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Multiswitch Discussions

214K views 389 replies 106 participants last post by  frenchophile 
#1 ·
When we ordered our 630 yesterday, our deal included the installation of a multiswitch. I'm not sure if it's the 4 X 8 or the 5 X 8. Anyway, I must admit, I'm not entirely sure what the purpose of it is. We will have four lines when the installation is complete. My understanding from what I've read here is that you need all four lines to use the multiswitch. We will then have a 630, a 530 and a 505. That's why we received the multiswitch. So, let's say we plug in all three receivers. What is the benefit of this? We still only have the programming available on four separate feeds at the same time, right? It isn't like we suddenly have eight separate feeds available to us just because we have the multiswitch, right? So, in theory, we can record two things on the 630, one thing on the 530 and watch the other feed off the 530. That's four. What can the 505 do separately from this if it's plugged into the multiswitch? Do you understand what I'm asking? I know this may seem like a lame question, but honestly I don't understand it and the threads I've read don't clarify it for me. By the way, I'm also happy to read an explanatory thread. If someone knows of one, that would be great if you would paste in the thread.

The Hans
 
#59 ·
I don't know but doubt the multiswitch would correct itself. I do know that software upgrades can cause and solve all sorts of unintended happenings. This is due to hardware registry, memory, etc. etc. use hardware problems.
.13 was extremely stable compared to .10 for me.
 
#60 ·
Here's a fun one

I have an interesting issue I have never seen or heard of before. The system was 4-530s & 1-505 hooked up through 1 AE 4x8 (1 530 only had one line and was being used for tv only, no recording, hence 8 outputs was enough). Wanted to run second line to that 530 and add a 630 so installed a 2nd AE 4x8 in cascade (4 outputs from 1st MS to inputs on 2nd MS). None of the receivers on the second MS would get signal from anything other than 13V/0kHz. Logic points to 2nd MS not switching = bad MS right. Here is where it gets interesting, just for kicks I hooked up the 2 MS in parallel with 4 power pass splitters. I was somewhat surprised that with this setup all receivers worked on 13V/0kHz, 18V/0kHz & 13V/22kHz but none worked on 18V/22kHz. I then discovered that the receivers on either MS worked on 18V/22kHz so long as only 1 MS was attached to the splitter but as soon as the other MS was connected no signal. Swapped out that splitter, no change. Swapped the splitter with one of the others, no change. Due to time constraints that is all the testing I did. Anyone ever run into anything like this or any ideas of the cause?
 
#61 ·
My understanding is you should not "cascade" Multiswithes but rather use power pass splitters (somewhat like your second attempt) but the correct connection is critical so the "legs" are the same off the splitter into the multiswitches.

It doesn't matter which leg off the LNB goes to each splitter but when you come out of each splitter the output must both go to the same input on their corresponding multiswitch. The first splitter output goes to both 18V inputs on the multiswitches; the second splitter output goes to both 13V inputs on the multiswitches; the 3rd splitter output goes to both 18V/22KHz inputs on the multiswitches; and the 4rth splitter output goes to both 13V/22KHz inputs on the multiswitches.

http://www.prosatellitesupply.com/PDF_Files/Aspen_Eagle_16_Receivers.pdf

In this manner each LNB input will always be tuned to one setting and no conflicts will occur by the multiswitch sending conflicting requests to the LNB. The only diagram I could find quickly is on the link. The diagram indicates a single leg power pass on the splitters but there are lots available cheap that pass power on both legs.



I hope this is helpful.;)
 
#66 ·
5X8 Multi Switch

I'm sure this is answered somewhere but I cant find it. I have 4 coax lines running from Starchoice dish into my house. A friend gave me an Eagle Aspen 5X8 multiswitch so I can hook up another set.

Does it matter which of the 4 wires go into the sat in connections or is there a specific order? Also, if I dont use ll of the outputs, do I need to put terminators on them. I will not be using the cable/antenna input.

Thanks!!
 
#68 ·
I'm sure this is answered somewhere but I cant find it. I have 4 coax lines running from Starchoice dish into my house. A friend gave me an Eagle Aspen 5X8 multiswitch so I can hook up another set.

Does it matter which of the 4 wires go into the sat in connections or is there a specific order? Also, if I dont use ll of the outputs, do I need to put terminators on them. I will not be using the cable/antenna input.

Thanks!!
I've just been down this road. Input order is random for the 4 cables. Capping off to prevent moisture ingress is a good idea if mounted outside or near water. No need for terminations just plastic caps.
 
#70 ·
I couldn't find one released officially by SD but they seem to prefer the Eagle Aspen in their literature. (Or a Zinwell multiswitch)


https://secure.shawdirect.ca/english/store/download/5X8_multiswitch_spec_sheet.pdf

But there seem to be lots of others. I bought the Philips SDW5058 Satellite Multiswitch primarily because it was 5X8 and outdoor rated. Whereas the Eagle Aspen version was indoor rated only. ;)
 
#72 ·
I ordered a 5x8 switch from Shaw Direct this year, and received one manufactured by Pico Macom (www.picomacom.com). It is labelled TRUSPEC TSMS-5/8. It works really well, with either a stacked or non-stacked LNB (2 or 4 ports). If used with a stacked LNB, the 13V inputs are used.

For your compatibility question, I note that the switch is labelled "DIRECTv Compatible".
 
#74 ·
If the Zinwell switch doesn't need a power supply, does that mean the signals from the dish are not amplified?? The Pico-Macom switch amplifies all 8 outputs, and I noticed an improvement in signal level at the receivers. Maybe that accounts for the difference in cost ....
 
#75 ·
You are correct. Most powered switches typically boost the signal by 1.5 dB to overcome insertion losses. I think that's why there seems to be a move in that direction, and away from passive devices. (Even though powering them can be a pain in the butt.)

However, I have seen posts where folks advise no degradation in signal (and in one case higher) with a un-powered switch. Of course these devices can pull some power from the recievers they are connected to, but I am uncertain if that practice is desireable with the new recievers (think 630 & 605) that SD has recently rolled out.
 
#81 ·
The easier way...

Gents,

There is no technical rational to use 2 dishes for this project. All you need is 2 multiswitches, and 4 two way, one port power passing high frequency splitters (or 5 if you are using a 5X8 multiswitch configuration. ). You'll also save a lot of cable!

Just make sure the "legs" are the same going into each multiswitch from each high frequency splitter (the 13V, 18V, 13V with 22KHz, and 18 with 22KHz). All Multiswitches are labled so it's pretty simple. You don't need to use Eagle Aspen.



Larger Multiswitches are available but the costs go up very dramatically. You can grab a Phillips SWD5058/17 5X8 Multiswitch from Princess Auto for about $35, or something off eBay for even less.



I'd pull all 4 feeds from your Quad LNB inside the house, and mount all the devices on plywood. Then feed the output of the Multiswitches to any Tuner / Reciever. Mine is outside so my neighbor can connect using his own Shaw Direct account. He helped out a ton with a very tough install so it was the least I could do.

If you are using a 5X8 Multiswitch you'll also need some diplexers for those TVs where you need to un-multiplex the mixed signal.



I hope this is helpful.
 
#82 ·
Aspen Eagle, Terk, Phillips . . . all 5x8 multiswitches (which I need).

For a Shaw Direct Quad LNB dish, will they all perform equally as well? Are they all indoor/outdoor, or are some more fragile outdoors?
What about the "antenna" aspect - all good performers there?

Owners, please comment.
Thanks
 
#83 ·
I researched various multiswitches and found few that were outdoor rated. As you can see my experience is only recent with the Phillips unit and so far it's working fine. I'm mounting it outdoors, where it should be inside an enclosure of some sort to shield it from the elements (particularly water in it's various forms in winter) and mechanical damage by people and animals.

I've got a 20 X 10 inch plastic enclosure designed for telephone / cable systems for it. It's water resistant to about NEMA 4 enclosure level and quite robust. The photo of the multiswitch is just the temporary install to acertain 100% system functionality. Even the F connectors used will be changed to an outdoor moisture resistant type. I'm contemplating using dielectric grease as well.
 
#84 ·
My first installation by a *C technician was a stacked elliptical dish with a 2 x 2 multiswitch strapped to the dish arm. Even with proper "weatherproofed" connectors, within a year the cable ends corroded and ruined the switch.
The second installer finally found a hard-to-come-by 2 X 2 switch replacement and installed the cable ends with boot covered connectors. That last a little longer.
I had Shaw replace with the quad lnb's at the time I installed the Eagle Aspen 4 x 8 multiswitch in the shed below the dish. I have had no moisture issues since.
Moral of the story: I don't trust outside placement of multiswitches, even if they claim to be outdoor rated.
 
#85 ·
It is for sure better to install your multiswitch inside, and if that is not possible like Jimsathome mentioned buy a small plastic encloser to put the switch in.

tvmaster, the Eagle Aspen powered S-4180-GX+ switch & the Zinwell WB68 non powered switch have been great for me.
 
#89 ·
It's quite common for me to see Bell /Telus Dishes here in Greater Vancouver with switches hanging off them but they don't have a potenial for 8 outputs (only 4).

I too strongly urge you to pull the 4 Cables into someplace warm and dry, install the multiswitch (powered or unpowered) and distribute the signal from there.
 
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