs to be by spinning the tool on the wire... put the fitting on the wire, put the fitting in the tool, squeeze, and you're done.

I added a 9200 to my existing receivers, so got the SW44 and SW44A switches for the receivers, diplexor to tie in my cable modem to one of the rooms, and changed out for dish for dual sat. So I had a LOT of new wire and ends I had to put on. Using these fittings allowed me to do all of that quickly. And it was a necessity when making changes to any of the wiring involved my cable modem. Regular hex compression fitting doesn't provide enough signal for cable modems... I know... I tried that initially. :D

Many of my friends and family are using EV as well, so use the tool to make alterations/repairs at their houses as well.

- Steve
 

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Thanks for the input! Is that the only manufacturer of the compression fittings?
 

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Nope. I have seen other incarnations of the original T&B Snap-N-Seal connectors. As a matter of fact, I have seen them in the electrical section of Home Depot... Made by Ideal I believe...
 

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Ideal brand

Gouie,

I bought the Ideal brand from Home Depot ( $ 30 ?). These things work great ! I did however buy the wire stripper from the Source $12 - 16 ? It, also works great to prepare the wires.
The electrician at work looked at them and the fittings and loved them. He said it gives you a connection as good if not better than factory. They work for both RG59 and RG6. Plus the Ideal brand work with atleast 5 -6 brands of connectors.
 

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Just for everyone's information, I talked to a company that does most of the BEV installations for Alberta. They sold me the "both ports power pass" splitters, but they did say that both will work. They indicated that if you use the ones with "one port power pass", that you MUST be careful with the installation and insure that input 1A from the LNB goes to 1A on both SW44's, 1B from the LNB goes to 1B on both SW44's, etc. (they said to wire it this way either way). Also, ensure that the "power pass port" on each input is connected to the same SW44, basically making one of the SW44's a master and one a slave.

I hope this helps everyone that has had this question, but couldn't find anyone to answer it. I contacted BEV several times and they seems surprized to find out that there are switches with single or all port power pass.

I will be installing my second SW44 this weekend and will advise if there were any problems.
 

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I wouldn't go with the one side pass through. Depending on the other switch 44 sucks. The way the lnb's/switch works in simplistic form, you are designating one output of the lnb with 18v, while the other output of the lnb to 12V. When you access a channel through your receiver it will put voltage to the correct lnb input via the sw44 (master). If you access a channel from the receiver on the blocked dc splitter side, the sw44 will be unable to put voltage onto the lnb, thus depending on the master sw44 to place the voltage. eg. If you have all the receivers off on the master side, no voltage will be supplied to the lnb's, so the receivers on the dc blocked sw44 side will not work. Another example. If all the receivers are on the same channel on the master sw44 side, then the dc blocked sw44 will only have access to half the possible channels.
Go with a high frequency splitter without any dc blocking

Dubble
 

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Digicon works great aswell. Just make sure it fits ok into the compression tool. I had to exchange my tool cause it wouldn't physically fit. The old tool did fit the thomas and bretts snap and seal. The digicons in my opinnion looks better, the satellite installer used the T&B connectors.

Dubble
 

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I agree 100%. I wish that the people selling these devices would know this though. I did buy the "all port power pass" model and don't anticipate any issues.
 

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Thanks guys. I ended up buying the one at Home Depot. What a difference in preparation. Much easier than the crimp style. I got speaking with the guy there and his explanation of why these connectors are better made a lot of sense. He was explaining that any alteration of the center of the cable (the white conductor) will degrade the signal. The crimp style connectors compress this part of the cable causing loss where as the commpression fittings do not.
 
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