: Rotors for OTA: Channel Master, Nexxtech/Archer, Yaesu, Hy-Gain, Others


Pages : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 [43] 44 45

majortom
2012-06-11, 11:58 PM
2nd negative, not really a big deal. Just a minor inconvenience.

It seems the remote from the LG TV I have is capable of controlling the device. The Volume UP/DN moves the Azimuth East / West.
However using the East / West buttons of the remote doesn't control the LG TV's Volume.

So, it seems the remote protocol it's using may not be very sophisticated, and easily fooled. Just a little annoying.
Workaround => Turn it off so it will ignore remote commands when not in use.

@threeflags. If ya read the Specs in the linked to Manual, it says the control box outputs 18 VDC, the motor draws 350 mA (max), and the motor subsequently can supply 17 VDC @ 50 mA (max) for a Preamp.
The label on the control box says it sources 18 VDC @ 450 mA.

mkaye
2012-06-30, 11:38 AM
maybe this isn't the right forum
how do you synchronize the rotor with a PVR
if i set it to record a channel is there a way to get info out of the PVR to get the rotor to turn?

mark

Archerotor
2012-07-09, 03:33 AM
I have a 20 year old AntennaCraft rotator (TDP-2) and now the brown, flat 20 gauge 3-wire rotator cable is starting to bubble and crack from the elements. Whereabouts can one buy that type of rotator cable or substitute something that is better? I'm in the Vancouver area of British Columbia. The rubber or plastic grommet at the side of the rotator motor housing has a flat slot to accept and hold securely the flat, parallel-arranged rotator wires and to keep out moisture.

BOUVAL
2012-07-09, 11:13 AM
Archerotor,

14 gauge outdoor electrical wire would do.

Including the ground, you get 3 conductors.
.

Archerotor
2012-07-09, 01:21 PM
Thanks BOUVAL.

I'll check it out.

Archerotor
2012-08-15, 07:32 PM
I wonder if anyone here knows what manufacturer made the 1991 Radio Shack Archerotor Antenna Rotator? It came with the flat, brown 3-wire conductor to go from the box in the house to the rotator. I have a picture here:
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/album.php?albumid=829&pictureid=5527

Jaygeetee
2012-08-16, 01:46 AM
From the photo it looks like a RS 15-1245 which came with a heavy manual control box. I have one and it just says Radio Shack and made in China but I got mine around 1999.
I can also tell you that the 15-1245 is identical to the Channel Master CM 9521a. Both rotors work with either manual or remote controllers and use the flat brown 3 conductor wire.

Archerotor
2012-08-16, 12:35 PM
Thanks Jaygeetee

If I can post a youtube link here, the rotator looks like this one, and the control box is very similar.
Archerotor - Channel Master control box
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYQ-1EvnT0c

Jaygeetee
2012-08-16, 02:56 PM
Yup, looks and operates exactly like mine here.
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/pictures/5/fa2816cff62fd9e8a86c79f71a618dfc_5528.jpg?dl=1345142841

BOUVAL
2012-08-16, 05:46 PM
Archerotor,

Thinking of it, there's also the 2 pair outdoor telephone cable, it' flat, black, and has 4 conductors.

That's what I have here, one line for my business and another for my fax.
.

Archerotor
2012-08-16, 07:42 PM
That might work. I know the old telephone 2-pair was 22 gauge, and I think the newer one to the house is 24 gauge. Was the flat 3-wire Radio Shack rotator cable multistrand, and not solid wire? It's a good idea, if there's problems finding the original, which, locally, I'd have to check some of the electronic stores. Maybe even satellite places, as some carry a bit of OTA equipment. There's a couple Radio places in Ontario as well that might have it. I'll check the voltage specs for the rotator cable against what the telephone cable is rated. My issue, is that the Radio Shack rotator cable jacket does not weather all that well and has started to peel and blister, while the coaxial cable is looking just a little faded from the sun.

roger1818
2012-08-16, 10:06 PM
Thinking of it, there's also the 2 pair outdoor telephone cable, it' flat, black, and has 4 conductors.

I wouldn't recommend telephone wire for a rotor as it is too small a gauge and will result in too large a voltage drop. It might work at first, but may cause problems later down the road. I wouldn't use anything smaller than 18 AWG. Solid or stranded doesn't matter much, but stranded is more flexible if you need to move the controller box around, though obviously in the walls and up the mast that doesn't matter.

Jase88
2012-08-16, 10:40 PM
Sprinkler control wire is widely available (Rona, Home Depot, etc) and affordable. Makes for great rotator control cable.

I agree with Roger1818 above: two-pair phone cable isn't good enough. And not all of it is rated for outdoor use either.

roger1818
2012-08-16, 10:54 PM
^^^While you are at it, get a bundle with 5 or 6 wires. While the CM rotor only uses 3 wires, other better quality rotors use more, so having that dragged in may save you effort down the road.

Archerotor
2012-08-16, 11:50 PM
Thanks for all the experienced input. Stranded wire makes it more flexible. I never thought about that. It makes sense. Sprinkler wire? Would have never thought of that either. It's widely available too and here I'm wondering who has rotator wire? What is a good- not too heavy- but strong rotator for an OTA antenna. Mine is about 9.6 lbs. It's not supported by guy wires, and the upper mast is only about 12 - 14" long above the rotator. I know some of the bigger combo (CM, Winegard, AntennaCraft) antennas can get to almost 20 lbs, and some of the more professional ones even more. I thought about looking at a HAM radio site, but I'm sure people here will know a few good ones. That said, my Radio Shack one has been good for 21 years, and is still good. From what I've read, sometimes, if they stick, a good regreasing of the internals can fix it. Anyone have any ideas on the best type of grease, or method of doing that? Just the gears and the bearings need the grease?

majortom
2012-08-17, 01:24 AM
prior to getting the ROTR 100 (diseqc interface), I used to use the Polarotor control cable that's commonly used with CBAND satellite dishes to move the feedhorn skew motor. Worked fine with the Channelmaster. It's 18 AWG red, wht, blk stranded in a single jacket.

roger1818
2012-08-17, 07:59 AM
What is a good- not too heavy- but strong rotator for an OTA antenna.

For a good quality rotor, look at Ham radio ones. Others have said you can sometimes get used ones at a reasonable price. Contact your local Ham radio club.

the upper mast is only about 12 - 14" long above the rotator.

I do not recommend having that much mast above the rotor. Your height should be gained below the rotor and the mast above the rotor should be kept as short as possible. Driving around in the country you will see many bent masts from having too much above the rotor.

That said, my Radio Shack one has been good for 21 years, and is still good.

The older TV rotors are much better than the new ones, so definitely try and keep it going if possible.

Archerotor
2012-08-17, 12:42 PM
I might have overestimated the mast height above the rotator, giving the impression it was unused space. It is probably about 10" - 12", but as you can see in the picture:

http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/album.php?albumid=829&pictureid=5527

it is as short as posible to accommodate the two booms.

roger1818
2012-08-17, 02:08 PM
Doh! For some reason I was thinking you said 10 or 12 feet (not inches). That looks fine to me. As for the main mast below the rotor, that can be 5 to 10 feet depending on the mounting bracket. I can't tell from your photo, but are you using a chimney mount (with straps around the chimney) or a wall mount (with screws into the chimney)? I recommend the former as it distributes the load more evenly across the chimney instead of all the load in one or two bricks.

Archerotor
2012-08-17, 06:49 PM
Hi Roger

No, I wouldn't dream of drilling through the bricks and hope that would hold. I have a custom made 2" wide metal strapping that goes around the chimney, one strap near the bottom, one close to the top, put against where there is brick, not mortar. The straps have a bolt with a washer and nut holding them in place at one end (south), and, at the opposite end (north), - I'll have to post a pic- there are antenna "wall mounts" adapted to fit through the stapping and secured with bolts, washers and nuts. It's been pretty solid. And back in 2006 we had a windstorm, where just across Burard Inlet from me, winds were up to about 120 km/hr. It was very damaging to Stanley Park. However, there are some wear or fatigue marks, maybe small 'holes' in the short upper mast section, above the rotator, perhaps from the 'back and forth', quick and sudden reaction movements to the wind that over time have taken their toll on that section of mast. I am going to get up there and replace the coax, and the balun with a CM 94444 that I'm getting from Peano.