I'm new to the forum and I am building a SGBH GH10.

Pictures I have seen on this forum show 2" X 4" mesh wire as the reflector on a SBGH GH10 but the drawn top view of the mesh shows a 1" gap in the center of the screen vertically.

I'm confused. Should there be a 1" gap? This would mean that there are actually two screen halves, correct?

Should there be a 1" gap? This would mean that there are actually two screen halves, correct?
Yes, thats correct. The gap provides additional gain.

Thanks! The 1" gap in the screen absolutely increased the gain on my SBGH GH10 mesh.

Yep, thats what it does.

On my Curved Mesh SBGH Gen2 antenna, I had a small dip in the gain curve with the 1 inch gap. By using only a .2 inch gap, the dip minimized. A .5 inch gap didnt do much, and larger gaps than 1 inch made the dip worse. But the problem with a .2 inch gap is that its very easy for the two sections to touch each other, so a lot care must be taken with that, otherwise all is for naught.

But the problem with a .2 inch gap is that its very easy for the two sections to touch each other, so a lot care must be taken with that, otherwise all is for naught.

Are there some pictures on this site showing a GH10 built with a screen having this gap? I found some line drawings from a model (which shows the general idea), but a picture would help explain what construction techniques were used to avoid gap drift for the two screen sections.

I'd like to try this with a flat screen and jed's GH10 rev-2 elements, since your feedback on that configuration looked good.

Are there some pictures on this site showing a GH10 built with a screen having this gap?
Nope, none that I know of. You would have to affix some strip of .2 inch UV resistant piece of plastic in a gap that small to prevent a gap drift.

Hmm, I just measured. Cheap 3/4 inch (about $1.34 for 10ft) UV resistant grey electrical sch 40 pvc is about .10 inches thick. You could slice that and double it up with some glue.

Cheap 3/4 inch (about $1.34 for 10ft) UV resistant grey electrical sch 40 pvc is about .10 inches thick. You could slice that and double it up with some glue.

If I’m understanding you correctly, the 2 pieces glued together would create a 0.2” barrier stop to maintain the 0.2” gap and prevent the 2 screen sections from moving closer and touching, and that’s good. But, I’m still a little confused as to how the two screen sections would be firmly anchored down at the center gap to prevent movement in other directions (such as further apart). I was hoping a picture might better explain.

In trying to determine how I would approach building a screen and frame, it seemed to me I could take one of two approaches. I could use either an “outside-in” approach or an “inside-out” approach.

“Outside-in” approach – Build the frame first to a predetermined set of specs, mount the full screen on the frame, and then cut the vertical center gap. For example, using 2” x 4” screen wire, cut the screen material down to make a 32” wide x 40” high full-screen rectangle. Construct the frame to match those dimensions so that ties can be used to secure the screen sides to the top, bottom and sides of the frame. After the screen has been securely attached to the frame, then cut the vertical gap (1” or 0.2”). A 30” wide x 40” high frame could also be used, but that would make things a little more complex as the screen width then would not be a multiple of the screen material’s 4” horizontal spacing between vertical-wires. This would make it more difficult to secure the screen to the sides of the frame using tie-wraps. To construct a 30” wide x 40” high frame, I would use either 1” x 2” or 2” x 3” screen material to make a matching 30” wide x 40” high full screen.

“Inside-out” approach – Construct two half-screens first, and then adjust the width dimension of the frame to match the width of the screen sections plus screen gap. For example, using 2” x 4” screen material, cut two half-screens each measuring 16” wide x 40” high. The frame would still be 40” high, but the frame width would be adjusted to be 33” (16” + 16” + 1” for the gap) or 32.2” (for an 0.2” gap). If I wanted to keep the frame width closer to 30” wide, I would use 2” x 3” screen material, cut two 15” wide x 40” high screen sections and adjust the frame width accordingly.

Using either approach, I would be building a flat screen on the frame. I think the “outside-in” approach would be easier to build initially, but I might have more difficulty accurately cutting the center gap later. Also, cutting the center gap later would leave multiple unsupported horizontal wire stubs at the gap (which had prompted my initial question as to how these ends could be anchored securely to properly maintain the gap). I think the “inside-out” approach might require a little more effort initially, but might give me more options for anchoring and maintaining the correct gap width (using each screen’s vertical wire at the gap).

Sorry for the lengthy explanation. I guess a picture still is worth a thousand words.

But, I’m still a little confused as to how the two screen sections would be firmly anchored down at the center gap to prevent movement in other directions (such as further apart).
Black UV resistant nylon wire ties, available at Walmart automotive dept $2.84/100, is what I used.

Also FYI, since you have the Zenith DTT901, the cheapest Phillips remote Walmart has, SRU3003WM/17, will control the DTT901 with code 0267 on the cbl/sat button. That way, one remote can control both the TV and CECB.

Ive found cutting the gap very last thing, after everything is tight and secure, but before mounting to the mast, is the easiest. Just need good wire clippers.

Also FYI, since you have the Zenith DTT901, the cheapest Phillips remote Walmart has, SRU3003WM/17, will control the DTT901 with code 0267 on the cbl/sat button. That way, one remote can control both the TV and CECB.

Thanks for the great tip on the Philips remote for the DTT901. I'll take a look the next time I go to Walmart. Strangely enough, I don't see that part number on the Walmart website. The closest number seems to be SRU3003/27. Wonder if it is being replaced, or is only available in stores?

As for building a Hoverman screen model, guess I'll just give it a try and see how I do. Thanks for the helpful suggestions.

The closest number seems to be SRU3003/27.
That looks like what Im using, just an updated production run, and it says "new", for $2 more, heh. http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=11018998
It should work with the same code, otherwise you can always return it.
I like using the bigger buttons and less clutter.