It's warm and it's stopped raining . Temp is about 7oC.
I re-sync'd. Pushed the up and down buttons. Gone to preset directions. But the antenna is solid (no play) at the 000 (north) with not even a shimmy as if it's trying to move. Wiring seems okay, but I don't want to climb the roof and I can't use the remote at the same time as that's a 2 man job anyway to check the power at the rotor. The best I can do is check the wiring from the control box.

Maybe a bum circuit board at the rotor?
laurie

I don't have a schematic for that rotor, but my recollection is that there's no PCB within the rotor itself. It's just a "dumb" rotor: No potentiometer, etc. It just accepts power and rotates accordingly to the supplied energy.

Though now that you mention it, there may be one to control an overheat switch. Not sure...

Double check your connections at the control box.

Along with much yelling from SWMBO I climbed the roof anyway.
I wiggled and jiggle and pulled on the antenna.

I then made the rotator point to 000 and then to 180 and it moved around to the approximate position.

I'll leave it alone now. I was reading where other people had the problem and took the rotator apart and lubricated the rubber seal. Maybe it was just stuck.

Thanks for your advice Jase88;
laurie

Hello guys,

Is there a recommended/comparison PDF chart for rotors anywhere on the site?

If not, can someone recommend a few?

Thank you.

^^^^ We don't maintain a list or chart of recommended rotors. And we'd need to know more about your budget, expectations, etc., before a recommendation could be made.

I invite you to take a few minutes and read through this thread. There's plenty of great information here already to help you towards a buying decision.

I don't really know what my expectations are :), i.e what the OTA rotors can do.
I've come from a satellite background, and a dish motor can automatically move the dish to the desired satellite (as one selects a satellite, or a specific satellite channel on the STB remote).
If there are rotors that can do something similar, it'd be nice.
As for budget, I guess something under $100 is desirable (I think my dish motor was around $60).

I'll check the pages, but with 55 pages worth of info, it's a bit hard to pick something specific, which is why I loved the antenna and preamp comparison PDF's.

Thanks again.

Here's a nutshell recap of the thread from a buying perspective:

The typical requirements for an antenna rotator are much different than that of a dish rotor. Therefore, spending <$100 won't get you far for an antenna rotator, unless perhaps you buy used and manage a good deal with the seller.

Based on feedback in this thread, the two biggest issues for antenna rotator owners is (1) loss of synchronization, and (2) cold weather failure.

Cheaper rotators use a timer approach to synchronization between the control box and the rotator itself. This method isn't accurate, especially in cold weather. The advantage is the wiring is simpler and cost is lower. Example of a rotator using this method: Channel Master 9251.

Better rotators use a potentiometer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer) to manage sync between control box and unit. Advantage: Complete aiming accuracy. Disadvantage: More cost for equipment and wiring. Example of a rotator using this method: AR40 (http://www.hy-gain.com/Product.php?productid=AR-40) by HyGain.

With regards to cold weather failure: This issue is generally linked to the power of the rotator, quality, and construction. Icing and poor mating materials like rubber often cause cold failure. Better power and larger, better quality bearings in low temp grease tend to ensure trouble free operation.

The power and quality of rotator required is also dictated by the wind load area if the antenna(s) in use. Larger antenna arrays require more rotational force and braking power.

Wind Load Area is also impacted by other variables, such as whether you intend to use a thrust bearing (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thrust_bearing), or simply have the rotator bear the load of the antenna mast and antenna.

Therefore, depending on your tolerance of the two major complaints as above, budget, antenna wind load factor, whether you intend to use a thrust bearing or not, ultimately should help you to reach a decision on whether to purchase a lower end rotator, or higher end one.

Thank you Jase.
This is a great summary.

So, my understanding is that unless you have many desirable stations spread around, this is an expensive toy (if you want durability or stable operation).
Unfortunately it looks like my case, and something tells me, that it would be more difficult to install a rotor later on, especially if the antenna is positioned on a tower.

- Igor

If you live in an area like myself, where desirable stations are found at long distances in various directions, a rotator is necessary.

In the GTA, where stronger signals are found in primarily two directions, many get by with simply merging feeds from two antenna pointed in different directions.

I suggest visiting TVFool.com, entering in your address, and get a report on the stations available at your location. This will give you insight into what your technical needs are...and whether or not you can get by without a rotator.

Does anyone have an old CM-9523 in good shape that they're no longer using? Thanks.

ur lookin to replace an 18 volt controller with the 30 volt?
Have a few friends who do roofing on the side, occssionally they run in to a house with an antenna no longer in use.
If they come across any again this year, I'll make sure to rescue it (how I got mine).

Hi majortom,

The 9523 is the CM rotor alignment bearing, aka thrust bearing. (I don't want to hassle with the NTE TB-105.)

A roofing rescue sounds like a great idea.

Thanks!

ahh, I gotcha now. Have never come across one of those (yet). Now that I know what it looks like, keep an eye out for them.

Thank you.

I used my CM9521 today and it works as it was 50F today! First time in 2012.
Way to go CM!:rolleyes:

Wilspin,
I finally ordered one of the Eagle Apsen ROTR100 rotor systems. It seems to have come down in price over the last year or so, figured why not. $69 + shipping.

I may give the old Channel Master rotor I have to my brother, who's trying to convince his wife to cut the cord, going OTA + broadband.

Got the CM rotor removed and the Eagle Aspen ROTR 100 installed today.
So far so good, running the Winegard AP 8700 preamp directly off of it
rather than using the DC insertor that comes with the AP-8700.

Sync'd right up, no problems at all. Nice knowing where the antenna is now:p
Only thing negative I can say so far is that it didn't come with any documentation or manual.
Felt strange about having to hunt one down on the internet.ROTR100 Manual (http://db.tt/mk51PxgW)
in case anyone else ever needs it.

Where did you get it from?

I too was looking to get this. Fired off a few emails to Eagle but never got a single reply ... so maybe you can answer this since you just installed one.

1. Is it as simple as set unit to 000 degrees AND pointing the "North mark" on the rotor to North?
2. What's the maximum size for mast and stub diameter that you can use?
3. What's you feeling on the build quality?

Thanks.

We have the ROTR100 manual on our website as we are a reseller of it. Look under "Documents" on the ROTR100 product page.

1. Yes, it's pretty much that simple. Follow the initial setup and synchronization instructions in the manual.
2. Max mast OD is 2" for both mounts.
3. Build quality appears to me to be pretty good for a unit with a sub-$100 list price. Drive gears are all metal and, due to the gear reduction in the unit, it's pretty hard to imagine a wind-loaded antenna forcing a rotation of the drive mechanism. I suspect it will break a gear or it's attachment to a shaft before it ever slips internally.

ADTech, since you answered the questions ... can you confirm what the rotor can handle in terms of power insertion? The maunal states 17 VDC @ 50mA but the sales page (at Eagle) list 18 VDC @ 80mA. Much thanks.