Selecting a pre-amp that can take advantage of the ROTR100's 1-wire system usually requires using a recommended unit from Pro-Brands. The ability of the system to adapt to different voltage/current requirements is virtually nil.

+17-18 VDC at 80 Ma (max) is all that will work.

Running a separate coax avoids this problem.

I have the channel master rotor with the remote.This is the second one I have had,the first one was freezing up.The problem is that after a re-sinq I use the remote and tell it to go to say 250,it doesn't go there so I re-sinq it and then it goes to 250.Next I hit 180 and it won't go there but if I hit sinq then it will go to 180.The only way it seems to do what it is told is to select the number then hit the sinq button.Anyone ever had this happen?

I hate to butt in, but I can't find an answer online or in search engine:

I have an old Alliance, either u-100 or U-110; the control boxes are mixed (they have a minor difference); it's older than the hills; And, after many years of very little trouble (off a couple degrees and occasionally needs to be reset; they all do, occasionally); the rotor stopped.The motor seems frozen; it just buzzes. I tried my spare box; even checked starting capacitors; they were good. I cleaned the old grease from the motor; removed all gears from it; even put temporary paper shims between the rotor and armature (field) and then tightened the bearing screws, and removed the paper; thus preventing the rotor from rubbing on anything. It doesn't rub, but, again, just freezes when power is on.Motor windings seem to ohm-out and have no shorts to ground. I can't get parts. I think I can buy a used unit, : but I'd like to know if anyone else has seen/fixed this.:confused:

The cold weather is back and so is the stuck rotator from CM I pointed at CBC TO for Wall E last night! It was good in the warmer rainy days. I found a way to free it up by reversing multiple times it then syncing it. Goes real slow at first then speeds up to normal. Still no reply from vendor support!
Did ever get a reply from CM tech support?

I spoke to one of their techs just before Christmas regarding the same problem I am having, [will not rotate in sub freezing temperatures] , and he said they were aware of the problem, and were "working on it".

I suggested they take a rotor and put it in the freezer for a few hours, pull it out and they will see the problem first hand. This same tech has not returned any of my follow-up calls since then.

I suggested they take a rotor and put it in the freezer for a few hours, pull it out and they will see the problem first hand.

The only problem with this suggestion is most freezers are only set to -18C ;) :eek: They really need to put it in a thermal test chamber.

The only problem with this suggestion is most freezers are only set to -18C ;) :eek: They really need to put it in a thermal test chamber.
Mine quits working at about -5C, so -18C would certainly be cold enough to conduct any tests required to find the problem.

Mine quits working at about -5C, so -18C would certainly be cold enough to conduct any tests required to find the problem.

That may be true, but quality products need to be tested in all operating conditions. Consumer grade equipment could probably skip the shotgun blast test (I am not joking, it is a real test for commercial outdoor gear). ;)

That may be true, but quality products need to be tested in all operating conditions. Consumer grade equipment could probably skip the shotgun blast test (I am not joking, it is a real test for commercial outdoor gear). ;)
One would hope and think that CM would test its outdoor rotors, in all forms of weather and temperature conditions, BEFORE being released on the market and sold to the general public. I can only assume that is not the case.

What ticks me off, besides not being able to dial in the channels I want to on cold winter days and nights, for 4-5 months a year, is that once the problem is found, I will likely have to pay someone AGAIN, to climb my tower and replace the defective rotor. I doubt very much CM will cover that expence.

I think we need some kind of mass/class action here as I also suffer from CM rotor cold freeze up. No replies are coming from tech support ether so they know it's a bad product.

Is the issue with CM rotor freeze up releated to 1) cold weather, or 2) moisture getting into the rotor and cold weather? If it is due to moisture and cold weather, installing a rain shield is a potential fix. But if it is just cold weather, than in my view, it shouldn't be sold or installed anywhere where there is a winter.

My rotor installed in the Collingwood ON area froze up on New Years Day after enduring a day of solid rain followed by a flash freeze. It hasn't moved since. However, my other rotor installed in Mississauga made it through the New Years Day rain okay, but froze up in the -20 degree weather we had last week. It however was sluggish all January and lost sync easily.

Neither it's 3) bad product

Okay, I've got the problem too. It took me a while to learn to live with it. But in that price range , what's an alternative that actually goes to the preset direction if it moves at all? I was looking at the ROTR100 in the same price range, but went with CM because the older models lasted and lasted.

OK folks... I found the solution!

I bought a used CM manual controller off of Ebay [see pics below] just to see what would happen if I used it instead of the digital unit that came with it. It is -10C here today, and it is now working as it should again the second I plugged it in!

If you look at the output of the digital one, it states it is 18V & 1 amp. The older manual controllers output is 30V & 1 amp.

It would seem to me that the design flaw is the new digital controller.... NOT enough power!

Have a look on Ebay folks... I saw a few other ones there. ;)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/300sflyer/CDoRcegBmkKGrHqRhgE0frcQTiyBNPND7rNlQ_3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/300sflyer/CDoRn0gCGkKGrHqFlMEz1F883NBNPNEerDbg_3.jpg

Sounds great, but I really like the digital display and convenience factor of the new unit with the remote. Can anyone here suggest a way in which we could just boost the voltage in the newer units and accomplish the same thing?

I've taken apart a digital unit, it's pretty simple inside. You could put a 30VAC supply up to it, but you'd need to heatsink the 7805 regulator pretty heavily.

The rest of the circuit looks like it will handle it.

I wonder if The guys at Channel Master have checked this out. With all the people that have complained about the freeze up problem you think they would put some effort into solving this issue. Someone should send this suggested fix off to them and see what they think. Let them come up with a retro fix and provide it to the market. Its their product.... and our frustration ....

OK 300Sflyer lets see if your motor stands up to the voltage. Keep us in the loop.

We've talked about boosting power on the Channel Master rotor earlier in this thread. As mentioned, it's not recommended.

I also note that the model number on your ebay control box is different than the current model of Channel Master rotor. Which could explain the difference in powering specs.

Yes we did and no you should not. Only the brave/foolish will proceed
Ancient TV proverb (1955)
When you use something for a purpose it was not designed for, 1 of 2 things happen;
Someone gets hurt
Something gets broken

Just a "head's up":

A simple quick search of Kijiji across Ontario for "antenna rotor" came up with some good hits for equipment. For example, a guy wants $325 for a Yaesu with control box and cable--a great deal, IMO.

HAM rotators is where it's at. The equipment is so reliable and well built, and the performance is second to none. Thus the resale market is a good place to look...as you'll still get a lifetime of use out of an older model. And you can easily get parts for just about any older rotator.

My rotator has never froze up or suffered with directional drift. And we've seen some cold days and heavy winds in Kitchener (-23c last week).