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#31 |
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Fall River, NS, Canada
Posts: 50
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I bought the Thomas and Betts compression crimper last year and use their compression fittings. I don't regret it one single bit. The tool strips the wire the way it exactly needs to be by spinning the tool on the wire... put the fitting on the wire, put the fitting in the tool, squeeze, and you're done.
I added a 9200 to my existing receivers, so got the SW44 and SW44A switches for the receivers, diplexor to tie in my cable modem to one of the rooms, and changed out for dish for dual sat. So I had a LOT of new wire and ends I had to put on. Using these fittings allowed me to do all of that quickly. And it was a necessity when making changes to any of the wiring involved my cable modem. Regular hex compression fitting doesn't provide enough signal for cable modems... I know... I tried that initially. Many of my friends and family are using EV as well, so use the tool to make alterations/repairs at their houses as well. - Steve |
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#32 |
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 170
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Thanks for the input! Is that the only manufacturer of the compression fittings?
__________________
Pioneer VSX-1015tx, Paradigm Titans, CC-270, ADP-170, PDR-12, Toshiba 42HL196, Expressvu 9200, 6100, 4100, Harmony 880 |
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#33 |
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Fall River, NS, Canada
Posts: 50
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Nope. I have seen other incarnations of the original T&B Snap-N-Seal connectors. As a matter of fact, I have seen them in the electrical section of Home Depot... Made by Ideal I believe...
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#34 |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Windsor ,Ont (Area)
Posts: 353
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Gouie,
I bought the Ideal brand from Home Depot ( $ 30 ?). These things work great ! I did however buy the wire stripper from the Source $12 - 16 ? It, also works great to prepare the wires. The electrician at work looked at them and the fittings and loved them. He said it gives you a connection as good if not better than factory. They work for both RG59 and RG6. Plus the Ideal brand work with atleast 5 -6 brands of connectors. |
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#35 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Alberta
Posts: 507
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Just for everyone's information, I talked to a company that does most of the BEV installations for Alberta. They sold me the "both ports power pass" splitters, but they did say that both will work. They indicated that if you use the ones with "one port power pass", that you MUST be careful with the installation and insure that input 1A from the LNB goes to 1A on both SW44's, 1B from the LNB goes to 1B on both SW44's, etc. (they said to wire it this way either way). Also, ensure that the "power pass port" on each input is connected to the same SW44, basically making one of the SW44's a master and one a slave.
I hope this helps everyone that has had this question, but couldn't find anyone to answer it. I contacted BEV several times and they seems surprized to find out that there are switches with single or all port power pass. I will be installing my second SW44 this weekend and will advise if there were any problems. |
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#36 |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 38
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I wouldn't go with the one side pass through. Depending on the other switch 44 sucks. The way the lnb's/switch works in simplistic form, you are designating one output of the lnb with 18v, while the other output of the lnb to 12V. When you access a channel through your receiver it will put voltage to the correct lnb input via the sw44 (master). If you access a channel from the receiver on the blocked dc splitter side, the sw44 will be unable to put voltage onto the lnb, thus depending on the master sw44 to place the voltage. eg. If you have all the receivers off on the master side, no voltage will be supplied to the lnb's, so the receivers on the dc blocked sw44 side will not work. Another example. If all the receivers are on the same channel on the master sw44 side, then the dc blocked sw44 will only have access to half the possible channels.
Go with a high frequency splitter without any dc blocking Dubble |
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#37 |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 38
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Digicon works great aswell. Just make sure it fits ok into the compression tool. I had to exchange my tool cause it wouldn't physically fit. The old tool did fit the thomas and bretts snap and seal. The digicons in my opinnion looks better, the satellite installer used the T&B connectors.
Dubble |
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#38 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Alberta
Posts: 507
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I agree 100%. I wish that the people selling these devices would know this though. I did buy the "all port power pass" model and don't anticipate any issues.
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#39 |
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Milton, ON
Posts: 682
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__________________
BEV 9242, 6131s | Samsung HL67A750 | Pioneer VSX-919AH-K | Cerwin Vega VE-15s, VE-5C, VE-5M |
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#40 |
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 170
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Thanks guys. I ended up buying the one at Home Depot. What a difference in preparation. Much easier than the crimp style. I got speaking with the guy there and his explanation of why these connectors are better made a lot of sense. He was explaining that any alteration of the center of the cable (the white conductor) will degrade the signal. The crimp style connectors compress this part of the cable causing loss where as the commpression fittings do not.
__________________
Pioneer VSX-1015tx, Paradigm Titans, CC-270, ADP-170, PDR-12, Toshiba 42HL196, Expressvu 9200, 6100, 4100, Harmony 880 |
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#41 |
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 24
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Hi everyone,
I have my BEV dish setup with dual LNB's and a SW21 (setup outside at the dish, by Bell) with a single cable coming into my living room. I have a spare 3120 IRD that I would like to hook up into our bedroom. My question is, can it be done at all without running additional cables from my LNB's ? Im not sure if this could be achieved with a SW44 (kinda overkil for my purpose). Thanks In Advance AK Last edited by AK_Sniper; 2006-01-30 at 01:35 PM. Reason: Giving more precise info in title |
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#42 |
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Premium Supporter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Calgary
Posts: 3,896
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There is no such thing as "splitting" in the satellite world. If you were to attempt it, it would only work if both receivers were on the same transponder at the same time; which is pretty rare.
Get an SW44. It's not overkill, it just does exactly what somebody in you position needs it to do.
__________________
"There are 10 types of people in this world; those who understand binary and those who don't." |
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#43 |
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 24
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Thanks for the response ken.
So if I understand correctly, my dish at its mount has two short cables going into a SW21 switch. From that SW21 I have one cable entering my home and into my living room feeding my 6100. So I would disconnect the 6100 from that single line, plug that line into one of the satellite inputs on a SW44 switch. Then from that switch It will send off the signal back to my 6100 and to my additional 3100. Correct ??? I forgot to mention earlier that I do use the HD channels on my 6100. So with this setup in theory I could get all channels from both LNB's on both IRD's ??? It would be nice if it will get MuchLOUD and those addl music channels on the 3100 as well... AK
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Panasonic PT-53X54 ExpressVu 6100 (HD) Panasonic SC-HT730 Sony RDR-HX900 Harmony 659 Remote |
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#44 | ||
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 846
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Quote:
Quote:
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#45 |
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 24
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Alright, I figured it was too good to be true just using a SW44 on a single joint line inside the home to split the signal...
So either way I have to run another line into my home then...I don't plan to ever upgrade to more than 2 IRD's anyways so I was hoping to avoid having to run an extra line but alright, thats the way I gotta do it then! (Guess it will have to wait till summer, no way im climbing on my icy roof this winter Thanks West. AK
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Panasonic PT-53X54 ExpressVu 6100 (HD) Panasonic SC-HT730 Sony RDR-HX900 Harmony 659 Remote |
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