Signal Amplifiers (Amps, Preamps, Distro Amps) - Page 247 - Canadian TV, Computing and Home Theatre Forums

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post #3691 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-06, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Gran Chico View Post
Pete, the red light is on. I'm going to have to go up on the roof and take it off the mast and see what's up with it. Unfortunately I don't have a DC voltmeter.

Thanks for the TVPRAMP-1R info.
Got it down and ran a few tests. Definitely not working. If anyone in the Toronto area wants my HDP-269 for parts, send me a PM soon.

A-D DB4e & CS5, CM 4221 & 7778, TiVo Premiere & Roamio
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post #3692 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-06, 09:47 PM
 
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Pete,

As previously pointed out, that overload spec that Winegard is advertising has already been debunked. Totally bogus. Their own IP3 and P1dB numbers prove that.

However, since the Winegard is reportedly without any shielding, your symptom might be from ingress issues instead of overload via the normal signal path. Maybe you can put the amp in your ammo can to see if that makes a difference.
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post #3693 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-06, 10:34 PM
 
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ProjectSHO89,

The boxes that I referred to in my earlier posts are bright yellow plastic boxes that 22 cal ammo came in. They worked great for housing and weather proofing my drop amp power distribution system but wouldnít provide any RF shielding.

I thought about getting an aluminum project box from Electronics Warehouse or Radio Shack but the RCAís work so well and they are so cheap I wonder if itís worth it? Iím really surprised that the RCAís donít overload here. The only other amps I been able to get to work reliably are the PCT MA2-M +15 dB CATV drop amps.

El Gran Chico,

Sorry to hear that. Do you suppose a static discharge got it? You might want to keep the power supply/power inserter for future projects.
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post #3694 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-07, 01:26 PM
 
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Ah! When I heard "ammo can" I was thinking back to the metal ones....
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post #3695 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-07, 04:05 PM
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if it could be lined with aluminum tape on the inside, ya think that would help? Might be better than nothing. I have a roll of 1 inch 3M Copper tape at home.
http://www.3m.com/product/informatio...Foil-Tape.html

DB8E/VHF Yagi rotor FM Bandstop ap-8700 preamp 8way split LG lcd.
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post #3696 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-07, 10:12 PM
 
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In areas like the GTA, I recommend to my customers that they DO NOT use a Pre-Amp, because it kills the Toronto stations.

Instead, if they are using three or more TV's, I recommend they invest in a Power Distribution Amp (such as the Channel Master/PCT line).
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post #3697 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-09, 06:48 AM
 
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Power pass splitter after pre amp below antenna?

Can I use a 3 way splitter with power pass right after the
pre amp and feed 3 tuners with the power inserter using
the DC power pass?
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post #3698 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-09, 07:28 AM
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Yes on the power pass. I have a 4 way power pass. The power inserter is behind the basement tv. The other 3 go direct, or split again with regular splitters.

Samsung TV, Pio-Elite AVR, OppoBD, Wharfedale Speakers, Kicker/Crown Subs, DB-4e OTA:)
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post #3699 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-09, 09:27 AM
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Just be careful. If the splitter passes power on all ports, you will want to put DC blocks on the the ports to the other TVs. Also, apparently some satellite splitters use diodes for power pass, but they are wired backwards for what is needed for OTA pre-amps.

Link to my TVFool results is in my profile Homepage URL. I suggest others do the same.
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post #3700 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-09, 04:17 PM
 
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Thanks Tom.


Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1818 View Post
If the splitter passes power on all ports, you will want to put DC blocks on the the ports to the other TVs.
Thanks Roger.
I will find one that passes on only one port.
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post #3701 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-09, 06:11 PM
 
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you will want to put DC blocks on the the ports

Thanks again, I found one of these which will work perfect:

Pico Macom TSB-31GDC 1GHz 3-way Digital CATV/Antenna Signal Splitter
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post #3702 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-10, 12:19 PM
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dsspredator, Looks good, but just a heads up, it is an unbalanced slitter with 3.7 dB loss (typical) on the power passing port and 6.8 dB loss (typical) on the other two ports. The spec sheet is here.

Link to my TVFool results is in my profile Homepage URL. I suggest others do the same.
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post #3703 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-10, 02:01 PM
 
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I will pass the power to the winegard pre amp on my 4228 with the one power port.

Then, the 2 no power ports will be diplexed into the house.

I will test it out and see how it performs (and report back).

If all goes well, I can take down my old 4221 and just run off the 4228.
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post #3704 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-10, 10:37 PM
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dsspredator, You will also want to connect the input on your power injector to a TV as well especially since that port will have the least amount of signal loss.

Link to my TVFool results is in my profile Homepage URL. I suggest others do the same.
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post #3705 of 4350 (permalink) Old 2013-09-12, 08:50 PM
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Here's a pre-amp question that stumped me but I'm sure someone here can answer:

- a setup has separate UHF and VHF antennas on different masts
- there's a pre-amp on the UHF antenna (one that has separate VHF, UHF-combine inputs)
- the feeds from both antennas is joined after the power inserter with a UVSJ

So on the pre-amp, is there any advantage to having the Separate/Combine switch in either position? I'm thinking it wouldn't matter since if in the combine position, any VHF signal the UHF antenna pulls in will be filtered out by the UVSJ anyway. Or will putting it as separate give a 2nd filtering that would materially improve the result?

In either setting, I assume it is useful to put a terminator on the unused VHF input on the pre-amp, correct?

Thanks for your advice!

A-D DB4e & CS5, CM 4221 & 7778, TiVo Premiere & Roamio
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amplifier , dtv , ota , preamp , signal strength

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