: OTA Mounts, Towers, Rigging Hardware



michael_lx6
2009-05-23, 07:26 AM
michael_lx6

Overall, it looks pretty secure to me... The only downside to a chimney mounted antenna is corrosion.

How much do you get out of the mini-state omni ?

The CM4221 with the adjustable 20-30db gain is a good choice.Hello OTA canuck,

corrosion will probably not be an issue for years to come as the antenna's are far from the flu exhaust fumes. Also, most of the hardware on my kit is stainless fasteners/straps and a galvanized bracket.

The Mini-state is actually labeled as a radio shack model made by Antenna Craft about 10 years ago. You know,,, years ago the wife said she didn't want an ugly antenna and I chose this model to work on its own.It picks up all OTA HD from Buffalo and Hamilton. Its been pretty good ! Although I will have to credit my location in Niagara. We are quite lucky to get the stations/reception that we do on any antenna array.

Michael

michael_lx6
2009-05-23, 07:44 AM
Your chimney mount does look very sturdy. (Very neat install-nice job!!) I use 3 straps around the chimney, because I wanted to make the installation rock solid. I tried to post a pic, but for some reason the forum will not let me????????


Hi hoopitup,

thanks for the remarks.
I didn't want to add a middle or third strap/bracket.
You must have a tall chimney.

My chimney would not allow me add a third strap with 3 feet minimum distance from the top strap. The instructions tell me that the distance /separation is important. ( more twisting/stress will be applied due to leverage).


Unfortunately, when i mounted my new antenna's I found more darn work for me! Although the chimney brick work is flawless and strong,,,the top clay flu's above the chimney crown were starting to crack from the weather elements. I had to buy a bag of heat resistant cement, make 2 forms and repair the flu's. I went from mr. antenna to mr. cement head all in the same day.
: )



Michael

roger1818
2009-05-23, 01:38 PM
My chimney would not allow me add a third strap with 3 feet minimum distance from the top strap. The instructions tell me that the distance /separation is important. ( more twisting/stress will be applied due to leverage).

That minimum distance is likely assuming you only have 2 straps and a third one could be added as long as the minimum spacing between the top and bottom strap is maintained. Having said that, the vast majority of the stress is on the top and bottom straps and a third strap won't do much unless one of the other two straps breaks.

michael_lx6
2009-05-23, 05:41 PM
Hi again,

your probably right.

I cant see an additional strap hindering the strength of the mast.

Michael

jgvp
2009-05-23, 05:57 PM
Hi Michael_lx6

Looks very neat and well done. What exactly are the masts composed of ?
Does the slight wobble affect the picture any ?

michael_lx6
2009-05-23, 07:05 PM
Hi,

the mast is the recommended 1.25" galvanized steel / EMT.
Pretty much the standard.

Well there isnt much wobble until very strong + 40KMH gusts.
The double masts are inline to the west/s winds.
Certainly, more rigid that just the one mast.

michael

fly32
2009-05-29, 10:23 AM
Hi,

I didn't know if OTA would work for me so I set up my antenna on the side of my house with a j-pipe mount and a PVC conduit tube to extend the height. It was pretty ghetto looking and swayed in the wind so, after proving that OTA is worth investing in, I decided to upgrade to a proper Channel Master 12" wall mount with a 10' metal conduit so it's more sturdy. Surprisingly, my signal strength dropped and I lost a few channels.

Does anyone know why going to a metal conduit actually affects signal strength? What should I do to fix it? It's not grounded so I was thinking maybe the metal conduit is affected by windshear??

Yaamon
2009-05-29, 10:26 AM
Normally it should not affect reception if you mounted it in the same spot.

I know there are sweet spot but I have not encountered weak reception because of the pole.

Was there any other changes cable length or connectors ?

stampeder
2009-05-29, 10:49 AM
fly32, all outdoor antennas from mainstream manufacturers are designed and engineered for use with metal poles. PVC, ABS, and other plastics are not suitable for antenna poles because they flex, even if it doesn't seem like much.

Over in our Antenna Research & Development Forum there are two great threads dealing with this materials issue:

Best Metals for Antennas: Soldering, Welding, Bending, Working (http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=102202)

ABS, PVC, PEX and other plastics for structural parts (http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=96673)

fly32
2009-05-29, 11:01 AM
Yaamon: Nope, nothing else changed.. The antenna is at the exact same spot as before.

Stampeder: I read those before I posted. Couldn't understand half of what people said so I figured it wasn't related to what I was asking. One of the posts talks about material to build your own antenna. I bought a CM4221HD antenna so it can't be that.

I'll take it down and recheck everything -- make sure things are secured tightly.

quickcurrent
2009-05-29, 11:15 AM
Installing anything on your roof is asking for problems with leaks in the future. You may want to consider getting it installed with brackets mounted on your wall to clear the roof overhang and the appropriate length of mast.

quickcurrent

stampeder
2009-05-29, 11:28 AM
Certain types of PVC will degrade in ultraviolet light from sunshine, so you can check in that thread about plastics whether yours is okay or not.

Personally I would use extruded steel or galvanized steel pipe for the job, but the metals thread discusses important issues about not mixing metals due to certain types of corrosion.

fly32
2009-05-29, 12:56 PM
The reception on the PVC tube was fine.. It's only after I switched to galvinized steel that reception dropped. thought maybe cuz of static electricity from windshear that's causing interference. Maybe I'll just saw off a bit of the PVC to attach to the end and see if that helps. will try that this weekend and post my results. Thanks.

Yaamon
2009-05-29, 03:05 PM
As you said it's in the same location, I would first check the connector at the antenna.

If you have your antenna grounded you should not have any problems with static build up, hope you grounded the antenna.

Good luck.

roger1818
2009-05-29, 07:52 PM
micah, installing anything on your roof is asking for problems with leaks in the future. You may want to consider getting it installed with brackets mounted on your wall to clear the roof overhang and the appropriate length of mast.

I disagree. If installed properly and all 3 legs are bolted into something solid (not just the roof's sheathing) you shouldn't have any problems with leaks. Problems occur when the installer gets lazy and doesn't do his job properly.

stampeder
2009-05-29, 11:22 PM
Hopefully they find a roof joist right away, because then measuring it out helps to find others on which to anchor the mount. Waterproofing the lag bolts is necessary after that:

OTA Waterproofing, Sealants, Adhesives, Paint (http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=104181)

quickcurrent
2009-05-30, 12:02 PM
roger1818, you're entitled to disagree, that's your prerogative.

My own experience is that regardless of where on the roof you attach your antenna (or anything on the roof for that matter), you're breaking through the shingles (or whatever roofing material you may be using). That means you'll be using a sealant (probably some sort of caulking) which will eventually loosen and cause leaks (regardless of what quality you use). I've learned that the hard way, cost me several sheets of plywood sheathing the last time I re-roofed at about $50 per sheet installed (and you pay for one sheet for each part sheet).

So my advice remains - unless you're planning to move within a short number of years, don't place your antenna, satellite dish, or anything else that doesn't have to go on the roof, there. You'll thank yourself at re-roofing time.

roger1818
2009-05-30, 12:22 PM
That means you'll be using a sealant (probably some sort of caulking) which will eventually loosen and cause leaks (regardless of what quality you use).

That is your problem. Caulking should never be used on a roof. As you discovered, even the best stuff isn't designed to last the 20+ years the roof will last. You need to use roofing tar. That is what roofers use to seal around cracks and crevices and it will last as long as the roof.

To be safe, put some tar under the tripod leg as well as over the lag bolt.

stampeder
2009-05-30, 12:34 PM
Earlier in this thread we've discussed what to do for successful rooftop mounts, and in the Waterproofing thread we describe all the best products for that use, but I think the warning remains:

Don't do a sloppy job! Do the proper waterproofing, and definitely do the work needed to find a proper joist to sink the lag bolts into.

If you are unsure about whether you can do those, look up non-penetrating roof mounts in this same thread. :)

stampeder
2009-05-30, 05:20 PM
In my own municipality of Delta, British Columbia, Canada, a home owner can erect a self-supporting TV antenna tower without the need for a building permit provided that no part of the tower, including its guy wires, may touch a building or structure on the property. If the tower is to be bracketed to a roof joist or if a guy wire is to be anchored on the home, garage, or deck, or if any part of the tower makes contact with such structures in any way, a building permit must be obtained. This does not apply to an antenna tripod, chimney mount, or satellite dish mount.

To avoid any legal issues with your municipality, home owners thinking of putting up a tower should always consult with them first to determine if any by-laws apply. If an installer is doing the job, clarify with them first whether a permit is required in your municipality. Condo owners will of course also need to consult their Strata Councils before putting one up.