: OTA Mounts, Towers, Rigging Hardware



Yaamon
2007-01-21, 05:40 PM
Kevin the swaying should not really affect the signal.

But by lowering the main pole it will make your install very stable. The 1.5" is definately more stable its just that at that height you are at now, it's not the pole length that's the problem but the tripod mounts that is secured to the roof will be under great stress when there is any ice build up and heavy winds during the winter.

Sorry to hear that reception did not increase greatly. I forgot what was your cable length now, as I dont see your preamp anymore?

If your length a good 70'+ I would use a preamp.

Kevin S
2007-01-21, 05:46 PM
Yes, good point on the tripod mounts - afterall it is only rivets holding it together. Like I say, I will probably drop it some once weather is better.

I returned the preamp because I couldn't use it on my 4228 without overload occurring and wiping out nearly all channels, even with 12dB of attentuation. I assume this is due to the high gain of the 4228 and my close proximity to Grand Island (11miles) which has some high power stations. I could use the preamp on the Wade 1483 4bay, but this must be due to the lower gain of the antenna itself. This antenna is no longer in the equation though so the preamp became useless to me.

My cable run is 75' even (premade). I can shorten it a good 15-20' probably (some excess coiled up), but my signals are all steady so I didn't want to cut/redo the cable (and buy the tool to do so).

Yaamon
2007-01-21, 06:04 PM
Kevin S if all your signal is now steady that is great news.

After you are sure of your final install I would still cut off the excess cable at 60' there is some signal loss but not a great amount.

At 75' I would guess there is a good 4.5db loss of signal.

If you can add a cheap 10db indoor booster in the garage so from antenna cable run is no more than 30' to the booster that will work well too.

You can always return it if it does not work but it should gain you stronger signal strength from the distant stations.

Kevin S
2007-01-21, 06:28 PM
Good idea with trying an indoor amp in the garage - a receptable for the garage door opener is nearby, so it would be easy enough to try. One reason I don't want to cut the excess (although I understand it can only help) is due to the possibility of re-arranging the rec-room now and then, but that is somewhat unlikely (if I get my way :) ).

Any recommendations on indoor amps? - I have tried a few different models before (phillips/RCA) - cheapies from Home Depot or Walmart - none have made any difference whatsoever in signal strength - this was with their placement being at the end of the 75' run though.

Yaamon
2007-01-21, 08:34 PM
Kevin if you place the cheapie 10db indoor booster in the garage where the cable run is short less than 40' it will work well.

You see using a indoor booster at the end of the cable run will not give good results as you already lost a fair bit of signal.

It can not create the signal that is already lost from the cable run.

That is why a preamp at the antenna boost a clean strong signal. Iam sure your cable run from the antenna to the garage is less than 35' so there is no real signal loss yet.

The 10db booster will be more than enough for you to run that cable 60' after the booster.

Kevin S
2007-01-21, 09:11 PM
That makes sense, as you say you can't boost something that is already lost - and yes, to go from the top of the mast to the garage attic would only be about 20' (and even shorter if I decide to shorten the mast as discussed earlier).

And when I say earlier that not much was gained - what I meant was no additional channels. The signal strength, while it was steady before with no problem, has improved - mostly due to being able to pinpoint now rather than find a happy medium.

electrocutioner
2007-01-23, 11:34 AM
KEVIN S. One reason I don't want to cut the excess (although I understand it can only help) is due to the possibility of re-arranging the rec-room now and then, but that is somewhat unlikely (if I get my way ).
I was also concerned about that as I was splicing in the connection to ground the coax cable,but then I figured chop away,I can always replace the bottom half of the cable if I need to!
I also used a clamp-less screw on type connector that really seems to grab the coax tightly. They are used by professionals in the production end of a/v setups, so I have no hesitation to use them.After using them and also splicing in a second feed to my bedroom, I have had no signal loss that I can detect.

Kevin S
2007-01-23, 07:11 PM
The weather has gotten a little ruff, so I haven't had a chance to shorten the mast and tonight will be a good test for it since it is pretty windy out. She is swaying about 6-8" at the top of the mast with the stronger gusts right now. The tripod mount is solid as a rock, so if she goes it will be the mast bending at the point where it enters the tripod. I did get to put a cross brace support under the one tripod leg that wasn't into a stud, so that will save the roof from any damage - it is just a matter of whether the mast will hold up until I can get back up there. The other option is adding a couple guy wires to it, but I'm not crazy about that idea aesthetically.

electrocutioner - I'll keep the screw on connectors in mind. I haven't done my own terminations before, but it doesn't look too complicated.

roger1818
2007-01-24, 10:33 AM
I am not a great fan of screw-on replacement connectors. They are fine for temporary connections but they can work loose over time and they don't provide an airtight seal, which can result in oxidation at the connection. You are much better off using either crimp (using a good quality crimp tool) or compression connectors (which require a proper compression tool).

Just to make sure I am being clear, I am talking about the method of attaching the connector to the cable. On the other end of the connector you definitely should use the screw type throughout your system and use a wrench to tighten them (being careful not to over tighten). The push on type of connector doesn't provide a good enough connection and should never be used.

stampeder
2007-01-24, 10:49 AM
The high winds ended up bending the mast and even one of the brackets secured to the chimney pulled out.I can confirm this problem with chimneys - the brick and mortar gets old and unstable with time, so popping some lag screws into them is not such a good idea. Also the chimneys you see here on the west coast usually have a horizontal cement cap piece to prevent the rain from going down the smoke stacks. I once made the mistake of standing on one to reach up to an antenna, and thankfully heard the cracking happening before it gave out and I would have fallen. Some quick repairs and it was good as new, but I sure had the butterflies in my gut that time...

A solution I've seen many times over the years is blue-steel banding around the chimney to hold the antenna pole into place. Its the kind of thing used to brace loading dock pallets. It is corrosion-resistant and can be cinched really tight, but you need the right tools.

Be careful up there, people. ;)

Kevin S
2007-01-24, 01:50 PM
What max height do you guys suggest for the main (1.5") mast? I am thinking of cutting out 4' which would result in a 6' main mast and 4' (1.25") mast above the rotator for the antenna. So that would be 10' overall with about 1-1.5' sunk into the tripod - still too tall?

As for being carefull - even I had to draw the line last night. I wanted to take it down just to prevent any problems, but there was 6" or so of snow on the roof - salt won't melt that much, and I don't have anything to pull it off either. As soon as we get a warm spell, I'll climb up there and cut the mast down though.

Yaamon
2007-01-24, 01:54 PM
Kevin S 5' on your main pole should be very stable.

I use 5' and I think come spring Iam going to take off another 2' as the bottom of the antenna would easily still clear the peak of my roof.

Kevin S
2007-01-24, 01:59 PM
Sounds good - I'll cut the main pole in half - that should still leave me plenty of height that my signals shouldn't change much if at all. That, and I will have a full spare 5' mast left :)

Kevin S
2007-01-28, 01:06 PM
Finally got everything squared away yesterday as the weather was a little more co-operative. Photos are in the Pimp My Gear thread.

england
2007-01-28, 01:32 PM
Nice job Kev. Have you got pics of the signals and quality on your TV, and also how many channels are you pulling in?

england
2007-01-28, 01:34 PM
Anyone know where one could pick up 50 ft towers for a decent price in southwestern ontario?

stampeder
2007-01-28, 01:48 PM
England, see posts #68 through #73:

http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=23984

Kevin S
2007-01-28, 03:10 PM
Nice job Kev. Have you got pics of the signals and quality on your TV, and also how many channels are you pulling in?
Added my results to the Niagara thread (getting 8 HD channels not including subchannels). I don't have pics of picture quality, and it wouldn't be worth while as my camera isn't the greatest (older 2MP model)

HDNEWB
2007-03-22, 08:07 AM
Thanks for the info, will go around foums for best antenna to get.
Attic installation is out of the question for me because my house is all aluminum sidind. will speek with my neighbor also who never had cable and always used ota with his small antenna outside.

sbobcat
2007-03-24, 05:34 PM
Hi all,
I decide to look into the option to install my 4221/4228 on the roof, I have a few questions before I jump. Hope all your pros can help me out here.

1) how you bring your equipment, Tripod and cm 4228/4221 to the roof.

2) my attic has the built-in pipe line to the basement, How may I bring the cable into the attic without cause the leaking.