|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|2017-11-08 12:06 PM|
|Jase88||As mentioned above, a classic locking terminator. If you don't intend to use this spigot on the splitter, leave the terminator on to prevent signal leakage. Signal leakage (from cable TV systems) is tested for by both the cable company and the government, to prevent interference with licensed radio services. If leakage at your home is detected, a cable tech will eventually visit to investigate.|
|2017-11-08 12:01 PM|
It's a coax security lock/terminator as "classicsat" indicated.
If you look down inside the open hole, you'll probably see two notches on opposite sides. If so, you can make a removal tool out of an old metal 4-prong fork (Google it). Just make sure that you don't use one out of the "good" set of dinnerware.
|2017-11-07 11:28 AM|
|classicsat||Open terminator. Its purpose is to prevent unauthorized connection to a coax port, in this case the 3.5dB port, because that signal is too hot to reliably use for anything. 7dB is enough attenuation of the signal.|
|2017-11-04 06:34 PM|
|arnyc||Its just one cable in, 2 out - the whole installation. This component reminds me a G-trap or noise trap, but inside there are no visible locking elements one can use to remove it.|
|2017-11-04 06:23 PM|
|majortom||I guess I am confused why your photo shows a splitter and the filter standalone sitting on a table or sumthin. Take a picture of exactly what you have in YOUR installation now and post a picture of it as is.|
|2017-11-04 05:13 PM|
|arnyc||The splitter was added due to line signals levels too high for the modem spec. However, this attached component doesn't look like a filter used to block certain frequencies, since there is no way to attach coax cable to it. Its threaded probably for attaching the removal tool only. Given this, can it be a hack component, like traffic mirroring? Or its a noise (return path) filter on an unused splitter connector?|
|2017-11-04 04:58 PM|
further, if internet only service, why would they install a splitter at all??
incoming cable should just go directly to the modem, shouldn't it?
Around here, for Internet + TV they also used a 3 way splitter with the modem connected to the -3.5 dB down port,
and the TVs to the -7 dB down port. Later, when I got my own modem, I put my own 4 way splitter in instead,
and ran two modems (mine for data plus theirs for voice) and two TVs, so all are equal -7 dB down now.
|2017-11-04 04:09 PM|
It's probably a FILTER....and the Cable Tech would use a SPECIAL TOOL to remove it. Fol. TOOL is "probably" what is used to remove it [unless it is designed to use some other type TOOL:
1) Filter could be a PASS BAND FILTER which only allows Internet Freqs to pass....so you can't watch regular TV...ONLY ON THAT PORT...which begs the questions as to why it wasn't attached to Splitter INPUT so it blocks watching TV on ALL ports....
2) Filter PASSES ALL CATV Freqs (up thru 860 or 1002 MHz, depending on your CATV System) and BLOCKS the higher MOCA Freqs used for Multi-Room DVR's and User Owned File Servers (i.e. PC or Network Attached Storage Device) to DLNA Player Devices (i.e. DTV and/or BD/UD-Player).
|2017-11-04 02:41 PM|
A cable TV tech installed a splitter today on an internet only line, and added this component to one of its ports. It has no marks at all, is press-fitted, impossible to detach with pliers or unscrew, its housing rotates freely. It's threaded on an open end, but no cable jack or plug attachment possible, just empty hole inside till half-way in. Can anyone say what this component purpose may be, what telcos use it in ON, what make & model it is, who manufactures them, how I can find its specs? Is there any way to remove it at all? What are alternative models? Can it have a different purpose than it looks?
|2017-05-03 07:20 PM|
Unless they could be aligned / retuned by yourself, I might wait until the new TV spectrum is implemented.
I don't think notching anything in the VHF band is going to help your CH 9. You may get some help notching the Grand Island UHF stations. So you can steer closer to CN tower.
There is really no way to evaluate without having one in your hands though...
chinadog, I am 3 miles SSE from you so I will send you a pm so as not to get off topic.
But if you look at my TVFool compared to yours, the weak signals your looking for are about 5 dB stronger here,
while the strongest signals getting in the way, are slightly weaker here.
|2017-05-03 08:00 AM|
UHF Quad Bandstop Filter
Can anyone evaluate the performance of the "UHF Quad Bandstop Filter" made by JJ electronics in Slovakia? These filters can be set to attenuate up to four frequencies by 30 dbs. They are currently on sale on e-bay
I am trying to improve reception of weak signals (rf9, rf19,rf20) in virtually the same direction as three very strong signals:
|2017-04-29 09:08 AM|
An estimated signal report for don_0110 (he hasn't yet posted a tvfool.com report) shows very strong local signals that can cause partial tuner overload making it more difficult to receive the weaker US signals. If you click on Pending in the report, you will see CBFT and CBMT that are even stronger than CFTM.
coordinates used for estimated Oka report:
CBFT -31.1 dBm + 12 dBd ant + 24 dB 7777 + 20 dB RCA DA = +24.9 dBm; preamp and tuner overload when the antenna is aimed at CBFT.
Also, the signal enhancement of the US signals from Tropospheric Propagation does not happen all year round.
The red highlighted "a" next to the WCAX callsign in the report indicates adjacent channel interference.
|2017-04-28 09:07 PM|
+1 ^^ for checking the DC power anytime you have a preamp in the system and are having a sudden problem that wasn't there before.
Also about 6 weeks ago is when some serious heavy weather was running through, around here at least. Checking weatherunderground history, and sure enough I see heavy snow and 60 MPH wind gusts around that time in Plattsburgh.
Sometimes water can ingress to your coax cables, balun, etc. Now that spring has sprung it would be a good time to go up top and go through everything.
Curious why you would need a distribution amp on top of an antenna mounted preamp?
A passive splitter should suffice where the downlead enters the house...no?
|2017-04-28 07:16 PM|
|El Gran Chico||Don, I had a similar problem a few years ago. I bought myself a multimeter for about $20 at CT or HD or some such place. Turned out there was no voltage on the RG6 that went into the pre-amp from the power inserter. Replaced the coax and bingo! Everyone happy again. I also learned a multimeter is also very useful to test pretty much everything from the antenna to the coax input on your tuner. Replaced some less-than ideal-homemade cables and many of my old problems are gone. That multimeter may have been my best OTA purchase (well the attenuators were a pretty good purchase too).|
|2017-04-28 05:57 PM|
|holl_ands||We need to see your TVFool.com Results....after entering your location to get Results, Copy/Paste URL (Weblink) at TOP of Browser into a post on this Thread.|
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