Biggy
2008-11-12, 11:15 AM
Hi TorontoR,
It’s time step back and make a decision. Option #1 Are you going to install a 4228 plus a rotor (easiest straight forward option) or Option # 2 try to combine (gang) two antennas in different directions.
Option #1
Main advantages are it is relatively easy to install and it works!
The main disadvantages of option one is you must have a rotor to receive all channels and
notably it is only good for one TV set a time.
Option #2
Main advantage once you get it working it’s you will able to receive all the channels on demand and on multiple TV sets if properly distributed.
The disadvantage, for the newcomer it can be overly complicated and difficult to accomplish. If attempt this it would be preferable that you install have the ability to install the system as it could require many adjustments and lots of time, as I said before.
Remember one thing you can always go for option one then in the future upgrade to option two. I guess that is what I did :)
All the best!
BTW
Let me also try to clarify the meaning between ganging and combining antennas. First off I have always used the term combining antennas (in different directions) in the past, but after reading Stampeder post I realized that the proper termonology is “Ganging”
What is the difference between Ganging and Stacking two antennas?
• "Ganging" is the combining of 2 or more antennas' outputs together.
• "Stacking"is the specific combining of 2 identical antennas faced in the exact same direction for long distance, deepest fringe reception. For example, to stack 2 CM4228s for deepest fringe reception mount one above the other in the exact same aim with their reflector meshes just touching.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTGuy
Is there a way to combine two antennas to receive signals from two different locations?
Absolutely, but ideally the antennas must be identical. Ganging different types of antenna that use the same band (such as a CM4221 and a PR-9032 UHF antenna) can be very, very difficult, while combining a VHF with a UHF is routinely done and works very well.
In a case where we have UHF stations in two relatively fixed directions that are between about 20 to 160 degrees apart we might be able to avoid using a rotor by ganging two antennas, but we will have some work to do. First, it is highly advised that the antennas be identical. It is possible to gang different brands or types of UHF antenna, but for the newcomer it can be overly complicated and difficult to accomplish.
For this article we will assume that Antenna A and Antenna B are identical CM4228s and that the path from each to their respective target stations is clear.
When we gang two antennas it is essential to use one of these two methods to connect them, with more detailed information provided later in this article:
1. connecting their feed points by exactly equal lengths of 300 ohm twinlead (as short as possible) into a single balun, which then feeds into your preamp. If your antennas are subject to local interference use shielded, foam-filled 300 ohm twinlead.
2. connecting their feed points directly to individual baluns, which then feed over exactly the same length of coaxial cable into a joining device to create a single coax lead going into your preamp. Don't guess or be sloppy about it - they must match perfectly in length. A high frequency, high quality 2-to-1 splitter will suffice as a joining device. Such splitters can be found in many electronics and satellite stores, but avoid the cheapie ones. The balun-to-splitter cable can be RG59, but I personally use RG6 for everything.
At this point, regardless of which option we choose, we might face a very basic electronic problem. We'll need to make sure that the two antennas are in phase so that their signals complement eachother instead of cancelling eachother out. We won't be able to tell if there is a phase problem until we hook up a TV, so lets assume we're all hooked up and ready to test.
Now we face another very basic electronic problem. Ganged antennas cannot be too close together or their fields will interact in undesirable ways, so in the case of a CM4228 we should leave at least 25 inches of space between them (see explanation later in this article). Remember that this minimum distance does not apply to stacking, just ganging.
At this point we need to take our best guess as to the aim of the two antennas, but don't worry yet about getting it right. We just need to have some signal showing up on the screen. If there is little or no good signal after connecting the downleads of Antenna A and Antenna B through the splitter, disconnect the balun wires off of Antenna B, switch the two wires around, reconnect them to that antenna, check the TV, and we'll find that the signals are now in phase and are working properly together.
Next, we will have the actual aiming task to perform. The term for getting one antenna's aim perfect is called peaking. The most natural expectation is that we would disconnect Antenna A from the splitter and peak Antenna B perfectly for its intended station(s), then do the opposite to peak Antenna A for its own. If only it were that easy!
Unfortunately there may be some further aiming to do. The problem is that antennas like the CM4228 have a specific beam pattern of reception that has areas of strong and weak signal. For example, see this illustration of the CM4228's beam pattern (from the HDTV Primer site):
It’s time step back and make a decision. Option #1 Are you going to install a 4228 plus a rotor (easiest straight forward option) or Option # 2 try to combine (gang) two antennas in different directions.
Option #1
Main advantages are it is relatively easy to install and it works!
The main disadvantages of option one is you must have a rotor to receive all channels and
notably it is only good for one TV set a time.
Option #2
Main advantage once you get it working it’s you will able to receive all the channels on demand and on multiple TV sets if properly distributed.
The disadvantage, for the newcomer it can be overly complicated and difficult to accomplish. If attempt this it would be preferable that you install have the ability to install the system as it could require many adjustments and lots of time, as I said before.
Remember one thing you can always go for option one then in the future upgrade to option two. I guess that is what I did :)
All the best!
BTW
Let me also try to clarify the meaning between ganging and combining antennas. First off I have always used the term combining antennas (in different directions) in the past, but after reading Stampeder post I realized that the proper termonology is “Ganging”
What is the difference between Ganging and Stacking two antennas?
• "Ganging" is the combining of 2 or more antennas' outputs together.
• "Stacking"is the specific combining of 2 identical antennas faced in the exact same direction for long distance, deepest fringe reception. For example, to stack 2 CM4228s for deepest fringe reception mount one above the other in the exact same aim with their reflector meshes just touching.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTGuy
Is there a way to combine two antennas to receive signals from two different locations?
Absolutely, but ideally the antennas must be identical. Ganging different types of antenna that use the same band (such as a CM4221 and a PR-9032 UHF antenna) can be very, very difficult, while combining a VHF with a UHF is routinely done and works very well.
In a case where we have UHF stations in two relatively fixed directions that are between about 20 to 160 degrees apart we might be able to avoid using a rotor by ganging two antennas, but we will have some work to do. First, it is highly advised that the antennas be identical. It is possible to gang different brands or types of UHF antenna, but for the newcomer it can be overly complicated and difficult to accomplish.
For this article we will assume that Antenna A and Antenna B are identical CM4228s and that the path from each to their respective target stations is clear.
When we gang two antennas it is essential to use one of these two methods to connect them, with more detailed information provided later in this article:
1. connecting their feed points by exactly equal lengths of 300 ohm twinlead (as short as possible) into a single balun, which then feeds into your preamp. If your antennas are subject to local interference use shielded, foam-filled 300 ohm twinlead.
2. connecting their feed points directly to individual baluns, which then feed over exactly the same length of coaxial cable into a joining device to create a single coax lead going into your preamp. Don't guess or be sloppy about it - they must match perfectly in length. A high frequency, high quality 2-to-1 splitter will suffice as a joining device. Such splitters can be found in many electronics and satellite stores, but avoid the cheapie ones. The balun-to-splitter cable can be RG59, but I personally use RG6 for everything.
At this point, regardless of which option we choose, we might face a very basic electronic problem. We'll need to make sure that the two antennas are in phase so that their signals complement eachother instead of cancelling eachother out. We won't be able to tell if there is a phase problem until we hook up a TV, so lets assume we're all hooked up and ready to test.
Now we face another very basic electronic problem. Ganged antennas cannot be too close together or their fields will interact in undesirable ways, so in the case of a CM4228 we should leave at least 25 inches of space between them (see explanation later in this article). Remember that this minimum distance does not apply to stacking, just ganging.
At this point we need to take our best guess as to the aim of the two antennas, but don't worry yet about getting it right. We just need to have some signal showing up on the screen. If there is little or no good signal after connecting the downleads of Antenna A and Antenna B through the splitter, disconnect the balun wires off of Antenna B, switch the two wires around, reconnect them to that antenna, check the TV, and we'll find that the signals are now in phase and are working properly together.
Next, we will have the actual aiming task to perform. The term for getting one antenna's aim perfect is called peaking. The most natural expectation is that we would disconnect Antenna A from the splitter and peak Antenna B perfectly for its intended station(s), then do the opposite to peak Antenna A for its own. If only it were that easy!
Unfortunately there may be some further aiming to do. The problem is that antennas like the CM4228 have a specific beam pattern of reception that has areas of strong and weak signal. For example, see this illustration of the CM4228's beam pattern (from the HDTV Primer site):