Ground Loop Issue - Page 2 - Canadian TV, Computing and Home Theatre Forums
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 2017-04-05, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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Doh!, thanks and I will continue to find out what is going on.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 2017-04-05, 10:01 AM
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The RG6 needs to go through a grounding block near where it enters the house. The grounding block needs to be connected to the same ground as the electrical panel. The electrical ground could be a cold water pipe or a buried grounding device. Use #10 solid wire. The panel grounding wire is usually a large bare copper or green insulated stranded conductor. The #10 wire can be clamped to the grounding conductor with an approved clamp or terminated at the same location. Do not cut the large grounding wire.
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 2017-04-05, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, talked to a level two tech, he is sending someone more knowledgeable out tomorrow.
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 2017-04-07, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Third guy came and ran a ground from the coax splitter to ground from electrical panel (should he have run from the grounding block??) and 90% of the buzz was gone, he said that there must be an issue with the house ground so I hooked back up through the power conditioner until I can get that looked at. He also stuck the ground from the splitter into an electrical socket and 90% of the buzz was gone, he said that there is an outlet plug I could purchase that has a way to run the ground wire to it but I can't find anything like it for sale anywhere. After he left I turned on my transducer in my chair and can hear a buzz, I did not turn this on previously so I would say my problem never completely went away after hooking though the conditioner.
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 2017-04-08, 10:45 AM
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Running the coax through the power bar is not necessarily a bad idea. It depends on what type of surge suppression components, if any, are used. A good quality power bar, such as this one made by Tripp Lite, it should have little impact. Note the 2.2GHz rating on the coax section. Cheap surge suppressors may have components that block some signals or are ineffective.

A cheaper option would be to obtain a three prong plug and grounding block and then connect a wire from the grounding block to the ground on the receptacle. This must be done with care since an incorrect connection could cause serious injury or damage A/V components.
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 2017-04-08, 10:51 AM
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he said that there must be an issue with the house ground
Evidence suggests that 90% of the problem was due to the incoming coax creating ground loop interference. The other 10% could be due to faulty or poorly made components and cables. Ground loop interference can also be caused by nearby magnetic fields (such as high tension power lines) or faulty wiring.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 2017-04-14, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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I have time to check this out now, does this look properly grounded to anyone?

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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 2017-04-14, 01:05 PM
 
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Completely unacceptable.....bare copper wire, galvanized clamp on painted pipe. Yikes!! Very sloppy and totally unprofessional.
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 2017-04-14, 01:14 PM
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I have time to check this out now, does this look properly grounded to anyone?
That's not suitable. Perhaps a complaint to the responsible company is in order. Let them know the shoddy work their contractors are doing.

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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 2017-04-14, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Actually the third and most experienced guy changed it to this, is this the house ground from the meter that goes into the ground? Is there a copper pipe inside of this that is the actual ground? If so, then what is the ground wire coming out of my panel that I believe runs to my water pipe to where it comes in the house? Do I have two grounds? Correct me if I am wrong but if the meter is not the actual ground then I need them to come back yet again with even a more experienced guy to run the ground straight from my grounding block to the ground wire from my panel.....just like ExDilbert said I just wonder why three of them, plus friends I have talked to, seem to think that connecting to the meter like this is an actual ground.



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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 2017-04-14, 09:31 PM
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seem to think that connecting to the meter like this is an actual ground.
It may be good enough (doubtful) for a safety ground, but not necessarily a signal ground. There are actually 3 types of ground. A safety ground ensures that there is no exposed hot contact points. Power ground is the return side of the power line. The third type is a signal ground, for things like telephone, cable TV etc. A good safety ground might actually be too noisy for a signal ground. Many years ago, I worked in planning in a major telco central office. There, all 3 grounds were kept completely separate, except at the common ground point for the building. A signal ground would never be connected to a safety ground and connecting a power ground to anything else is illegal.

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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 2017-04-15, 11:33 AM
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This ground appears to meet code for grounding incoming lines. However, it can create a ground loop. It's better to use a grounding block inside the house and connect it to the house system ground. It's OK to have more than one ground on the incoming line. It may even be preferable if the street services are overhead.
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 2017-04-21, 10:44 AM
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This book might be useful for many here:

Grounding and Bonding for the Radio Amateur

It may be available from Amateur Radio stores, as well as mail order.

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