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Old 2008-02-14, 12:50 AM   #16
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Hey Elvis,
Seems like your progressing! Pot lights loking good and nice price too!

Keep up the good work!
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Old 2008-02-14, 01:14 AM   #17
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those pot lights look familiar, if they us GU-10 base bulbs then I'd recommend sourcing 35W units rather than 50 watts bulbs. <ine were in a box of 12 for 120 bucks at HD.

I had a few ad the 50 watt ones would trip the thermal cut-out continually when I ran them at 100%.
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Old 2008-02-14, 01:24 AM   #18
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Bent is back! I guess this is related to early post which you have mentioned some like tripping brakeror some of the sort? Didn't you mention they were hard to find due to the odd wattage size?
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Old 2008-02-14, 01:34 AM   #19
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sort of...
the 50 watt light makes too much heat for the little can, there is a safety thermal cut-out installed to shut it down if there is too much heat.

a large lighting store will have or can source the 35 watt units, and the reduced light output will be negligable.
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Old 2008-02-14, 01:38 AM   #20
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OK, it is not the breaker due to dragging too much power but ratter the thermal being ther for potential fire due to the heat, great safety feature! I wonder how deep is the can, would there be enough space to hide compact fluorescent?
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Old 2008-02-15, 01:57 PM   #21
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Hey Technokid and Bent,
I looked at my lights and they are 50w, also went by HD to see if they had any of the compact fluorescents and they didn't, I will keep looking and see if they will work, if not I will get some 35w bulbs.

As you can see the light has clips that hold the bulb in so it can swivel side to side, not sure if the compact fluorescent would work very well, but I will give it a shot if I can find one.



Also took a pic of the can, I could get a bigger bulb in there, one the light is hooked up to the plug I have around a inch to play with.

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Old 2008-02-15, 05:08 PM   #22
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you aren't going to find a GU-10 based CFL.

If you have a dimmer, you won't run into any thermal cut-out problems with the 50 watt units if they aren't run at full brightness.
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Old 2008-02-15, 05:14 PM   #23
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ok thanks, yes they will be on dimmers and won't be on full brightness very often.
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Old 2008-02-15, 08:29 PM   #24
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it's not really a big deal if if the thermal trips - it resets on it's own and the light will come back on again - it'll just temporarilly make you think the bulb burnt out.
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Old 2008-02-15, 10:56 PM   #25
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Thanks Bent,

I taped out a 120in screen on my wall, it's around 1 inch from the ceiling and 26in from the floor. I have never owned a projector before and just wondering if I will be able to adjust the projector to work with this?

I of course can move it down a inch or 2 if needed.
As you can see it's a little dusty cause I just finished sweeping!!!

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Old 2008-02-15, 11:48 PM   #26
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I don't see this being a problem.In any event, youprobably don't want to drop any more since you want rows. Most projectors manufacturers have calculators on their sites.
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Old 2008-02-16, 12:01 AM   #27
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I have almost the exact same GU10 lights, but from HD, installed in my basement. I have them on a dimmer, but usually use them at full brightness without any issues.

One thing that you might want to consider is more lights in the centre section that can be dimmed and maybe even on a couple of separate switches. As mentioned previously, you'll want to be able to see when vacuuming.

I set mine up on 3 separate switches and all on dimmers. That gives me plenty of flexibility for watching movies, tv, etc as well as for entertaining, playing cards, and cleaning up.

Now is the time to do it, while you have everything open.
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Old 2008-02-16, 12:10 AM   #28
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Quote:
I taped out a 120in screen on my wall
Based on the photo, the aspect ratio doesn't look correct - looks like 1.5:1 instead of 1.78:1 (16:9)

You may also want to keep your camera out of the dust.
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Old 2008-02-16, 03:49 PM   #29
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Not sure how I messed up that measurement but I fixed it. 108x62, that looks better!

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Old 2008-02-17, 12:13 AM   #30
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Close, but I'd go 108 x 60.75, unless you want a 1" bar top or bottom for your final construction.
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