STL,

Watch out with those chimney mounts, my antennas fell this past week, the galvanized straps rusted apart. I fixed it with aviation wire and all is good now.

How long were they in use?

Thanks upchuck247.

I use two sets of chimney mounts for a total of 4 straps going around the chimney. The straps are at least 2.5' apart from highest to lowest, if not 3'. The box did say that the straps were stainless steel though.

STL

I bought the CM9036 18" wall brackets and an 8' 1 1/2" galvanized fence post from Home Depot to install an HD4221 just below my eaves.

My house has brick exterior and the wall brackets came with 1 1/2" lag bolts which I'm sure could only be used if you were going straight into wood.

What should I be using to mount the wall brackets on the brick wall. There is a 19" span between the holes on the brackets. Would that correspond to the stud spacing on a typical house? Do I need to ensure I get these anchored into the studs behind the brick, or are there other options (anchoring to the brick) which would be secure enough?

Sorry for the elementary questions. I searched the thread but didn't find anything.

Dave

Dave, stud centres are usually 16" apart so can you confirm that indoors with a stud locator? Can you drill new holes into the brackets to match that?

Proper lag bolts will need to be the depth of the brick plus about 2" added. You'll probably need a hammer drill to go through bricks without breaking them into rubble, then you can use a slightly undersized spade bit with hammering set to off in order to drill a pilot hole into the studs. You should be able to sink the lag bolts with a socket set and a breaker bar for extra leverage, but you might need an air gun/compressor to sink the lag bolts solidly that deep. When the lag bolts have been sunk you should dab some caulking all around the head for waterproofing and draftproofing.

The wall brackets are V shaped, so I can't change the 19" width. I was thinking of aligning 1 side of the bracket to a stud, then use an anchor for the other side, but I'm not sure if that would be strong enough or what type to use.

Also, I think there is a gap between the brick and the actual wall. What size gap is that typically?

Thanks for the fast response BTW. Just going to head out to the hardware store to snoop around.

I can't remember what the building codes east of the Prairies specify for a brick to facing gap, but lots of people here like Yaamon would know.

Just got back from the hardware store. After describing what I was putting up and how, the guy was adamant that all I would need are 1/4" x 2" tapcon screws into the brick. Very dubious about that. I also got some 1/4" x 6" lag bolts hoping that I can find at least 1 stud.

Just got back from the hardware store. After describing what I was putting up and how, the guy was adamant that all I would need are 1/4" x 2" tapcon screws into the brick. Very dubious about that.

I was at the Home Depot for this exact same reason this weekend. I agree the bolts that are supplied with the brackets are designed for wood. I tried to see if lead shields would work with them, but they don't seem to be a standard thread so I wouldn't trust a shield.

I am also mounting to bricks, and I'm going to use 1/4" x 1 3/4" tapcons. At Home Depot they have a strength rating for the various sizes, and I the size I chose is rated for something like 280lbs in tension and 380lbs in shear (the numbers are not exact because they are from memory, but they give you the idea of strength). I think this will be more than enough.

I also got some 1/4" x 6" lag bolts hoping that I can find at least 1 stud.

I think the odds of hitting a stud are pretty minimal and not worth the effort. By the time your lag goes through the brick, the airgap, the exterior cladding (which could be 1" of foam), you may only be gripping into 1 or 1.5" of wood and may or may not be in the centre. The tensile strength may be no better than the tapcons are rated for.

If you really want holding power use a lag with shields, but it's probably overkill.

I hope this question has not been asked before.If so I apologize.Does a metal roof on a home hamper or inhance reception for an anntena?Also how important is the height above the roof for reception?Thanks for your replies....Bart53

I have three neighbors with antennas and metal roofs. They report excellent performance with their antennas (mounted 5 to 7 feet above the ridge).

Also how important is the height above the roof for reception?

From Stampeder's FAQ

Mount antennas outdoors and as high as possible, free from obstructions

You want a clear view of the sky hence "the higher the better" logic.

...I think the odds of hitting a stud are pretty minimal and not worth the effort...

Yeah I'll be putting it up just with the tapcon screws; tomorrow, weather permitting.

I guess I'm just a bit worried with the strong windstorms that we seem to be getting the last couple of years. Typical wind direction is into the wall that will have the antenna mount. The wind would create a lot of outward pressure on the mast end which is attached to the wall?

David_Hanlon, if it doesn't seem to be solid enough you might want to go with guy wires just for the extra wind resistance. Thankfully your single CM4221HD does not have much of a wind catcher profile though.

Yeah I'll be putting it up just with the tapcon screws

I found a site with some tapcon installation tips, they advise to install the tapcons in the brick, not the mortar. Some sites say you can do either, but the general opinion seems to be in the brick, not the mortar.

http://www.itwproline.com.au/Tapcon/default.aspx

I found a site with some tapcon installation tips, they advise to install the tapcons in the brick, not the mortar. Some sites say you can do either, but the general opinion seems to be in the brick, not the mortar.

http://www.itwproline.com.au/Tapcon/default.aspx
Yes...I agree DdDave.
Tapcons should only be used in brick.
If you have to fix to concrete,use expansion anchors or lag bolts and shields.

Either way,you still have to drill holes.Small ones for Tapcons or larger ones for anchors or sleeves.

the darn birds are using my antenna as a perching ground for there territorial area. Bird crap is collecting and this is not sitting well with me.

I found a suggestion that I will adapt when the new pre amp comes in. I am gonna use black tie wraps and along the top rung of my 4221HD I will run it along spacing them around 2-3 cm's apart with the length's cut longer and facing upwards terminating the ends with 45 degree cuts.

I really don't want a fake owl up there. My neighbors will really think I'm off the wall.

I'll take a picture of this set up when I'm done. I'm sure I'm not the first with bird issue's nor the last.

Mark

I've seen something similar - plastic prongy cat whisker things - used on wide window ledges of an office building to keep pigeons away. I wasn't there long enough to do extensive observation, but I never saw a sign of a pigeon or any pigeon guano on those ledges.

the darn birds are using my antenna as a perching ground for there territorial area. Bird crap is collectingTime for a plastic owl on a bobble-head mount. :)I really don't want a fake owl up there. My neighbors will really think I'm off the wall.Neighbours schmeighbours... this is war! :D

plastic prongy cat whisker thingsOr a piece of treated lumber with dozens of long nails through it, pointing upwards. Unfortunately that would not be suitable for an antenna. :eek: