: OTA Mounts, Towers, Rigging Hardware



intravino
2009-07-16, 11:43 PM
Kooguy:


Can you just use one mount of the eave?



Thanks,


Intravino

kooguy
2009-07-17, 07:00 AM
Kooguy:


Can you just use one mount of the eave?



Thanks,


Intravino
Yes, it is poosible...One of the DHCer used a 39" J pipe plus extension (total 6.5') on eave for two stacked 4221 and seems to be ok. I think 2x4221 will have about the same weight as your 6' Yagi. However, he used 1" aluminum pipe to keep the mast light and strong.

See his picture in post#67 under thread "Combining 2 Antennas: Is it possible".

My suggestion is to go with two mounts if possible, just want to have peace of mind. Here is my setup for 91XG - 3" and 6" CM mounts on eave and wall together, so that I can have 3' distance a part for the two mounts.

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j242/kooguy_2006/DSCF1997.jpg

roger1818
2009-07-17, 09:39 AM
Yes, it is poosible...One of the DHCer used a 39" J pipe plus extension (total 6.5') on eave for two stacked 4221 and seems to be ok. I think 2x4221 will have about the same weight as your 6' Yagi. However, he used 1" aluminum pipe to keep the mast light and strong.

Oh my goodness. I would not recommend this! One good wind storm and you will likely find your antenna lying on the ground, possibly with a chunk of your eave.

goforit
2009-07-17, 10:57 AM
I recently moved my antenna setup from the front side of my house to near the side back. Before, the antennas (stacked 4221HDs) had maybe 5 feet of roof they shot over when pointed east to the BUF stations. Now with the antennas further back-they shoot over much more of the roof and only about 5 to 10 feet above the roof. In addition the aim of the antennas is different. Example: For WUTV and antennas near the front of the house- the antennas were aimed due east. Now that the antennas are near the back of the house- the aiming for WUTV is more south east- it seems it's away from the transmitter.

In addition, I can get TO stations when the antenna is aimed in the opposite direction (south) which is across the whole roof.

My neighbour also has a two story house about 10 feet from me- could this also have an impact on my OTA reception.

Overall, I think my reception was better when the antennas went over less of the roof (near the front of the house).

Can the roof have an impact on reception?

What are my options- move antennas to front of house- raise antennas, use a yagi antenna, other?

stampeder
2009-07-17, 11:12 AM
Are they using conventional shingles? Metal roofs and siding can cause multipath interference.

goforit
2009-07-17, 11:25 AM
All brick homes. Front of the house has a steep roof- maybe this increased signal up to the antennas? Maybe it would be better closer to the roof?

kooguy
2009-07-17, 11:53 AM
All brick homes. Front of the house has a steep roof- maybe this increased signal up to the antennas? Maybe it would be better closer to the roof?
Goforit,

LOS is important...I would like the antenna be taller than my neighbour's house or trees. In my situation, I have houses (same height as mine) across the street and also some tall trees (taller then the house). You can see my 4221 setup picture above. I have to shoot through gap between the trees to get good reception.

If I mount my 4221 at back of the house (where that 91XG location is), I have very poor reception unless I raise my antenna like 15' above the roof.

However, the 91XG can shoot through trees without any problem with reception when compare to bowtie.

Knight
2009-07-20, 10:16 PM
Hi Stampeder!

Sorry for the very delayed reply...

I wanted to take some pictures of the tower but if I wait until I have time to do it it might take a while...

First of all, just remember the old saying "getting to the bottom of things" because that is where the maximum stress on any tower is. The strongest part of a tower must be at the bottom, with the stresses being a bit less and less as you get to the top, so let that guide you if you need to actually do repairs and aren't sure which end to start at.

The bottom of the tower seems to be in pretty good shape.. The worst of the "damage" appears to be higher on the tower...


If it has big problems at the base, you might want to just walk away unless you are a skilled metal worker.

Definitely not the case, I'm a programmer/network admin...

If a house bracket is being used, it also is a critical point of stress on both the tower and the house. In many Canadian municipalities a house will fail a building inspection if a tower is attached by a worn or corroded bracket or if the roof end joist is showing any signs of stress.

If by house bracket you mean something which attach it to the eave (I guess that's the best way to describe where it attaches), this is what I have...

From what I can see the house bracket appears to be pretty rusted...

is it a free standing tower or is it guy wired?

Neither... It attaches to the eave and the bottom is "nailed" into the ground using nail-looking posts...

(I only see the top of these posts and they kind of look like big nails...)

On a free standing tower I'd start right at the bottom, examining the base, the concrete, and the lower uprights for strength.

I wish it was...

If the condition of the tower is visibly poor most pros would not climb it for insurance and personal reasons, so if you're okay with going up there:

Nope, I am actually afraid of heights... )-;

if the tower is made of galvanized steel you can get a special cutting compound (phone some local auto body shops to see where you can buy some of this nasty stuff) that you rub onto the surface that will take it down past the corrosion to have a look at the metal

I was told it was galvanized steel but if it was shouldn't it have stayed in pretty good shape (which is as far as I can tell, not the case higher up in the tower...).

There is another thing I don't like about it is that the way this tower is made it's made with small metal brackets which cross each other (X) and these brackets seem pretty flimsy (they were always like that though AFAIK...)...

If it's beyond repair, do I need to have it removed by somebody which specialize in tower and antennas or is there any other kind of specialist/professional who could remove it? Can the same guys which install these things (assuming I find one, I have tried to find one for quite a while now...) remove them as well?

(If I get it removed it's to install a new one, preferably free-standing if I can find somebody who will do the job...)

Thank you very much for your help!

Nick

stampeder
2009-07-21, 12:50 AM
Galvanized steel doesn't rust, so that's a tip off. It should look dull grey. The roof bracket was painted steel, I assume, so if it is very rusty I would not trust it or the fasteners used to join it to the roof.If I get it removed it's to install a new one, preferably free-standing if I can find somebody who will do the job...I think that's the ticket - a package deal. If they come and take down the old one you'll buy a new one. :)

Jase88
2009-07-31, 09:32 PM
Oh my goodness. I would not recommend this! One good wind storm and you will likely find your antenna lying on the ground, possibly with a chunk of your eave.
Today I noticed one such j-bracket installation in my neighbourhood, with at least 5' of mast, a rotor, and a CM4228HD. No guy wires, just the j-bracket. And the install is close to his aerial hydro stack. (I'll try to get a photo tomorrow).

I almost wanted to knock on his door and offer him some help....but alas, some people must learn the hard way. ;)

Knight
2009-08-02, 09:26 PM
Hi Stampeder!

Galvanized steel doesn't rust, so that's a tip off. It should look dull grey.

That's what I though... I'm not sure what was initially protecting the tower but whatever it was, it has slowly let it rust...

I was surprised when I was told it was supposedly galvanized steel because as far I knew (and has you have confirmed) it's not supposed/can't rust...

The roof bracket was painted steel, I assume, so if it is very rusty I would not trust it or the fasteners used to join it to the roof.

:(

I think that's the ticket - a package deal. If they come and take down the old one you'll buy a new one. :)

Oh, I could even add a (true) FTA dish to that if the installer can install this as well... Problem is the only installer I heard about that supposedly install in my region was Montcalm and they did not seem to be interested to respond to my inquiries (they responded only partially to one of my emails and never replied to the other). I don't know why (-; but I'm not that interested to deal with a company which doesn't bother to answer their (future) clients inquiries...

Thank you very much for your help!

Nick

Legacy2009
2009-08-03, 12:00 AM
Galvanized steel is not an alloy of steel like stainless steel is. Galvanized is mild steel with a zinc coating applied to the surface, either by dipping in molten zinc (hot dip galvanized) or electroplating. It can easily be damaged by impact or over time.

stampeder
2009-08-03, 02:04 AM
Problem is the only installer I heard about that supposedly install in my region was MontcalmOh, you're in the Montreal area? We have had a string of negative comments about that company recently :eek: but there might be other options:

OTA: Quebec Parts, Sales, Service, Installers (http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=51078)

DdDave
2009-08-03, 09:23 PM
I was surprised when I was told it was supposedly galvanized steel because as far I knew (and has you have confirmed) it's not supposed/can't rust...

Zinc is a sacrificial coating that prevents the steel from corroding and it will eventually give out. On bridges and other marine structures the steel is often protected by large pieces of zinc that are bolted on to the structure and periodically replaced to continue the corrosion protection.

If a tower has a significant amount of corrosion then it is probably either really old, was heavily used for climbing and the zinc plating was worn off, or was poorly coated in the first place. The environment also plays a factor, if it is subject to salt spray from being beside the ocean then it will corrode faster than being smack in the middle of a desert and staying bone dry.

Knight
2009-08-04, 09:25 PM
Thank Legacy2009 and DdDave, I definitely learned something new today...

I did not know it was only a coating and not something that actually made the metal corrosion proof...

I do have a question though, those big hydro electrical towers what are they made of, stainless steel?

Thank you!

Nick

plabonte
2009-08-05, 08:54 AM
Best roof mount?

What kind of mount do people recomend? I have a home built DB8 type antenna and it is currently in my attic but I want to move it to the roof...

Any suggestions for places to get that equipment in the Ottawa area?

Thanks!

roger1818
2009-08-05, 10:02 AM
Thank Legacy2009 and DdDave, I definitely learned something new today...

I did not know it was only a coating and not something that actually made the metal corrosion proof...

It is more than just a coating like paint. The zinc causes causes a galvanic reaction to occur preventing the steel from rusting even if there are scratches in the zinc exposing bare steel (the zinc is a reducing agent, so it will oxidize instead of the steel). Once the zinc has been depleted, or if it is worn off of a large area the steel will begin to rust however.

I do have a question though, those big hydro electrical towers what are they made of, stainless steel?

No, I believe they are made of galvanized steel as it is stronger than stainless steel. They likely use more zinc than is used in a cheap, consumer grade TV tower where they are trying to keep costs at a minimum.

goforit
2009-08-05, 10:50 AM
Does anyone have a manual/link on how to climb towers with a harness?

I would really like to know the correct procedures on how to climb with the harness.

stampeder
2009-08-05, 11:54 AM
I haven't seen a manual posted here before, but a buddy of mine teaches climbing safety for BC Hydro (http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=962253&postcount=16) and I've used his gear - did you buy a harness?

Your harness should have 2 or more carabiners (clips) so that when you're at the bottom and starting to climb you clip one onto the tower an armslength above you, then as you climb to where its even with your belly you clip the next one an armslength up, repeating as you go up so that one is always connected while you're unclipping and clipping the other. When you get to the height you want just clip both of them on but on different parts of the tower structure.

The most important thing is that you are never unclipped from both at the same time until you are back safely on the ground again.

goforit
2009-08-05, 12:10 PM
Thank you Stampeder. I'm just in the process of getting one. I'm a total novice at this and appreciate your help. I need to replace a pre-amp and hopefully with the harness it should be easy. Any department stores carry the harness?