OTA Mounts, Towers, Rigging Hardware - Page 2 - Canadian TV, Computing and Home Theatre Forums

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post #16 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-06-24, 04:19 PM
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: 300 Steelcase Road W, #20 Markham,905470 9604 ext 230
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Stampeder thanks for all the suggestion and the information.

Once I split the signal I will test and let u know what a better tuner the one in the Sony or the Samsung SIR T451.

CM4228/9521/7775;F.RmJvc70FH96/8300HDPvr/Dish 612;B.Rm LC52LE810UN/8642HD;Study LG50PK550/Xbox360;
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post #17 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-06-24, 11:36 PM
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Location: Springfield, MA and Ottawa
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If you are getting DTV signals at a distance of 60 miles with a 4228 and no preamp, you have absolutely nothing to complain about! Rotate your antenna, and thank your lucky stars that you are doing as well as you are!

Stampeder: get that 4228 and the 1111 up on the roof and quit your stalling!
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post #18 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-06-28, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Question Anyone ever taken down a tower/antennas for reuse?

I have to face the fact that my property has bad SeaTac reception mojo due to the huge trees. West coast DHCers know what I mean by these big beautiful monster firs and red cedars. If I put my CM1111 and CM4228 up on a 60' tower with a rotator it would all be just fine but we're contemplating moving within a few years so I have to decide if a tall tower is something that is relatively easy to take down if we go. Anyone ever taken down a tower/antennas safely and successfully for reuse?

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post #19 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-06-28, 02:31 PM
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Oshawa, Ontario
Posts: 19
Tower de-erection

Hi there, if i were you, i would leave it there, it is much easier to find one which is already on the ground. i picked up a 40 footer for $75 already on the ground and i sanded it, primed it and repainted it. looks just like new.

I've taken down a tower before, it's 5x harder to take it down then it is to put it up. you could go up and save the antenna though and the rotor.

Thats' what i would do.
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post #20 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-06-28, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Tower installation

Originally posted by GARYGNU:

I have an outdoor antenna tower attached to the side of my house. It has a 10' base tower section, a 10' top tower section, a non-functioning rotor (adding 7' of height), and a very old UHF/VHF combination antenna on top. The UHF/VHF antenna is 5' long. The top of the antenna is about 25' high (2' of base tower section is buried in the ground). The tower is attached to the side of my house with 3 U clamps.

The top of my roof is about 22' high. My roof is in the signal path for the antenna.

I want to mount a CM 4228 antenna with a CM7777 amp. Probably remove the old rotor and UHF/VHF antenna. I am going to need some more height to clear the roof. I have thought about extending the tower with another 10' section, or adding a longer 'pole' at the top where the rotor used to be.

I would like to do the labour myself.

Any ideas on the new design?
How do I physically modify the existing antenna?

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post #21 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-06-28, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Replies to Tower Installation post

I messed up one of the moderator tools so I had to cut and paste some of the messages in this thread. That's why some of them look so odd. Sorry about that.

04-27-2005, 03:08 PM

Knowing the Port Perry area quite well I'd suggest getting higher.
Another section of tower would be your best bet.
Simply adding a longer pole and you could easily have a bent over pole next summer.

The average Antenna system should be a total of 40-50 feet in the Durham area. Thats optimal height for our area for both VHF & UHF.
Each section of TV tower (tubular) type is 10 feet mids & 9.5 foot tops.

04-27-2005, 03:25 PM

Simply adding a longer pole and you could easily have a bent over pole next summer.

Yes he will..... keep in mind that the CM 4228 is a 16 pound antenna.

04-27-2005, 07:24 PM

The antenna tower has to be self supporting, guy wires is not an option. The tower itself is in pretty good shape, some rust but not corroded thru. The tower is the most common type that I have seen. It has 1" tubing going upwards and measures approx 11.5" between each tube.

I will stay away from extending the pole due to the excessive weight of the CM 4228 antenna. I imagine it is also hard to work at the top with such a long pole.

A 40' plus tower sure sounds serious. Would I need a professional installer?

04-27-2005, 07:50 PM

If I was you I would call up a professional Antenna installer and ask him to come by your place to just give you an estimate. While he’s there you could pick his brain and ask him about the quality of the tower, if he thinks it still good enough to extend, tell him what you want to do and get his advice… since it’s an estimate you can get the advice for free. If you then feel you want to use his service then do so or do it your self if you think you can handle the job. He might even have the antenna you want and other equipment in his truck to sell you.. saves you the trouble of buying it elsewhere.

04-28-2005, 04:03 PM

The one quote I received over the phone indicated that labour alone was $70.00 for the first HALF hour and $30.00 for every HALF hour after that (+ GST). Three hours of labour is almost $400!

If I was to proceed on my own, how would I prpceed. Lets say, for example, that I add an extra tower section and remove the old rotor based antenna. Does the whole tower need to come down first? ...

04-29-2005, 11:03 AM

The one quote I received over the phone indicated that labour alone was $70.00 for the first HALF hour and $30.00 for every HALF hour after that (+ GST). Three hours of labour is almost $400!

If I was to proceed on my own, how would I prpceed. Lets say, for example, that I add an extra tower section and remove the old rotor based antenna. Does the whole tower need to come down first? ...

I would say yes only because from my recent experience in grabbing my neighbours TV tower, there was no safe way to uninstall the older mast/rotator and antenna as the parts were either rusted or ceased up. As well, depending on the size of the antenna and mast, it can be awkward to manipulate. But that all depends on your particular situation based on your roof and slope, you might be able to safely remove.

From my experience, we took down a 24' tower and accessories during a mild day this winter. We didn't even bother trying to dig up the buried 18" section as we just sawed off the house brackets and the tower just above the ground with a sawzal. With one person supporting and steadying the weight of the upper section of the tower via way of a rope, we had two other guys basically walking it down. Overall the tower and antenna is not heavy, actually it surprised me how light everything was. I plan to reverse the same procedure, but I'll be digging a hole for the base section in order to steady the raising of the tower and antenna. Where or not I drop in a bag or two of cement is an option for now. Good luck either way. Keep extra safe especially with power lines around.

05-09-2005, 10:37 AM

Things are moving along slowly. I just received my CM 7777 amp. Got a used one on eBAY for $70.00 cdn total. Temporarily adding the amp at the end of a 50 foot RG6 cable improved my CBC signal from 5 to 8 bars. Still no other stations. I am gambling that extra tower height will get me more. Hopefully, some of the other stations boost their power soon.

I do need to get some short RG6 cables to go between the antenna and amp on the tower. Any ideas?

Now I am trying to source two 10' antenna tower sections. I have decided to take down the existing antenna to do the mods.

I also have to see whether my current base is cemented in or not. If it is, I may need an extra section. Also, there is not another good spot to mount the antenna.

I will keep this thread updated with my progress. Please keep the suggestions coming. If anyone lives in the Port Perry/Uxbridge area and is interested in helping/learning together, PM me.

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post #22 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-06-28, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Cheap and simple OTA signal testing

If you are in a DTV OTA area here's a cheap, simple alternative to hiring a professional with signal detection equipment. You get what you pay for, so I recommend the professional for best results!

You'll need a small portable TV and antenna (rabbit ears if you have to, but a proper antenna in medium to deep fringe areas), a stepladder, a hammer and some pegs, a compass, some duct tape, and maybe an assistant to help carry stuff and keep notes. If you already have a DTV tuner, that's even better because you can log the results of its strength meter as you test. In my case I use a 13" portable colour tv with a Channel Master 4228 antenna on a 3m mast.

Methodically walk the TV around your yard in 1 x 1 metre grid steps (you can even do this on your roof, but be careful!) using the compass to point the antenna at the area where the DTV stations are, repeatedly scanning all the VHF and UHF analog channels each time you move to the next grid. Repeat repeat repeat... and don't make assumptions that you won't need to scan all the channels each and every time. Half a meter can make a difference, so go through them all each time.

If you find that some of the analog stations might be snowy that's okay because that means signal strength is the only problem. If ghosting is occurring, you have a more serious problem called "multipathing", which is always to be avoided since an equivalent DTV signal would therefore probably not be viable for reception at that specific location. DTV is hit particularly hard by multipathing.

Generally if you find one or two "sweet spots" in which you are getting a good number of analog stations in relatively good signal condition with minimal ghosting, hammer a locator peg into the grass or mark a locator on your roof with duct tape (which you can write on with a ball point pen), write down your results in a log book, and try to find out how altitude affects the results by taking the gear up the stepladder. Of course stepladders and roofs are generally a bad combination... so please don't try that. Usually the higher the antenna the better, but that's not always true in areas with big trees and building overhangs, sundeck roofs, etc. so don't be surprised if there is no performance gain.

When you're back at your computer compare your written results with the other results from your area here in the stickied threads to see how good you're doing. If all looks good you can set up an antenna on a mast there and start pulling in the DTV stations.

Note that you get what you paid for, so if you're not satisfied with the results, its time to get that professional to come over and run proper tests.

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post #23 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-06-28, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Photos of top notch antenna installation!

For photos of HDTV101's top notch antenna installation see these posts:



or check out the entire "Pimp My Gear" photos thread:


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post #24 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-06-29, 07:57 PM
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Location: Waterford, Ont
Posts: 230
My new channel master rotor is remote controlled.
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post #25 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-08-22, 12:19 AM
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Ontario
Posts: 172
Tripod Mount Question

with these tripods do you actually need to secure into the surface they are sitting on or are they stable enough free-standing?

i don't like the idea of fastening anything to my roof shingles
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post #26 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-08-27, 05:21 AM
Join Date: Dec 2004
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HDTV101's Home DBS/CATV/Security Camera "Distribution Center"

Originally Posted by jbracing24
How critical to keep the cable in one piece, can I run to the centre of the house for future splitting to a future DT television upstairs and then complete the run to the HT room with a new cable?.
When ever planning to wire a home for any kind on TV or Video distribution always have a center point and run all wiring from this point to all areas of the home that will need to connect to the system. This way no matter what you want to do later you can make the changes quick and simple at the Distribution Center.

Here is my Satellite, Cable TV, and Security Camera "Distribution Center".

From here I have control over all the video wiring of my entire home! I can make feed changes at any time by just changing the jumpers around.

Also included in my Distribution Center is the input from 5 Security Cameras that are placed outside around my home.

The security cameras area modulated onto 6 UHF channels and inserted into the home video system and all cameras are available to all TV's through out my home. The 6th channel is from the sequencer that gives me an automatic look from all cameras at one time!
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post #27 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-08-27, 08:15 AM
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Windsor ,Ont (Area)
Posts: 364
All cables to one area


Your right, that's the only way to do it ! Just one question where is the shelf with the bottle of Tylanol ?? I get a headache just looking at all your cables !!! LOL
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post #28 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-08-27, 08:35 AM
Join Date: Apr 2005
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HDTV101 - Thanks for posting your picture. My wife could not believe that someone else had more wires running than I installed.
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post #29 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-08-27, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Terrific photos and installation, HDTV101. Well done!

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post #30 of 2048 (permalink) Old 2005-09-11, 09:46 PM
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 384
The main purpose of lightning protection and grounding is to prevent your house from burning down. Even so, a direct hit is likely to cause "minor" (ha!) damage to some or most of your home theatre equipment.

If you want to protect your gear the way professional installations are perfectly protected, then as step one: move into a metal building. Once you're in a metal building, then you can use the same entrance protection systems as used by the pros.
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antenna , balcony , guy wire , installation , mast , ota

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