Yes...I agree DdDave.
Tapcons should only be used in brick.
If you have to fix to concrete,use expansion anchors or lag bolts and shields.

Either way,you still have to drill holes.Small ones for Tapcons or larger ones for anchors or sleeves.

Well it's up. Tapcon screws are into the brick, not mortar. But I'll still be nervous during the first windstorm. Maybe I'll watch something and if I suddenly get 'no signal' followed by a loud crash...

I put a plastic owl, available at Home Depot or TSC stores up on the top of the antenna post to keep 'em off my bowties. Don't see birds coming around at all anymore.
Oops, sorry, didn't see that its not an option!

Hi:
I have an apartment on the top floor of the building. It has a shaft going up to the roof to allow light down into the apartment, and there is a glass skylight up top there, in which I was considering raising an antenna - there is sufficient room to rotate the antenna to tune into whatever station. Overall the skylight is shaped a bit like a pyramid/peaked roof so water runs off it. Its a great location, probably 70 feet above street level.
However, the glass is reinforced with those fine wires arranged hexagon-style throughout, to keep it from shattering I guess.
Will the reinforcing wires in the glass substantially impact on signal reception, to anyone's experience?

Thanks in advance

Bumps

Bumpstop, unfortunately any metal mesh in and around an antenna has properties that can affect the reception. For a technical explanation it is like a Faraday Cage (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faraday_cage), which we refer to in discussions about grounding and cable shielding.

I would test to see what happens, but don't be surprised if the results are not great. Also keep in mind that there might also be coatings on the glass that could also have adverse effects.

Thanks stampeder;
The glass is likely very (70 yrs) old so probably no fancy coatings on it, but the wire is wire. I'll give it a go as it won't cost me anything to try it, and the alternatives will!

B

While I had the antenna down for 4221HD hardware hacks I installed my bird deterrent. My fingers are crossed.

http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/picture.php?albumid=120&pictureid=1153

http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/picture.php?albumid=120&pictureid=1151

Clever solution, but just one critique - those are white ties, which are not UV resistant so will rapidly deteriorate, so if you can replace them with black or grey ones they'll last for many years. :)

While I had the antenna down for 4221HD hardware hacks I installed my bird deterrent. My fingers are crossed.


Let us know if it works. I'm about to put my antenna outside shortly and will do the same if it proves to work.

Larry

What is the small brass s-shaped bracket, that comes in the 4221 (old style)acessories bag, supposed to be used for?

One side of the S is the right size to clamp on to the balun, but the other side has nothing to attach to, as it is too narrow to clamp on to the antenna's vertical post.

those are white ties, which are not UV resistant so will rapidly deteriorate, so if you can replace them with black or grey ones they'll last for many years.
Indeed I agree 100%. All I had laying around the house were white ones. So far so good as far as the bird deterrent goes though

What is the small brass s-shaped bracket, that comes in the 4221 (old style)acessories bag, supposed to be used for?

One side of the S is the right size to clamp on to the balun, but the other side has nothing to attach to, as it is too narrow to clamp on to the antenna's vertical post.
I'd be interested in knowing this, too..
Mine's sitting (somewhere) on my desk with a bunch of clutter from my 4228 :p
It's obviously not vital to the function of the antenna.. ;)

Well so far so good regarding my bird deterrent. (see post #948)
Since I have put the antenna back up on the roof Saturday morning I am glad to announce the birds have not tried to land nor rest on my antenna.
This one might be worth trying if you are in the same situation.

bye bye bird poop.......

bye bye bird poop.......

I have seen birds use the small bars used to hold the tower itself as a perch so you might not be entirely free of that... :rolleyes:

Good luck!

Nick

Hi!

Is there any way to evaluate if a tower is still good?

My (old) tower seems pretty rusty in some places but I was told it might only be surface rust, is there any way to make sure it's still OK?'

Thank you!

Nick

Is there any way to evaluate if a tower is still good?First of all, just remember the old saying "getting to the bottom of things" because that is where the maximum stress on any tower is. The strongest part of a tower must be at the bottom, with the stresses being a bit less and less as you get to the top, so let that guide you if you need to actually do repairs and aren't sure which end to start at. If it has big problems at the base, you might want to just walk away unless you are a skilled metal worker. If a house bracket is being used, it also is a critical point of stress on both the tower and the house. In many Canadian municipalities a house will fail a building inspection if a tower is attached by a worn or corroded bracket or if the roof end joist is showing any signs of stress.

is it a free standing tower or is it guy wired? On a free standing tower I'd start right at the bottom, examining the base, the concrete, and the lower uprights for strength. If it is not free standing, the condition of any guy wires (their connectors and anchors too) is the first thing I'd check.

If the condition of the tower is visibly poor most pros would not climb it for insurance and personal reasons, so if you're okay with going up there:

if the tower is made of galvanized steel you can get a special cutting compound (phone some local auto body shops to see where you can buy some of this nasty stuff) that you rub onto the surface that will take it down past the corrosion to have a look at the metal
if the tower is made of painted standard steel you could take a metal brush and see what's under the corrosion to see what it might need
if you see any irregularities regardless of the metal just post some closeup photos here and we can maybe help you decide on what to do
I saw a galvanized steel ham radio tower in New Westminster, BC that was restored with a rubdown of cutting compound, and when he saw some ripples in some of the lower uprights he went to Home Depot and bought some fence top rails (10' 17ga. galvanized steel) and lots of hot-dipped galvanized u-bolts and reinforced the lower tower that way, with no need for the evil welding of galvanized steel

I have a big black pole that is roughly 15 feet tall and can easily connect The bottom parts of J poles with bolts in my backyard. Is there something they might have at a home depot that is maybe 10 feet tall or so and can connect similar like a J pole , so I can gain some more height , thanks.

Try either chainlink fence top rail or electrical EMT conduit. The latter comes in various sizes, but both are under $20. I just bought 1" EMT at HD to use for a mast for $11.

Use 10' x 1.5" (O.D.) EMT conduit, it is a lot stronger. Just a little peace of mind given that we do have some serious wacky weather around here.

Good point - I wasn't suggesting use of 1", just that the EMT can be had at a good price in many sizes. I'm using mine as more of a short "leaning post" than a mast and should have stated as such - my bad.

Ok so at home depot , I can buy this EMT and have about 25 feet of height for 10 bucks, sounds good.