: OTA Mounts, Towers, Rigging Hardware
roger1818 2009-03-06, 02:19 PM I was toying with the idea of a galv. steel pipe secured firmly to the roof trusses for several feet below the roof line; it would protrude only about a foot above the roof line and be sealed from leaking ( hopefully successfully ) with roof tar and flashing.
Although having the galv. steel pipe protruding above the roof will reduce the amount of flexing inside the roof, it won't eliminate it as anything above the top brace (including the galv. steel pipe) will flex. As the roofing tar dries up it will start to crack with this flexing. If you keep applying fresh roofing tar every year or two, you might be able to prevent leaks, but I still don't recommend this approach.
Techluvr 2009-03-06, 02:20 PM Penalty, #1818 High Stick 2 minutes.
stampeder 2009-03-06, 02:22 PM Infinitely better than the old Grecian Formula commercials: "Hey roger1818, 2 minutes for lookin' so good!" :D
roger1818 2009-03-06, 02:57 PM Infinitely better than the old Grecian Formula commercials: "Hey roger1818, 2 minutes for lookin' so good!" :D
Hey! I don't have that many gray hairs! :)
Jase88 2009-03-06, 05:11 PM @balm: 80' isn't necessary for my area--it's just what I was able to buy in good condition on the used market. We do have trees in the area that are at least 50' - 70', so an 80' tower would likely be best anyways.
The tower was purchased locally from an American friend (he has a house here). He was kind enough to deliver it.
Once I set the base in concrete and ensure it's level, I will add--with the help of a friend--each section at a time. Two of us will be harnessed to the top of each section, bolt the next section in, and use a rope to pull up the next section, and continue.
I will likely buy some rebar to reinforce the concrete.
We've done it before, and it goes rather quickly once the base has set.
Of course you can use scissor or other lifts to make the work go easier and quicker--and if you're afraid of heights. But that just adds expense to the project, and I'm not afraid of heights....
jase88:
you must also be in pretty good shape also!...
could you be so kind to post photos of the work in site like photobucket...
once you raise each subsequent section up by rope, how is it suspended I assume from further above, while you bolt...
Jase88 2009-03-06, 06:46 PM I will definitely post pics...just waiting for a good thaw so I can dig the hole.
You've got to coordinate the section lift together, and stick it on the pegs quickly. It's not as difficult as it sounds.
HDTV101 2009-03-06, 07:25 PM Hi Jase, yeah take lots of pics please ... we all love to see that tower go up! 80 feet.... WOW! What area do you live in?
Techluvr 2009-03-06, 07:39 PM Once I set the base in concrete and ensure it's level, I will add--with the help of a friend--each section at a time. Two of us will be harnessed to the top of each section, bolt the next section in, and use a rope to pull up the next section, and continue.
I will likely buy some rebar to reinforce the concrete.
We've done it before, and it goes rather quickly once the base has set.
Of course you can use scissor or other lifts to make the work go easier and quicker--and if you're afraid of heights. But that just adds expense to the project, and I'm not afraid of heights....
How will you stop it from becoming the "leaning tower of Pisa"? Even if it appears level after setting the base, the slightest tilt will be amplified after each section.
When I installed the 50' tower, I planned to brace it to the side of the house. I dug the hole and constructed the tower flat on the ground with the base at the hole. I put a pulley at the peak of the roof and ran a 3/4" thick polypropylene rope from the tower through the pulley and to the bumper of my pick-up. Once I raised the tower, I loosely fastened it to the house but was still able to move it around a little bit to level it. Once level, I tightened the clamps to the house and poured the concrete at the base. I did the job alone; I was young and foolish back then :rolleyes:
Jase88 2009-03-06, 10:23 PM @Techluvr: Good question! Unfortunately this tower's sections slope in to the top (base section is much wider than top section). Thus making bracing somewhat more difficult, as well as determining if it's perfectly straight. Add to that this tower can't be built against the house.
How I intend to approach it is by installing the first section when the concrete is poured, and building a small wood frame to hold the section straight until the concrete is set. I'll use a weight on a string to determine that we've got a perfect vertical. Hopefully we get it right... ;) I've never done a freestanding tower, so it'll be interesting.
With bracketed towers, I don't bury them in the ground. I lay a tower ground plate, and rent a gas-powered stake driver to bury three long stakes into the ground. Then I add the sections and install the bracket. I suppose you can use a slegehammer to drive the stakes, but that's time and energy consuming.
Techluvr 2009-03-07, 10:46 AM With bracketed towers, I don't bury them in the ground. I lay a tower ground plate, and rent a gas-powered stake driver to bury three long stakes into the ground. Then I add the sections and install the bracket. I suppose you can use a slegehammer to drive the stakes, but that's time and energy consuming.
Where I lived, on the Canadian Shield, you couldn't dig more than 2' before hitting bedrock. Grounding rods were horizontal! Any deep trenching involved jack-hammers and dynamite. A free-standing tower would be difficult to install. The concrete was probably not necessary; it seemed a good idea at the time.
Jase88 2009-03-07, 02:40 PM My family has property in eastern Ontario--we're very familiar with the Canadian Shield and it's unique ground conditions. ;)
Our former cottage in the area has a log tower built for a windmill. The builder couldn't dig, so he built a large log box and filled it with boulders to form a base. I'll try to find a pic....
uglydukwling 2009-03-08, 04:54 PM Does anyone know the maximum height of tower that can be built without a light on top? If not, does anyone know who to ask at Transport Canada? I assume they're the agency with jurisdiction.
HDTV101 2009-03-08, 06:18 PM Does anyone know the maximum height of tower that can be built without a light on top? If not, does anyone know who to ask at Transport Canada? I assume they're the agency with jurisdiction.
FAA & Transport Canada have the same 200 foot rule ... you can read about it here: http://copyrightroyalties.com/TT0502.pdf
http://www.avaids.com/pcat-gifs/products-small/xenon1.jpg
A neighbor may have a tower for me...
it appears about 20 ft tall (about 10 ft over the edge of his roof) attached at the overhang only, and with antenna gear atop.
What need I inspect in terms of quality, lifespan, current condition etc.
Assuming it is in good condition, exactly what is involved in dismounting it.
thank you
Techluvr 2009-03-13, 02:47 PM I've read the FAQ, etc. I might have missed this particular situation, but what separation is required if two antennas ( CM4228HD ) are pointed exactly 180 degrees apart? Can they be mounted back-to-back or must one be below the other on the mast?
techluvr:
I was asking mclapp that this morning in the other thread (Mclapp's M-4, M-8) and then decided to remove the question because I assumed the others might think it was too shall we say "experimental"...I am curious though....maybe this should be moved to that thread...
recneps77 2009-03-13, 04:20 PM If you removed the reflectors (or built the "zigzags" of a GH) you should, in theory, get a figure 8 pattern.
By putting two antennas back to back, you're probably going to do more harm than good in terms of signal blocking (pure speculation, though. I'm no expert)
rlegault 2009-03-19, 01:10 PM I tried the attic thing and there's no room to aim, let alone rotate my antenna in the attic, so I would like to switch to wall mounting my antenna outside. So I am thinking two brackets of some kind to extend away from the wall past my eaves. Then a 10 foot mast (available at a local store). so my two questions.
1. should I make my own brackets or buy them. (perhaps threaded galvanized pipe or a fence post crimped and bent.)
2. should I cut my mast and install the rotator close to the brackets or close to the antenna. Or use a pipe in the bracket and mount the rotator on top of that with the 10 foot mast on top of that?
thanks for any help.
hutch67 2009-03-20, 03:58 AM does any one have plans for a diy tower i saw one and cant remember but it was build out of pvc pipe
hutch67 ps i have posted a few other question and seen no responce or advice any help on posting
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