|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|2018-08-11 10:53 PM|
|Monsieur Rioux||Errors on original HDD affecting clone. Repaired and new clone taken. All good.|
|2018-08-09 07:33 PM|
Original HDD 500gb. Something like 330 available of 465, was what it said, so that's around 170 used.
Clean install of W10 worked and booted, unlike the clone/migration so that's an improvement. But when it came to transfer of other stuff from the HDD to the SSD, it was not reading the content of the HDD attached via the Sata cable.
So she swapped them back so the SSD was connected externally and the HDD back inside, to transfer other stuff to the SSD.
That didn't work because there "wasn't enough room" even though the content of the HDD is less than the size of the SSD.
So a clone of the whole thing doesn't boot. A clean install of W10 does boot but will not allow the other stuff to move over.
Tried a million things boot related, command prompt etc, even trying yet another clone thinking that maybe the successful boot from the W10 only might have triggered it into working.
Given up now. It's going to a local computer guy to see if he can make a difference.
|2018-08-08 03:14 PM|
|ExDilbert||If it's an external port then it's usually an eSATA port. Not much difference other than the connector layout. To connect directly to a bare drive, an eSATA to SATA cable must be used. I'm a little confused as eSATA does not supply power so an external power source must be available. That's usually supplied by the PC, a drive dock, a drive case or a power adapter.|
|2018-08-08 01:34 PM|
Thanks...but a little confused by the reference to opening the PC with regards to use of Sata cable. Other than physically removing/replacing the drives there's no need to open anyway. It's not an extra drive installed as it's one in and one out, if I'm getting that right. There's only one space/dock/connection for the drive inside the laptop.
The Sata cable connects the SSD externally when migrating/cloning the HDD to it and with a clean install, the Sata cable is connecting the HDD externally once the PC has been opened/closed to insert the SSD.
Chocks away in half an hour.
|2018-08-08 11:58 AM|
The SATA cable can be used to restore data. It is faster than USB 2.0 as well. USB just tends to be more portable and eliminates the need to open up the PC. For most operations, SATA and USB connected drives are indistinguishable. USB drives can be hot swapped while the PC is on. SATA drives can only be hot swapped with motherboards that support it.
One caveat is to make sure the PC boots from the correct drive when it is booted with the extra SATA drive installed. Rename the boot partition on the new drive to something unique so it is easily recognized in Windows. The boot drive can be set in the BIOS or by pressing the F11 or F12 key at boot time.
One caution about USB drive cases. Unless the PC has a USB 3 port, get a USB 2 case with a power connector and a power supply (can be purchased separately) or a USB Y cable for extra power with a 2.5" case. One USB 2 port may not provide enough power for the drive. I recommend performing automated backups to an always available networked drive. Drive imaging software can usually make automatic backups to and restore from networked drives. This doesn't need to be a dedicated NAS or server, it could be a large drive on a another PC.
|2018-08-08 09:28 AM|
Originally Posted by ExDilbert View Post
With regards to "pop the old drive in a USB drive dock or USB case to recover any user data" - I've made back-ups before, without ever knowing how one might make use of it but hoping never to have to find out, but it looks like that's not an option now as she will want her games and other things back without doing it individually.
So the first question is once the clean install has been done, can the stuff on the old drive be transferred to the SSD via the same sata cable that was used for the failed migrate to SSD? USB dock/case sounds quite a different method. Or would it be better to back up onto an external drive instead.
Is that then just a case of selecting what to transfer to SSD - perhaps by only selecting what to copy from the HDD in the first place, before inserting the SSD? Any pitfalls?
|2018-08-02 11:32 PM|
|ExDilbert||I made a correction to my post. People with retail versions of Windows who received the free Win10 upgrade use the Win7/8/8.1 activation code. Not sure about OEM versions.|
|2018-08-02 11:25 PM|
|Monsieur Rioux||Thanks for that. Very helpful.|
|2018-08-02 11:08 PM|
People with retail versions of Windows who received the free Win10 upgrade use the Win7/8/8.1 activation code. I've had issues with those when hardware was upgraded. People buying retail copies of Win10 may have received a new activation code. Not sure because all my licenses are retail upgrades. Others received a license tied to an Outlook email account. I find the Outlook email method to be more reliable. Just create an account at Outlook.com. Then go to Start > Settings > Activation > Add a Microsoft Account and register it. Windows will now use the email account for activation and login. It can be changed back to a local login but the email account can be used to activate Windows 10 when needed.
It's possible that this particular drive just won't work with that laptop. They should be compatible but it's never 100% guaranteed. Chances are the laptop wasn't designed with SSDs in mind or there could be some oddball SATA chip inside it.
My reason for recommending a 250GB drive is partly due to Win10's tendency to increase in size with time. Every update makes Win10 grow by at least the size of the update and that's just the start. Win10 can double in size in a couple of years and there is no easy way to get rid of it other than a fresh install. A 120GB SSD drive may be good enough for Win7, I've installed it on a 60GB drive, but Win10 is less forgiving. 120GB should be OK when few personal files are present. Another consideration is that larger SSDs are faster and will typically last longer.
|2018-08-02 10:47 PM|
Ah...I think I see what you mean now. I misread it at first, apologies.
Worth a try, albeit a bit more fiddly than what worked on the other three.
I seem to remember reading that when the free W10 upgrade was done, the original W7 number was replaced by a new one during the process. With a clean install of W10, we'd presumably have to dig that out in order to activate it on the SSD.
|2018-08-02 07:19 PM|
Listen to ExDilbert. Do a clean install. Your drive should be fine when windows formats it for the first time. This way your not working with any old OS
problems. It easy to get off your old data. For further reference try to keep your data on One Drive, Google Drive or a stand alone USB drive. This way it makes it's so easy to reinstall the OS or to get a new hard drive.
|2018-08-02 07:03 PM|
Thanks for the advice regarding NewEgg - lots of cheap alternatives there. I thought I was being 'cheap' by buying Kingston ones.
Bizarrely, I saw somewhere that 250s were cheaper than 240s.
|2018-08-02 07:00 PM|
Not sure what you mean about having no OS. It's all on the original HDD back in her laptop now that the SSD equivalent isn't booting.
|2018-08-02 06:58 PM|
She's tried it three times on that particular SSD following the same procedure as two other Kingston SSD using Partition Wizard and one Crucial SSD using the Crucial tool (for three others).
After the process and while still connected, her HP laptop recognises the SSD and other than it being 240 rather than the 500 HDD, it appears all correct. Presumably it wouldn't look like that if it hadn't migrated properly so there seems to be some issue with her laptop which works fine in every other aspect, with the HDD.
On the point of size, none of us in the family have files as such. I used to have a load of downloaded movies/TV shows but they're now on an external drive. The others have games, many of them the same as on each others laptops. Backup and space isn't really an issue for us as there's little to back up and what there is happens to be readily available.
I started the experiment using 120 solely because my old Gateway and Acer laptops have no more than 70gb in use on each. I was interested to the difference.
If I migrate the HD from my Acer to the SSD and it works internally then we'll know there's something on the HP preventing it.
|2018-08-02 08:47 AM|
Monsieur Rioux: Also you may want to make sure you have the latest BIOS updates applied from your manufacturer.
Since you have no OS you will need to use a USB stick to copy the firmware update and update from the BIOS setup screen utilities.
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