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Best Plastics, Composites, Rubber for structural antenna parts

90281 Views 212 Replies 43 Participants Last post by  300ohm
Just a warning note about using ABS for structural parts that I've mentioned many times before - hopefully what you're planning to use is the thick walled stuff that has little or no flex. If you go to Rona or Lowe's or Home Depot and shake a 10 foot ABS pipe like a sword it flexes a lot. ;) It seems to be rigid, but its not. If you shake a length of PVC like that it will seem like a wet noodle, so avoid using PVC for structural use either, except when recommended in build plans.

From experience I'm clarifying that ABS should never be used as a pole or mast, and it should be carefully considered if you're thinking of using it as a horizontal boom of any length more than a meter or a few feet.
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Would a 6 foot tripod-mouted mast made of ABS of PVC be less likely to be struck by lightning than a metal pole?
Yes. You would want to make something like that out of the UV resistant electrical pvc and its also cheaper to boot.
i don't think it would make a difference in how likely it is to get struck by lightning. makes no matter to a lightning bolt that just traveled miles through nonconductive air.

i don't think ABS is as strong as PVC. As 300ohm mentioned use electrical PVC that is sunlight resistance. Some brands are stiffer than others so you want to compare before buying.

You would still need to ground your tripod if metallic.
PEX tubing

I tried PEX tubing ( used for water supply lines ), purchased from a home center. PEX comes in different variations, some are advertised as UV resistant but you would probably have to look that up on the web. I had 1/4 inch aluminum rod, so I got the appropriate sized tubing, but they also sell it in larger sizes. It isn't near as stiff as the gutter ferrules, but it was good enough for my design. I ran into the same problem of only finding the ferrules sold along with the spikes for an outrageous price. The PEX was about $2 for a five foot long section.

It was a tight fit getting the rod inside the PEX, so I cut some pieces of .155 inch weed trimmer line (which is pretty stiff) to the length of the gaps and then put it inside the pex tubing and then used a dead blow hammer to force the aluminum rods in from each end until they were snug against the trimmer line. It made it much easier to be sure the reflector rod gaps were close to right. If you are using metal tubing, the trimmer line won't work too well, but something like pieces of fiberglass driveway markers might work as spacers.

Have fun!
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I tried PEX tubing ( used for water supply lines ), purchased from a home center. PEX comes in different variations, some are advertised as UV resistant but you would probably have to look that up on the web.
Yeah, I used that stuff on my first build last year. The PEX tubing sold at Home Depot or Lowes specifically says its not UV resistant, so youll have to paint it for protection. Also the 3/8" ID stuff is a little smaller than the 3/8" typical antenna element, so I had to drill it out a little IIRC.
Yeah, when searching for some plastic or carbon fiber tubes for colinear rod spacers, also think in the other direction if using tubular aluminum.



These old fiberglass tent rods fit into common 3/8 inch antenna tubing very nicely !
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Yeah, when searching for some plastic or carbon fiber tubes for colinear rod spacers, also think in the other direction if using tubular aluminum.
Maybe I didnt understand what you are saying but carbon fiber for spacers will conduit elec depending how it is coated but I'm sure everyone know that.
but carbon fiber for spacers will conduit elec depending how it is coated but I'm sure everyone know that.
The ones above dont, but then again, maybe they are really just black fiberglass, hard to tell with chinese plastics. I always check with a meter. I guess I should have mentioned those tent poles were from a cheapie 2 or 4 person mountain tent set, heh.

Some makes of brightly colored fiberglass driveway markers will also fit nicely in a common 3/8 inch aluminum antenna tube (especially the split tube ones).
I should have posted this earlier:



Those are black plastic plant containers and trays, available for free from Home Depot or Lowes after they kill the plants that were in them, which they invariably do, heh. They have been outdoors for 13 plus years and are still in fine shape, so they must be pretty UV resistant. Cutting them up should yield some useable plastic antenna pieces.
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Ultomato plastic tomato cage

I couldnt find the plastics thread anymore, heh. (EDIT by stampeder: I found it and merged them)

Heres 3 - five foot by a little more than 3/8" pieces of UV resistant plastic rod, and 9 - 10 inch UV resistant plastic clips (that can make up to 18 clips for antenna usage). The clips fit a little loose around a standard 3/8" aluminum antenna rod, so some electrical tape would have to be wrapped around the rod for a tight fit. But the price is right, the Ultimato tomato cage sells for $5.98 in the Wal-Mart garden dept.

As far as holding up tomatos goes, I think I can build a stronger, cheaper cage using 1/2 inch electrical pvc and my clip on sch 40 clip on tees, heh.







They list their website on the package as www.theultomato.com, but I keep getting a timeout error when trying to go there.
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I wonder how good the UV protection really is. I am in the process of making an antenna for Ham radio and was looking for material to cut spacers about 4 inches long and this may be just the ticket.
I wonder how good the UV protection really is.
On the label it says "Lasts season after season" heh.

Looking at the reviews on the web, it looks like some have been using them for a few years, and have been left outdoors year round in the deep south, where UV rays are much much tougher on plastic. Like here : http://forum.earthbox.com/index.php?topic=1919.0

Heres some additional comments as to where to buy:
"At my ACE Hardware, they're selling them for $9.99. I got mine at Walmart for only $5.98."
"I got mine from Amazon for $5.49 you do have to pay shipping but I cant remember how much that was"
"Got the first one at Home Depot for $5.99 but went back for more and they were $3 each "


Heres some similar fiberglass garden ladders : http://www.gardenersedge.com/
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After looking at the Ultomato cages at Home Depots garden center today, I noticed that the label on the Sturdi-Stakes that the cage is made from said "steel reinforced center". Sure enough when I got home, I put a magnet to it and it stuck, heh. So I peeled off an end and sure enough, a 3/8 inch hollow un-seamed steel tube was the core. I should have realized the stake felt too light to be solid plastic. Its still good rod reflector material and answers a lot of questions about its longevity. The bumps on the plastic are there on purpose to have something to grip the string when tieing up tomato or other plants. For reflector use, they wont matter much, but the plastic covering will lower the velocity factor of the reflector. The plastic covering looks to be about 1/64" thick (.5mm), not counting the bumps.
The clips are solid UV resistant plastic though made from the same stuff as the covering, and that was my main point of interest in the thing.

Picture:

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My current physically based quest is calling chemical and medical suppliers in my area for rigid PVC 1/4" tubes, to support the gap between reflectors in a GH10 or DBGH. Does anyone here have experience finding or using this sort of material?
rigid PVC 1/4" tubes, to support the gap between reflectors in a GH10 or DBGH
I bought some rigid plastic tubing at a model building store. They weren't too sure of the material, but it was fairly rigid and good for non structural parts and came in a huge variery of diameters, I think they had from about 1/16" up to 2", with about 40 sizes in between, no exaggeration. The place I went to specialized in tiny materials for building doll houses, train models, etc...

I used 3/8" tube with a 1/4" ID to set the gaps between my reflectors, which were made from 1/4" copper tube. The ID was actually a bit smaller than the1/4" tube, so I used a 1/4" masonary bit to drill out the tube a tiny bit creating a step at the exact depth I needed so I could just shove the reflectors in and they would be at the correct gap. I can take the reflectors out to move the antenna and reset them without having to measure again.
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For common 3/8 inch antenna tubing, grey UV resistant plastic gutter ferrules, available at ACE Hardware for 15 cents each, or at Home Depot in packs with the nails, work very well. Also fiberglass tent poles slip into the tubing nicely.
grey UV resistant plastic gutter ferrules
For some reason these are EXTREMELY hard to find in Canada (impossible for me north of Toronto, anyway). I looked in 5 stores and the only kind anyone had were the aluminum folded sheetmetal ones. I don't know if it's because they don't stand up to the cold winters, or maybe it's just not a common practice in this area, but they don't seem to exist around here.

I do agree they are a great construction material if available locally. I spent a lot of time going through every isle of Home Depot and Lowes trying to find some other similar plastic tubing and could not come up with any good alternatives.
Yeah, the aluminum (and galvanized) gutter ferrules used to be the only ones we had here for years too. These plastic ones are somewhat new, probably to cut costs.
Acrylite FF acrylic sheets (4.5 mm thick) are my choice for attaching NARODs and NAROD reflectors to the center frame structure of the DBGH build (NARODs to NAROD reflectors spacing is 10").

Here are some of its physical properties:
- withstands exposure to blazing sun, extreme cold, sudden temperature changes, salt water spray, etc. It will not deteriorate after many years of service because of the inherent stability of acrylic resins.
- will expand and contract due to changes in temperature and humidity, it will not shrink with age
- a 48” panel will expand and contract approximately .002” for each degree fahrenheit change in temperature. In outdoor use, where summer and winter temperatures differ as much as 100°F, a 48” sheet will expand and contract approximately 3/16”

... and at a fraction of the cost of lexan, making it a very good choice for my application.
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... and at a fraction of the cost of lexan, making it a very good choice for my application.
Sounds good to me too ! I used to use 3/8ths inch Lexan on my boat windshields, because at that thickness, it was almost bullet-proof and my friends butt couldnt break it, unlike plexi, heh.
Yeah I dislike acrylic compared to lexan as acrylic is quite brittle.
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