My magic focus will not work at all, when i press the mf button the screen turns black and then i cannot do anything. I have to go turn the tv off and turn it back on to get the picture back. I have tried to reset the mf blue button on the inside of the tv but that does not work either.

Please help if you can...

mcr...what model do you have....the newer sets need to be set to auto in the set up menu.....

I have the 53uwx10ba.....thanks.

You have the same chassis I do. The little blue button (on the chassis) has always worked for me. TV needs to be on, with an NTSC signal...

Please walk me through the steps if you can i don't want to screw it up. I appreciate the help everyone has been great, keep up the good work.

Thanks

Steps?

The blue button instructions are available on the KeohiHDTV site, Hitachi section.

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/brandspecific/hitachi/hitachi_tips.html

A simple press of the button while receiving an NTSC signal should work...

The DCAM convergence steps are in the first post of this thread. I have used them many times and they work just fine.

I'm a first time owner of a RPTV, I just baught this 43UWX10B on ebay w/out researching the problem. here is the grid picture http://www.bluemoon.net/~askrob/ebay/Hit.JPG
Does this look like a fixable problem through the convergance procedure or will I need to replace some parts first. I am a electronics tech. Hobbiest so replacing parts is no problem, just don't want to do it if I just need to spend a day looking at grids and playing w/ a remote.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Rob

This should be fixable in the DCAM convergence. It doesn't look bad enough to be the "IC problem" that's also discussed in this forum.

However, when doing the DCAM start in the "Course" mode, get things close, then move to the "medium" mode, then to the "fine". If you start with fine, the lines will not converge

This should be fixable in the DCAM convergence. It doesn't look bad enough to be the "IC problem" that's also discussed in this forum.

However, when doing the DCAM start in the "Course" mode, get things close, then move to the "medium" mode, then to the "fine". If you start with fine, the lines will not converge

Thank You, when I get my remote I orded I will give it a try, good to have a place like this to get advice

Everything worked in the following post EXCEPT step 10, I could not get the DCAM to change the grid size. How do you change the grid size to the 3X3 or 5X7? When I go into DCAM the default grid is 13X9 and it will not change.

Thanks,
Scott

The grid sized doesn't change. The movement of the cursor changes by skipping a line.

I've added a note to that effect in the original post.

So I will always have the 13X9 grid on the screen, the only thing that changes about the grid are the lines that can be selected in each mode????

Yep, but it does help to do the medium convergence first, otherwise you are very likely to end up with the "S" curve problem in the fine convergence.

Hi everyone,
I'm new to the forum...I wish I would have found this forum before I let my 3 year old, freshly out of the warranty, Hitachi 53UDX10BA go out for repairs. I had a local TV repair shop come and pick the TV up when it first failed about 8 months ago and they had it for about a month only to bring it back saying they could not fix it and did not know what was wrong with it. So I had a "certified" Hitachi repair company come look at the TV and he said since someone else had already messed with the TV he had no idea what was wrong with it without getting deep into repairs that could not be done at my house and would probably cost $600 to $800 on top of the $100 service charge for today (unless of course I say sure today and he would wave the $100 for today). Any way, we have been watching a 20" ever since because I just couldn't see spending that much money. In the meantime I stumbled on to this great forum and I even ordered the infamous STK392-110 IC's (the cheap ones) and replaced them. Unfortunately, this did not fix my problems, I can turn the TV now, which is better than when it came back from the shop, but the convergence is still way out of wack. Its kind of like the middle of the screen at the top and bottom need to be stretched up and down. I tried to enter the manual focus, but the magic focus button does nothing and I can not reset the magic focus with the little blue bottun. So I guess I would like some help on the following questions:

1. Any way to get the magic focus back...noticed something mentioned about some people lossing their magic focus?
2. I really have no idea what the tv shop did to my tv and I noticed what I would call a jumper wire on the component side of my convergence board when I replaced my IC's...it just doesn't look like it belongs. I think it was going from one of the IC's to one of the resistors about 1.5 inches away...any one else see this on their boards?
3. What do you think the chances are that this thing can be easily fixed or is it even worth it since I really don't know what happened to it at the shop?

Sorry, if this is in the wrong thread. Thanks for help and thanks for the forum, alot of useful information!

Well, you're sort of in the wrong thread. The thread in the Hitachi forum directly below this one is the one you want - regarding Convergence problems and the ICs.

If you read through that, you'll find that more can be wrong than simply the ICs - resistors, the board itself, etc.

http://digitalhomecanada.com/forum/showpost.php?p=263445&postcount=19

Please put your location (and service provider if you like) in your profile. it'll often help us help you.

Thanks 57,

I've actually been to that post (and many more)...its kind of depressing. I figure I may have to either get a new FC unit or a new convergence PWB (I'm just hoping I don't need to go that far). Did you notice the wire on the printed side of your board when you removed it? Oh yeah, when you got your new convergence PWB did the FC unit (CS00453) come with it or is that a separate item. If you need to move this to a different thread please do...I'll probably have trouble finding it, I am learning my way around with in your forum. Thanks for the info!

I dldn't get a new board, it was "rebuilt" by my technician. See the link in my previous post to what was done on my TV.

I don't recall any jumber "wire" going from board to board, just the 4 (or so) jumpers that connect the boards.

There were several connectors on the convergence board that needed to be unplugged with the plastic plugs. I believe 3 for the CRTs and one for the magic focus, but I can't recall if there were any more.

I guess I should have said rebuilt as well, just I would get the rebuilts from an electronics supplier. Apparently cost about the same as yours did except I would get a little back for a core deposit.

The jumper wire is not connecting two different boards it is connecting two different components on the convergence PWB (the printed side)...from one of the IC's to one of the RK's. Any one run into this scenario?

How about the magic focus? It was mentioned in the manual convergence proceedures that sometimes people have lost their magic focus. Did they or is there a way to get it back? I have tried reseting the "little blue button" and I still get nothing. Thanks.

Ok my tv is about 5yrs old. I was trying to adjust the convergence settings and pressed a wrong button. Now I tried opening up the TV and press the little blue button, however, that didn't work well. I got a pretty nasty shock. If I where to unplug the TV for like a day or what ever, could I get it back to normal? Is there anything at all that I can do - I cannot get a service tech out here because our warrnty is up. The TV picture doesn't look too bad, however, magic focous does not work. I see a + in all corners/center of the TV. I try and adjust that and it works I believe. Does anyone have any suggestions????????? Thanks!

The little blue button is the only way I know to reset from the "+".

Don't touch anything except the little blue button, that should take you to the DCAM mode.

Just because you're out of warranty doesn't mean you can't get a technician, you just need to pay him.