do most HT installs include wiring from the AVR (banana plugs) to a wall plate (banana plugs) through the walls via in-wall speaker wire to wall plates (banana plugs) and to the speaker (banana plugs).
So for a 5 speaker set up that is 40! plugs and connections. This seems like alot of connections.

Is this the way its done?

any suggestions of inwall speaker wire? and where to get it and other wires and connectors?

Thanks.

Some people use little plastic grommets or blank plates with holes drilled out that allows the wire to plug directly into the speaker with the receiver end wires coming through a bulk wire plate. Personally for all custom jobs I do, I always use wall plates with the appropriate terminations. They look great and add value when thinking of selling.

Is this the way its done?

any suggestions of inwall speaker wire? and where to get it and other wires and connectors?You can opt to use banana plugs only on the ends of the wires that connect to the receiver and speakers, since these connections are more likely to be plugged / unplugged than the connections to the wall plates. For the plates, just screw the wire into the terminals and be done with it OR you can order a bulk quantity of some really nice, well-priced banana plugs from Hong Kong off eBay retailers. (PM me if you want the name of the guy I've dealt with satisfactorily a couple of times.)

I bought my initial order* of in-wall (CL2-rated) speaker wire and my wall plates - the kind w/ terminals on both sides - from Monoprice(.com). Good prices, quick delivery.

(*Because I needed the wire more quickly than expected, I also made an "express" wire order through BlueJeansCable(.com), another well-rated on-line store. I bought all my video cables from them, too.)

Although people seem to like all these connectors, I use a single wire from the AVR to the speaker and I screw the wire (bare about 1.5 cm) onto the speakers/AVR using the screw terminals on most equipment. I cut my speaker wires about 30cm longer than necessary and every couple of years cut off the ends (which may oxidize) and reconnect.

Although all these wall plates may look impressive, they don't add anything to the sonic quality and are potential sources of issues/problems/failures. A single wire (or a group) coming through an appropriate plate or even directly out the drywall (if a single wire) is (and looks) much cleaner. It's a good idea to label the wires so that you can disconnect/reconnect without trial/error.

Edit: As stated by others in this thread, if you do a lot of unplugging/replugging, then banana plugs at that point may be of value.

Fully agree. The best connection is always bare wire to post but this is not always the most practical way to do it, especially if you feel you need to plug-unplug often. By using a plate you are only introducing an additional failure point that looks good. I do use banana plugs from the amp to speakers as I find it difficult to properly secure a 11.5 ga wire straight into the output post but run all my other wires from device to device (6 ft) with banana, rca and bnc..

thanks for the advice. I decided to just use banana plugs at the AVR and then run the wire to the speakers. If i ever move out maybe i'll add wall plates to make it look better but for now i'll go with that.

Got them pretty cheap at Monoprice along with wire and a few other cables. Of course the canadian dollar went down the drain at just the wrong time. Still cheaper than anything local (unfortunately!).

Our contractor is about to replace the paneling in our family room, so I can also have him run the speaker wiring for the surround speakers over the ceiling and down the walls. Total distance about 8' up, 10' across, and 8' down. Let's say 45' max.

Two questions:

1) is it necessary to use in-wall speaker wire? What's the risk if you don't?
2) what gauge? Any value in going 14 gauge?

Yes, I know that's 4 questions!

Thanks, Rich Chambers

it isn't necessary, but it "is" a legal requirement.
If a fire ever starts in your home, cable that is rated for in-wall use doesn't off-gas as easily as cable that isn't.

I'd have preferred to use #14, but the cost was less for my #16.

If you are serious about your theatre, then 14g is the minimum.

And yes, please use in-wall speaker wire.

All the installations I do for client I use in-wall. It's got a thicker jacket on it so it can withstand all the pulling through holes and such. It's also Fire Tested for use inside of a wall.

The transparent jacket stuff tends to turn green and is no way rated for in-wall.

Thanks Bent and PHAND;

Question: what about using bulk lamp cord? i.e. 2-conductor electrical wire?

Or is that a dumb question?


And, anyone, where in the Toronto area can I buy in-wall speaker wire in bulk. I don't have time to get it from Monoprice in the US.

Home Depot or similar usually have it on rolls. You can buy it CL2 rated and yes two-conductor "lamp cord" works just fine. I assume you'll be getting either 12 or 14 ga.

And, anyone, where in the Toronto area can I buy in-wall speaker wire in bulk. I don't have time to get it from Monoprice in the US.

I buy mine from local industry wholesalers. Not sure where else you can buy large quantities of inwall.

back in Highschool, when I bought my 1st 'stereo', I tinned the end of the wires so that they would go into the spring connections easier in the receiver or on the back of the speakers.

Now that my HT/Media room is a few weeks away from being finished, I'm about to dust off and get out my Paradigm speakers that have sat dormant for the past 6 years. I plan to tin the speaker wires for my new setup, and just tucking the speaker wire for the rears underneath the baseboard.

P

Tomorrow the wires get strung.....!

I've got 250' of 14 gauge speaker wire from Home Depot.

My couch is against the back wall from the TV. Is there any point at all in running both surround and back channel wires to the wall behind the couch??

This is literally a one-in-a-renovation-lifetime situation.

Thanks!

I just made that decision myself. I reckoned I'd never use the back channel, but then I picked up a new centre channel and will use the old one for the rear back channel. For an extra few dollars of wire and some labor you may as well do it.

Copper may turn green if there is high humidity, but mostly it will turn dark or black due to the formation of copper oxide. I doubt that a film of CuO really affects the conductivity of the wire to any extent.

Oh my gosh!

I got the paneling removed, insulation added (there was none), new electrical outlets, and the speaker wire in place. Then the paneling was put back up.

Then I went to get the building permit for the wood stove we are buying and having installed.

Guess what! When previous owners finished the basement, they did not get a building permit. To the town records, the basement is unfinished. So now I also have to get a permit to do all the work we have already done. And the entire basement must be up to current code!!!!!

Fortunately, our renovator has done exactly that, so other than a pain in the backside, having to pay $$ and give the town a drawing and then getting it all inspected, I'm ok.

BUT! I am thankful I used code approved in-wall speaker wire. If I hadn't, it would have to be pulled out an replaced.

Rich

Home Depot or similar usually have it on rolls. You can buy it CL2 rated and yes two-conductor "lamp cord" works just fine. I assume you'll be getting either 12 or 14 ga.
On a similar note... if you want whole house audio... use cat5 cable with all the stripped wires twisted together and all the solid colored wires as another lead. The twisted pair configuration will eliminate inductance... and a roll of cat5 is already rated for in wall use and is cheap.

On a similar note... if you want whole house audio... use cat5 cable with all the stripped wires twisted together and all the solid colored wires as another lead. The twisted pair configuration will eliminate inductance... and a roll of cat5 is already rated for in wall use and is cheap.
Let me correct you on one part of using the Cat5 cable as speaker wire. I personally use Cat6 for the thicker guage, plus i get it for free but i wouldnt recommend twisting the stripped colors together and the dark together for your plus and minus leads. Each pair inside the jacket is twisted together, doing it the way you explain means you have a negative and a positive twited together x4! You could end up have some interference. This brings me to why Cat6 would be better as theres a seperating shield inside the cable to prevent interference from the pairs. I would suggest at the minimum to use the Blue\Orange pairs, strip and twist them together as one lead and your Green\Brown as another lead.