Is your LCD (or Plasma, or other stuff) affecting your STB or PVR? - Canadian TV, Computing and Home Theatre Forums
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post #1 of 75 (permalink) Old 2007-05-28, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Is your LCD (or Plasma, or other stuff) affecting your STB or PVR?

Many people have reported that their LCD TVs (or plasmas) affect their STBs (set top boxes) or other equipment - Channels change at random, remote only working at close range, pop-ups, etc. This is due to the backlight leaking IR that can affect the STB (or other devices). There are several ways around this issue:

- It often stops once the TV has been on for a while, so simply wait a minute or so.

- Place the STB further from the TV or "hidden" from the stray IR.

- If you can change the remote address of the STB (Many don't allow this), then try that.

- Change the backlight setting on the LCD (if possible) to a setting of say 4-8 out of 10.

- Do not leave the TV on its default picture mode - usually called Vivid or Dynamic. Read the FAQ on : TV Optimization. TV optimization has the added benefit of providing the best possible picture quality, since TVs never come properly set up.

- Turn off OPC (Optical Picture Control), or Light Sensor or auto-contrast (C.A.T.S.), or whatever it's called on your particular make/model of TV.

- Apparently some TVs may have a presence sensor to shut down the TV if there is no activity in the room. If your TV has this, turn it off.

- If the item affected is in direct sunlight, move it to a place where it's not hit by direct sunlight.

- Make sure the STB is not partially hidden - move it so that it can be "clearly" seen by the remote.

- If your equipment is on a glass shelf, try moving it to the front of the shelf so that there are no reflections off the glass.

- If you have glass doors in front of your equipment, try opening/closing them temporarily to see what works.

- A different remote, like the Harmony, may not have the same issues.

- If the item in question can be switched to RF or bluetooth, that will usually solve the problem

- If the problem is with a STB (or other device) and you suspect the TV, simply turn the TV off to see if the STB (or other device) responds normally to commands - like changing channels, volume, etc which can usually be seen on the front of the STB/other device. The TV should be off for a short while before testing the STB.

- If the problematic equipment comes with a "remote" IR sensor that can be plugged into the device, then perhaps the sensor can be placed where it isn't affected, if the equipment cannot be moved to a better location.

- Slightly cover the IR sensor ("eye") on the affected piece of equipment - tape, paper, post-it, etc. Some "fiddling" may be required - amount of cover, transparency, etc.

- One person had the Wii bar too close to their equipment. If you have a Wii, remove it from the equation temporarily to check.

- Try rebooting the STB by turning it off, unplugging it for a minute and plugging it back in (make sure you're not recording if it's a PVR). This may only be a temporary fix, but it does check to make sure the firmware is properly loaded.

- Changing the "delay" in a Harmony remote may help.

If you're having issues, see point 16/18 (and other points) of Things to check first.

Edit 2008.04.17 - I've actually seen this problem in action during several of my optimization calls and now on my own LCD. Once the TV was on for about 30 seconds, everything was fine, so it depends on the make/model of TV, settings, STB, etc. I had previously done many setups on LCDs without issue.

Edit by dosborne - CFL bulbs (Compact Fluorescent Light) are often the cause of this issue as well. In my experience it doesn't matter if you are using the original IR remote or the Harmony (880 at least). Switching to UHF obviously works as the technology is completely different.

IR extenders seem to be quite susceptible. If they have an "eye" that flashes when they receive a signal, you can often see the eye flashing full time.


Some Pace units seem to be encountering an IR code issue - not interference, but same codes. See following thread.

Pace 770D / Sharp Aquos Remote Issue - Canadian TV, Computing and Home Theatre Forums

Similar thread in the plasma forum - this is not isolated to LCDs, although the issue is more common with them.

Note, sometimes the problem can arise as a combination of any of the above - for example, sunlight and TV combined may be worse than one or the other alone... This issue can also harm the STB.

IR repeaters/extenders can be affected in the same way and I've even found them to be more susceptible.


This problem has been seen many times. It was most evident when BTV made a firmware change, as outlined in the following thread.

9242: Firmware update V184 (Jan 19, 2010) Please read post 1 for IR Spray Issue - Canadian TV, Computing and Home Theatre Forums

Random changes on BTV/Telus Sat STBs can also be due to neighbours. Change the remote address and/or remove the UHF antenna.

Change the batteries in the remote and make sure you don't have any sticky buttons on the remote.

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Last edited by 57; 2014-08-12 at 10:22 AM. Reason: Update
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post #2 of 75 (permalink) Old 2007-06-03, 12:35 PM
 
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Higher backlight setting reduces inteference?

As I'm sure you'll recall, 57, the backlight on my LCD TV was interfering with the IR sensor on my STB, especially while the TV was warming up. See our exchanges at http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/show...=11102&page=33. The TV is a Sharp Aquos LC-46D62U.

Interestingly, the higher the backlight setting, the less serious the interference with the STB, which was an SA 3250HD. I found the STB worked most of the time if I had the TV backlight set to -1 in a range that ran from -16 to +16.

Last week, I switched to the SA 8300HD. The problem has completely disappeared. It would seem the 8300HD is less susceptible to IR interference than the 3250.
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post #3 of 75 (permalink) Old 2007-06-03, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, yes I remember, but what was the default backlight setting on the TV? For example, if the default setting was +16, then you lowered it to -1 to minimize interference?

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post #4 of 75 (permalink) Old 2007-06-03, 04:26 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57 View Post
Thanks, yes I remember, but what was the default backlight setting on the TV? For example, if the default setting was +16, then you lowered it to -1 to minimize interference?
The default for the backlight was zero, but I preferred to run it at minus 5 or minus 6. I raised it to minimize interference. The higher positive numbers give a much brighter image which I didn't like.

I hypothesized that the interference had something to do with dampening down the backlight. But who knows, eh?
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post #5 of 75 (permalink) Old 2007-06-03, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Perhaps we can get some feedback from others who had the issue and solved it... It certainly seems related to the backlight/setting.

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post #6 of 75 (permalink) Old 2007-06-03, 10:08 PM
 
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46d62u, 8300hd.. Can take 10 minutes + for issue to go away, quicker if I set the backlight to a high value.
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post #7 of 75 (permalink) Old 2007-06-04, 01:57 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Frogger View Post
46d62u, 8300hd.. Can take 10 minutes + for issue to go away, quicker if I set the backlight to a high value.
This was exactly my experience with this TV set, though only with the 3250HD. One fix was to raise the backlight to plus 16, its highest level.

Interestingly, I'm having no interference problem with the 8300HD.

I wonder if this LCD pumps out more infra-red when it is warming up or set to a lower backlight setting.
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post #8 of 75 (permalink) Old 2007-06-05, 01:34 PM
 
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I find on my 46D62U (with an 8300HD), the backlight generally has to be at -1 or lower to eliminate interference. Also, if aesthetics aren't a huge issue, you can also reduce the problem buy placing a few layers of scotch tape or a piece of fabric over the IR receiver on the the digital box. This helps filter out some of the stray IR noise being thrown off by the TV.
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post #9 of 75 (permalink) Old 2007-11-10, 12:37 PM
 
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I have tried the following:

1) moved the receiver further away from the LCD TV
2) turned the backlight on the LCD TV up to the maximum setting
3) changed the picture quality setting on the LCD TV from the 'vivid' setting to 'standard' setting
4) applied a few pieces of scotch tape over the sensor on the receiver

I'm still finding that this has not helped. Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Derek
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post #10 of 75 (permalink) Old 2007-11-10, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
turned the backlight on the LCD TV up to the maximum setting
Did you try the minimum setting, or a setting around the middle?

Did you try it with the TV off/unplugged? I'm assuming you could see the channels change or whatever on the front of the STB.

Do you have any CFs?

Is there any sunlight or bright light shining on the IR receiver?

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post #11 of 75 (permalink) Old 2007-11-28, 04:40 AM
 
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i used to have this problem where it would take up to several minutes before my IR remote control would work. during those ten minutes i have to literally stick the remote into the STB's IR reception window to gain control.

but now the problem is gone. i haven't been able to pin point the solution but i did make some changes.

i used to have backlight turned down to 0 but then changed it back up to 5 or 7 (out of 10) and the other significant change I recall is going from component cables to HDMI.
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post #12 of 75 (permalink) Old 2007-11-28, 07:23 AM
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The HotlinkPro site discusses IR interference from flat panel TVs. While this isn't the specific problem here, some of the solutions may be applicable.
http://hot-link.com/tech_support.htm
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post #13 of 75 (permalink) Old 2008-02-09, 02:36 AM
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bev 3100 remote and samsung lcd tvs

HEllo I had a problem with my bell 3100 recivers remote not working very well when i purchased a new sansung lcd. After many attempts at finding the problem ,i found that turning off the energy saving mode on my tv got rid of the interference and now works fine. hope this helps any of you.
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post #14 of 75 (permalink) Old 2008-02-09, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the comment. My guess is that the energy saver means that the TV is not kept warm when off - therefore it takes longer to warm up once you turn it on and longer before the interference stops.

Or did the problem still exist after a few minutes - once the TV was warm?

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post #15 of 75 (permalink) Old 2008-02-09, 02:49 PM
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my problem was that the remote on the 3100 would not function at all unless the remote was an inch away from the receiver. I was first thought it was my fish tanks compact fluorescents was maybe the problem.I turned off everything in the front room except the tv and receiver. I tried my old tv it worked fine.So then I read about the back light but it didn'tg make a difference. So then I went through the tv turning things off one at a time till we found that when the energy saver mode was off the remote will work fine. Nothing else seemed to make a difference. I still get a bit of interference when the tv first comes on but only for a few seconds. I dont know much about electronics but I know that this in my case made a difference.
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