My experience with 3-conductor cable branded as "rotor cable" has not been good. The black sheeth cracked within a year and then the freeze cycle worsened things further and I had to replace the cable.

In searching for a replacement, I have used 3-conductor lamp wire from my local hardware store and found it to be much better. The conductor gauge is heavier and there is what seems to be fibreglass strands under the black exterior sheeth.

In all, I was very happy to use this lamp wire and I see no signs of deterioration 12 months after having installed it.

STL

Tanks for the help. Today I tried to move the antena with chanel master CH9510A , the controler is buzzing but antena is not moving. I check the voltages witout wires connected to ch9510A and this is what i got:
going East 1-2-22.3v AC
2-3-27.6v AC
1-3- 18.6v AC
going West 1-2- 20.6v AC
2-3- 18.6v AC
1-3- 27.7v AC
Now when I connect wires back I get 18.6v AC acros all terminals. Question is what is gone rotator? or control unit?:confused:

I just purchased a new channel master rotor and control box built in the 1970's. Should I do any maintenance to the rotor (grease bearings) before I replace it with the burned out rotor currently on my antenna? I am unsure of the model of the rotor but the control is model 9512B. The rotor and control came brand new in a box. Thanks

I've done checking the antena over the weekend, and still I can't pinpoint the problem. I talked with my budy and he is sugesting that the rotor is probably sized. Would you have any toughts on the subject. :confused:

I've done checking the antena over the weekend, and still I can't pinpoint the problem. I talked with my budy and he is sugesting that the rotor is probably sized. Would you have any toughts on the subject. :confused:

Not an expert, but it certainly sounds like it is seized. Are you using a bearing? If so and one (or both) of the masts get bent between the rotor and the bearing, it can cause the rotor to seize. If you aren't sure, a picture of your setup would help.

hi Roger1818. Here is my setup, it is and old picture I'll try to take and post new one tomorow.
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/picture.php?albumid=289&pictureid=1293

I hope that I can get a close-up of the rotor. Thanks for your help.

Hey mooseIII,
when I first saw your picture of your setup, I thought it was a mast for an old wooden ship
ahoy!

hi Roger1818. Here is my setup, it is and old picture I'll try to take and post new one tomorow.

It is hard to tell, but it doesn't look like you are using a bearing. For your information, here is a picture of a mast mounted rotor bearing and a diagram of a typical installation:

http://www.starkelectronic.com/tb105.jpg http://www.starkelectronic.com/tb105.gif

If either of the masts between the rotor and the bearing aren't perfectly straight, the rotor will bind.

If you do end up replacing the rotor, it looks like your tower has a rotor mounting bracket inside the top section. I would mount the rotor inside there as it will be much more stable (I don't understand why so many installers don't)! You can probably also get a bearing for the top section. This type of bearing isn't as susceptible to bent masts as the mast mounted ones and provides much more support and protection for the rotor since the mast above the rotor is supported by the tower. Here is a picture of a tower rotor bearing:

http://pimages.solidsignal.com/BBMB_zoom.jpg

It would fastned to the top plate of the tower and the rotor would be below that (inside the tower).

As promised I shot new pictures.

-
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/picture.php?albumid=289&pictureid=1301

-
and the close-up
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http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/picture.php?albumid=289&pictureid=1300
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It doesn't look like I've support bearing, so I think I'm SOL:confused:
I guess I've to go back to sq.1 and start over. It looks like a preamp needs changing anyway it is old Delhi 476. Hey Roger do you have any more wisdom for me?, I need it. Do you think that it is posible to mount new rotor right inside the tower? What about the hight of the new set-up? should I try to keep same over-all hight? Can I still use that antena? Sorry for so many questions, but as you can see I'm a nub. Thanks for your help.
BTW would you have a drawing showing rotor mounted inside antena?

@mooseIII: I would definitely add a mast bearing, and take advantage of the rotor plate on the tower. It would siginifcantly increase the life of your rotor, and present a neater appearance.

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/2632/01050021.jpg (http://img29.imageshack.us/i/01050021.jpg/)

Thrust Bearing, as installed on top of a DMX tower, without mast.

hey guys,

I'm thinking of setting up a chimenny mount 4228 with a cm 7777 pre amp in Ottawa . At least I'll get the local channels with that

also just wondering if the rotator or support bearing uses a zerk fitting to let you grease the bearing every now and then -- just like a truck bearing

and do you use boat grease on the bearing -- ie water does not wash it out really works on my boat
https://is30.eporia.com/company_58/17882.jpg

Hi, Sorry if this has been explained before but I couldn't find it with the search.

Can anyone explain exactly what a sync will do? I had my CM rotor set up with a number of positions in memory and while on one channel (which happened to be 093 degrees), I accidently hit the sync button on the controller (the lights were out in the room). That caused the rotor to turn and I lost my reception for that channel. I finally used the up/down buttons to tune in again at 080 degrees. My other positions all of which were higher up ~140 degrees were not affected and remembered their previous locations. Does this make sense?

Thanks,
Larry :confused:

It doesn't look like I've support bearing, so I think I'm SOL:confused:

I agree, you don't have a bearing.

Do you think that it is posible to mount new rotor right inside the tower?

It is hard to tell for sure with the pictures you have, but Ii am quite confident the lower plate is a rotor mounting plate.

What about the hight of the new set-up? should I try to keep same over-all hight?

I wouldn't worry about matching the exact height. Extra height is a good thing from a reception point of view, but too long a mast can cause problems in the long run.

Can I still use that antena?

The real trick is getting it down safely. If you can, then there is no reason why you can't still use that antenna. The question of whether you should use it belongs in the thread for your location, as it depends on what stations are available.

BTW would you have a drawing showing rotor mounted inside antena?

I found one on page 2 of the Installation Instructions for DMX Towers (http://www.tvantenna.com/products/tvreception/mounting/towers/taco/dmx/DMXinstructions.pdf).

Sorry for so many questions, but as you can see I'm a nub. Thanks for your help.

No problem. My pleasure!

I'm thinking of setting up a chimenny mount 4228 with a cm 7777 pre amp in Ottawa . At least I'll get the local channels with that


This belongs in the Ottawa thread, but where in the city are you? A 4228 with 7777 may be overkill for the locals and may actually result in signal overload.

Thanks again Roger for all the help

The problem with older channel master rotors going out of sync is largely due to the main gear in the control box wearing out,it loses teeth causing the problem.this gear gear is made of a softer material than the other hard plastic gears in the control and deteriorates.you can resolve your problem by replacing this gear or purchasing a new remote control unit,they work excellent with all the older channel master and crown rotors!!!!
Hmm.. just revisiting this thread and noticed your thoughts on controller gear wear.

Found the same thing with mine -- that gear is real crap and doesn't take much to strip it out.

Gone through several used controllers now and would like to replace that 1st drive gear in all of them. Can't seem to find that particular part anywhere ..even (the revamped) RadioShack seems out of the service parts biz now.

Such a shame to turf these controllers for such a small part ..unless.. somebody has found a workaround??

Alternatively, a newer RC controller (CM9537) might be the ticket. I wonder if they available in the Vancouver area??

I want to put a rotor on my 4228 but with all the stories I'm hearing about them quitting in the cold i don't know which one to buy?,don't really want to spend the money on a AR40 that's not even a remote control.might have to lean towards building another 4228 and point it towards TO

Which universal remotes will work with the Channel Master rotor controller? Any good economical choices out there? I don't need a do everything remote, only one that will operate the rotor. I have a remote for upstairs but would like to also control it from the main floor. I have a remote extender transmitter/receiver already handy.

Thanks,

Larry

A Harmony remote will work with it. I'm pretty sure its in their online database, but you could always train it with the original remote.

Thanks stampeder. I'll see if I can find a cheap harmony. Are there any other brands that would do the trick?

Larry