Garage Door Opener Problem - Canadian TV, Computing and Home Theatre Forums

numba1killa · 2012-05-20, 11:29 PM

Hi everyone, I have a 1984 Sears/Craftsman Garage Door Opener, and I've encountered a problem today, they door would start to go up, then stop half way, and then when I went to close it, it would go down about a foot then back up to where it prematurely stopped! I checked the gear, and it looks fine, and I checked the limit switch to see if it got cranked back by accident but nothing! I know this is an older unit but I don't like the new units, they have safety eyes and don't last as long as the older ones, PLUS their is a lot more plastic in them and less appealing to the eye (IMO), If anyone could help me out that would be great!

57 · 2012-05-21, 12:08 AM

There is usually a "release" that allows you to move the door manually. Move it up and down by hand to make sure it's not binding anywhere. A bind will cause the clutch to engage and usually stops the door, although it often then reverses and the lights will "flash" indicating an issue.

Clutch problem? If there is a clutch adjustment, you could give that a try.

numba1killa · 2012-05-21, 12:31 PM

no on this sears unit, there are no "flashing lights" to indicate a problem the unit is WAY too old for that, I did move the door up and down by hand as you said, and it didn't seem to stick anywhere in particular. I tried to operate the door today, and it seemed to open fine, But before it would activate, it made a few clicking soounds .... ?

57 · 2012-05-21, 01:10 PM

Perhaps a couple of the teeth on the gears are broken? (Assuming it has gears). Good luck. Don't use it too many times in a row for testing so that it doesn't overheat.

numba1killa · 2012-05-21, 04:32 PM

This unit has a belt in it, and the belt seems fine ... I will do some trial and error later, thanks for the help sir. I really appreciate it !

HDTV101 · 2012-05-21, 06:24 PM

I had a problem like that... it turned out to be one of the 2 big springs that act as a counter balance. Basically the springs, which are part of the door, counter the weight of the door... without them you can't even lift the door since it weighs something like 400 Lbs. The poor garage door opener is now trying to lift this massive weight... and it can't. Be careful unlatching the door from the openers track as the door will drop like a rock! I had no idea how heavy these door are until that spring broke. Also it's NOT a do it yourself fix... the guy that came over to fix mine... it was a very tricky thing to replace and he had special tools to wind the new spring up.

Jake · 2012-05-22, 09:36 AM

I had a similar issue. It turned out a part of the frame was rubbing against the door. When I manually opened and closed the door it did not rub so it took me a while to isolate it. When the door is being lifted by the motor it extends slightly and would catch on the frame due to a long segment. When I lifted it from the handle on the bottom it could remain compressed and slide smoothly. I adjusted the part slightly and it never happened again. I can't picture exactly where on the frame it was but on the door it was at the V-shaped hinges that protrude on the back of the door panels.

Menace Storm · 2012-05-22, 01:50 PM

If you tried the door manually & it is working fine then the problem is definately in the opener. You said you heard some clicking noises. Sounds like the problem is electrical.
These old units have relays inside that control the motor actions. As the opener gets older the relays get weaker & the contacts can become burned. The clicking sound can be the relay chattering which can cause premature stops in the door travel when the relay disengages prematurely due to weak relay coil or burned contacts. Don't know if replacement relays are still available for this old unit, not really worth putting any money into an old unit like that.

asd · 2012-05-22, 04:25 PM

I had the same Sears/Craftsman vintage opener and the teeth did go so the opener struggled. A repairman replaced the gear and it was working fine when we sold the house two years ago. Those openers were built to last.

BTW, I also had a spring break on the big heavy double garage door and that is a job for a technician, absolutely. But if you can open the door and it slides reasonably, well with human force, the door is likely fine. The springs might need adjusting, though -- tech job not for an amateur. The opener has to work too hard if the door springs aren't balanced, which might have worn the teeth on the opener.

numba1killa · 2012-05-22, 10:19 PM

Quote:

If you tried the door manually & it is working fine then the problem is definately in the opener. You said you heard some clicking noises. Sounds like the problem is electrical.
These old units have relays inside that control the motor actions. As the opener gets older the relays get weaker & the contacts can become burned. The clicking sound can be the relay chattering which can cause premature stops in the door travel when the relay disengages prematurely due to weak relay coil or burned contacts. Don't know if replacement relays are still available for this old unit, not really worth putting any money into an old unit like that.

My unit does indeed have electronic relays ... thats what that clicking sound is!!!! Is there anyway to get a fix for it ...even if it is temporary?

Menace Storm · 2012-05-23, 11:57 PM

If the contacts inside the relays are dirty or burned you can try & clean them or lightly file them to make better contact. If the coils inside the relays are weak though, the only way to repair is replace the relays. I wouldn't waste any money on repairs though, better off just replacing opener.

2012-05-20, 11:29 PM	#1
numba1killa Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: SSM Canada Posts: 266	Garage Door Opener Problem Hi everyone, I have a 1984 Sears/Craftsman Garage Door Opener, and I've encountered a problem today, they door would start to go up, then stop half way, and then when I went to close it, it would go down about a foot then back up to where it prematurely stopped! I checked the gear, and it looks fine, and I checked the limit switch to see if it got cranked back by accident but nothing! I know this is an older unit but I don't like the new units, they have safety eyes and don't last as long as the older ones, PLUS their is a lot more plastic in them and less appealing to the eye (IMO), If anyone could help me out that would be great!

2012-05-21, 12:08 AM	#2
57 Moderator Join Date: May 2002 Location: Toronto, Rogers, 8300HD, eHDD, Panasonic TCP65S1, Denon AVR4310Ci; 8300HD, eHDD & Sony KDL40W3000 Posts: 50,301	There is usually a "release" that allows you to move the door manually. Move it up and down by hand to make sure it's not binding anywhere. A bind will cause the clutch to engage and usually stops the door, although it often then reverses and the lights will "flash" indicating an issue. Clutch problem? If there is a clutch adjustment, you could give that a try. __________________ 57's Home Theatre (Latest equipment & photos) 57's Optimization Services (Home Theatre Optimization)

2012-05-21, 01:10 PM	#4
57 Moderator Join Date: May 2002 Location: Toronto, Rogers, 8300HD, eHDD, Panasonic TCP65S1, Denon AVR4310Ci; 8300HD, eHDD & Sony KDL40W3000 Posts: 50,301	Perhaps a couple of the teeth on the gears are broken? (Assuming it has gears). Good luck. Don't use it too many times in a row for testing so that it doesn't overheat. __________________ 57's Home Theatre (Latest equipment & photos) 57's Optimization Services (Home Theatre Optimization)

2012-05-22, 09:36 AM	#7
Jake Moderator Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Gatineau and Ottawa Posts: 10,193	I had a similar issue. It turned out a part of the frame was rubbing against the door. When I manually opened and closed the door it did not rub so it took me a while to isolate it. When the door is being lifted by the motor it extends slightly and would catch on the frame due to a long segment. When I lifted it from the handle on the bottom it could remain compressed and slide smoothly. I adjusted the part slightly and it never happened again. I can't picture exactly where on the frame it was but on the door it was at the V-shaped hinges that protrude on the back of the door panels. __________________ Tip: See an offending post? Don't reply, report it by clicking on the 'Report Post' icon.

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2012-05-21, 12:31 PM	#3
numba1killa Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: SSM Canada Posts: 266	no on this sears unit, there are no "flashing lights" to indicate a problem the unit is WAY too old for that, I did move the door up and down by hand as you said, and it didn't seem to stick anywhere in particular. I tried to operate the door today, and it seemed to open fine, But before it would activate, it made a few clicking soounds .... ?

2012-05-21, 04:32 PM	#5
numba1killa Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: SSM Canada Posts: 266	This unit has a belt in it, and the belt seems fine ... I will do some trial and error later, thanks for the help sir. I really appreciate it !

2012-05-21, 06:24 PM	#6
HDTV101 Veteran Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 2,000	I had a problem like that... it turned out to be one of the 2 big springs that act as a counter balance. Basically the springs, which are part of the door, counter the weight of the door... without them you can't even lift the door since it weighs something like 400 Lbs. The poor garage door opener is now trying to lift this massive weight... and it can't. Be careful unlatching the door from the openers track as the door will drop like a rock! I had no idea how heavy these door are until that spring broke. Also it's NOT a do it yourself fix... the guy that came over to fix mine... it was a very tricky thing to replace and he had special tools to wind the new spring up.

2012-05-22, 01:50 PM	#8
Menace Storm Rookie Join Date: May 2012 Posts: 2	If you tried the door manually & it is working fine then the problem is definately in the opener. You said you heard some clicking noises. Sounds like the problem is electrical. These old units have relays inside that control the motor actions. As the opener gets older the relays get weaker & the contacts can become burned. The clicking sound can be the relay chattering which can cause premature stops in the door travel when the relay disengages prematurely due to weak relay coil or burned contacts. Don't know if replacement relays are still available for this old unit, not really worth putting any money into an old unit like that.

2012-05-22, 04:25 PM	#9
asd Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Annapolis Valley Posts: 368	I had the same Sears/Craftsman vintage opener and the teeth did go so the opener struggled. A repairman replaced the gear and it was working fine when we sold the house two years ago. Those openers were built to last. BTW, I also had a spring break on the big heavy double garage door and that is a job for a technician, absolutely. But if you can open the door and it slides reasonably, well with human force, the door is likely fine. The springs might need adjusting, though -- tech job not for an amateur. The opener has to work too hard if the door springs aren't balanced, which might have worn the teeth on the opener.

2012-05-23, 11:57 PM	#11
Menace Storm Rookie Join Date: May 2012 Posts: 2	If the contacts inside the relays are dirty or burned you can try & clean them or lightly file them to make better contact. If the coils inside the relays are weak though, the only way to repair is replace the relays. I wouldn't waste any money on repairs though, better off just replacing opener.