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#1 |
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 23
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Hi folks,
Seeing some new posts on that great DIY A/V rack thread as well as a similar one in the Photos thread reminded me I really need a solution for my rack. Unfortunately the environment is a little different which is going for force some creativity to have something that looks good. I have a number of caveats, but I would love to hear opinions from people despite them. I don't mind "getting over" one or some of them if the end result is going to justify it. But I also love the idea of cheap, easy and simple. Here's what it looks like right now: ![]() Here are the caveats: - It's in a recess in the concrete for a fireplace. Therefore there is no 'rear access'. - While I know I don't have to use this space for my components (I could cut a hole on the opposite wall) but.. I've just put all the wires from the PJ and Speakers to this area to-code and I can't imagine what else I would do with the space. - It's only "so-deep". I use UPS's which take up a fair amount of space in the overall depth of the shelves. I think it'll just work, but it means I'm going to loose some flexibility... especially when it comes to the HTPC case - The HTPC is in a tower case. I plan to put it into a desktop case. - The stage and seating is too close to allow unrestricted access to the bottom 1/3rd of it. Therefore this area should be more or less covered for storage or something. Stage and Seating really can't be moved. They're in the optimum position which is far more important than how the AV rack looks. - Not sure what to do about exhausting some of the heat, so I'm concerned a bit about covering it all completely. Though perhaps some simple thin horizontally spanning vents up top would work.. (obviously there's no rear heat exhaust possibility). I'm not sure if I can just vent it into the drop ceiling... I guess the definition of plenum is only when it comes to return air... this wouldn't be return air... so.... I dunno. - This area is located in front of the rear seats and just to the left of the front row of seating. lights and such for components positioned to the right of the "rack" are in your peripheral. Due to tight cable length constraints on existing cable I had, I'm not sure I can move some components to the left. My (so-called) Ideas so-far: - Split it in half, put some new MDF right down the middle between shelves on the whole thing, and then place a piece of vertical trim matching the side trim right down the middle. Use one side for components, the other side for binders that will hold my rather large DVD collection (thereby freeing up some space/clutter), along with the video game collection, controllers, etc...Being able to use drawers here to store that stuff would be brilliant.. but trying to find something to match or that's paintable may prove a challenge... I guess I would build fascias for each component, but beyond being time consuming it doesn't cover the problem of having the components in such proximity to the viewers. Right now fan noise from the 360, HTPC or PS3 is audible at all times, most prevalent from the left most seat. It would be nice to squash that issue. While I could water cool the HTPC, it wouldn't come close to solving the game console issues and since the PS3 is the BD player and the 360 is the HDDVD player, I need another solution. - Build some sort of sliding door (2 panes, each 1/2 of the total width) on the exterior. Tinted glass to hide the various distracting LED's and such the components as well as eliminate any ingenuity in trying to hide all these cables (which without rear access is... futile I think.. coax just doesn't bundle up and I have cables comeing down fron the top (as you can see). While I think this idea may be a winner I just have no idea where to find such materials or really if this is the ultimate design. Maybe each shelf should use a vertically pivoting glass door? But I like the flexibility of this one.. I can change components (which I undoubtably will, several times over in the next 5 years).. gives me fairly easy access to the components too and will give a proper tidy look when the doors are closed. Also I think IR will work through a tinted glass... this said I can certainly mount a little repeater on the exterior. Any ideas, would be quite helpful. Thanks! |
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#2 |
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Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: MB
Posts: 1,788
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I have no rack ideas unless you can create a rear access - if so, search for the finerack at AVS.
Mine, shown below, is a version of it. ![]() LArry Fine's website shows how he did his. http://www.fineelectricco.com/System.html
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I'm a sleep expert. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 26
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Hi WiredRacing,
I've a couple of quick ideas maybe to 'kick around' - I think your biggest issue will be heat dissipation, especially the PS3 and the AVR pumping out a lot of heat. If you do close up the front, you could perhaps use a bathroom fan (like a quiet Panasonic high CFM model) to pull air from the top, and use some vented panels or slots in the bottom of the face to provide cooler air access. As to where to shunt the air, could it be sent up through where the 'original fireplace' was to vent? Or in lieu of that, maybe into the cavity for the drop ceiling? Another alternative would be to incorporate a rack-style faceplate near the top with several fans to pull the air out - although, you would likely then just create more fan noise for the seating just adjacent.... Another consideration with covering the opening, is access to the components - changing DVDs, Wii games and such. I found that I constantly change media so often that a door system would end up being a little inconvenient over the long run. As well, the heat would have to be able to travel up and through the shelving to reach to top of the cabinet, or else it would risk creating a lot of buildup between shelves (I found this out once with an oak entertainment unit I had built, and toasted an amp since there was nowhere for the heat to rise up and out I would consider beefing up the shelving - I can see some 'bending' starting there already, and if you add more gear, you may end up with problems down the road. What about metal shelving? You could maybe use that pre-made white closet wire rack shelving (properly supported), and that would provide free airflow between the components, and you could space them so that it leaves you room to swap stuff out over time (maybe 5-6" per shelf). Equipment feet can be stabilized by placing small pieces of 1/4 wood underneath so that there's no tipping or wobble. For the front, you could then either go with tinted glass or plexi on a hinged door of sorts. Or, you could fashion up some faceplates out of MDF or aluminum attached to a 'door frame' that would allow you to have access to the rear when needed, but leave the component faces exposed when the door is closed (you could cut the plates leaving a little more 'wiggle room' to allow for the open/closing tolerance around each unit). Anyhoo, just some quick thoughts/ideas - I hope you might find something of value!! Cheers, and good luck on the project! Tom |
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#4 |
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Rookie
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1
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How about a slide and spin rack from Middle Atlantic or a racking company? I've used them in many applications and depending on the depth you have they are very easy to use. You can even get them in custom sizes if you have sizing restrictions, just a thought.
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 353
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Bingo! Good call homeconcepts! MA racks aren't cheap, but they pull out on a track, and swivel around for access to your goodies! You can accessorize them to with things like smoke glass doors, cooling fans (which you'll need anyway no question)
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#6 |
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: markham ontario canada
Posts: 340
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i've used the sliding/swivel MA racks before.. they are really handy to gain access to the back if you are not backing into a closet with access behind. but if you don't have enough depth, the cable management can be a pain [you need enough space for the slack to loop in without getting pinched]
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nick leinonen |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 353
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Which brings about the point I've had forever. Why don't these brilliant designers/engineers of CE components design everything to be 6-8" deep max? I'm sure it could be done, plus it gets rid of all the depth/bulk. You spend your money on a nice flat panel tv, then you have to house the necessary AVR, DVD, etc in a stand that'll stick out a foot beyond the panel anyway...silliness! It'll only get uglier as TVs get slimmer ie. Elite 101/141, Panny Z1, OLED etc. Unless you can hide it it another room or deep closet, it ruins a nice looking room.
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Calgary, Bell
Posts: 828
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Quote:
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#9 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 353
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Ha!! My little girl is only 9mths...guess I'll be agreeing with you soon than later! Luckily my panel is 36" to the bottom, and on the wall well enough to withstand a blast!!
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#10 |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mississauga, ON
Posts: 34
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To 1tribeca: He he he. Wait until they get into their throwing phase...
To the OP: I like your 'split it in half' option. I have a similar shelving dilemma as you do, except without the shelving (I just have the nook - 30" w x 72" h x 20" d). Other than adding some more shelving and then trimming accordingly for your nice finish, I think that addressing the cable/wire situation will go a long way toward the clean, professional look you seek. |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,028
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yah i dunno the simplest option i would think is to create a false wall/backing to hide all the cables. once you do that the shelfves would look 100% times neeter. no need for new dividers and such. just add more shelves to fill your needs.
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#12 |
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Calgary, Bell
Posts: 828
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Just buy more gear... that will hide the wires
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#13 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 353
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"He he he. Wait until they get into their throwing phase..."
Yup, and there'll be a big fat padlock on the door to the HT at that point!!! |
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