I live in Surrey as well, called last Thursday, got the 27th as an install date, when did you book yours?
Busy out our way... :(

I ordered mine online on Dec. 6th. I had an initial date of the 16th, but that was pushed back to the 23rd.

I've been noticing a lot more dishes going up lately, with dual LNB's for HD. :)

I have read through almost this entire thread. I've been reading it for days :)

Wow lots of info here.

Currently I have a dish that was installedl probably back in the late 90's. It has two lines coming out of the dish and it's hooked to a switch (I think it might be the same as an SW44 switch? but not certain) It's called an Omega Multi receiver switch. We have 2 3100 receivers, and one older receiver (don't remember the number on that one) hooked up to this switch. There is also another line that is run to our basement that we haven't used as yet but could be run off this switch as well.

I just bought a 9200 for our new HDTV which will be in the livingroom replacing one of the 3100 and we plan to use the dual feature for the tv in the bedroom replacing the other 3100. We will move one of the 3100 down to the basement and use one of the 3100 to replace the older receiver.

We already have a dish and do sometimes have problems in the winter with losing our channels. Would it be a good idea just to keep things the way they are with the dish we have and then just set up the new dish to feed the two lines needed for the 9200? If we did this would we then be able to add more receivers in future if we wanted because we would have the two dishes with extra outlets on the SW44's?

The other day, I had a 9200 installed. My TV is a Sharp Aquos LCD26DA5U. I use an HDMI connection.

I've noticed that there is a relatively loud "popping" or "crackling" sound whenever I change channels; sometimes even when I don't change the channel. I have friends with the Roger's dual tuner HDTV PVR and they indicated to me that they experienced similar sounds when they first installed their receivers but it "went away" over time. I haven't been able to find any posts that identify this problem with ExpressVu receivers.

Any thoughts on the cause and/or solution to this problem would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

I have read this thread from front to back and have not seen this question posed and applogize if it was missed.

Yesterday I installed a new 9200 in place of my old 6000 and have a question re hooking up my existing 5100.
I have 2 lines coming into the house from the SW44 outside that I used for the 9200. Can I use the SW21 splitter that Bell had installed at the dish to split the one line and go to my 5100? I realize that the SW21 only has one outlet to the receiver with 2 coming from the dish, but can I reverse the switch so that I may split the line going to the 2 receivers using this method.
If not, what is the easiest way without running a complete new line from the SW44?
Thanks in advance.

I had my system upgraded to be compatible with HD and new program offering a while back and Bell used SW21 Switches to complete the task. Therefore, four wires from the sat. to two little boxes, then two wires into the house. It is NOT possible for me to bring in another wire into the house since we just had our basement finished (I really don't want to put any holes in the walls and then have a random wire hanging down).

Is there any way for me to use the Separator to split the one cable coming into my house to the basement and take advantage of the dual tuners for the receiver?

Thank you.

Also, I am having a problem with the screen going black after a few seconds of watching a channel. Is this issue related to me only having one input?

Is there any way for me to use the Separator to split the one cable coming into my house to the basement and take advantage of the dual tuners for the receiver?


I would say not, as each port on the SW44 is controlled by the receiver. I think the switch would get confused.

I would say not, as each port on the SW44 is controlled by the receiver. I think the switch would get confused.

Bell didnt install the SW44, they used SW21 Switches

Bell didnt install the SW44, they used SW21 Switches

I think the same applies - a switch is a switch.

I can't seem to find this info in this or any of the other 9220 threads. I'm sure I've missed it somewhere but does anyone know how far apart the two TV's can be to us the the 2-room/one 9220 option?

I understand that one of the TVs if fed from the HDMI in HD and the other is fed from the component in SD but what is the cable length limit for either of these two formats? All the store cables seem to only be a few feet in length but I have TVs on different floors so this won't work. It appears I will need a PVR and a separate receiver to run two TVs (HD receiver if I want HD on the second TV).

Sorry if this isn't an installation issue but Bell's website says they will backfeed the second TV (for a fee) so I assume it is.

Thanks.

TV2 on the 9200 is actually a composite video output, not component. I'm running three RG6 cables from the basement (where my HD setup is) to a 3 plug RCA wall plate I've installed on the second floor. These carry the composite video as well as the two stereo audio channels from the TV2 outputs.

The reason I ran all RG6 is the 9200 has two TV1 HD outputs - the HDMI (digital) and component (analog). Should I replace the SD TV on the second floor with an HD unit, I'll use the component output over the same runs to provide the second HD video source. (In which case I will need additional cable runs for audio).

The RG6 cabling is approximately 25 feet in length, and the video quality is excellent - much better in a direct comparison with the RF coax video from the same receiver. I've heard of people using twice that length on RG6 coax for both component and composite, with good results.

Thanks, WestCDA. If you end up using it the way you're planning after upgrading the second TV to HD, you will only be able to watch one at a time, right? Or watch the same channel on both TVs? I guess you could arrange for even more cabling and switch between TV1 and TV2 for the second TV, depending on use of the first TV (i.e. whether it was being used or not).

I will likely end up with two boxes since both TVs are HD and there is some likelihood of wanting to watch both at the same time.

I'm thoroughly confused after reading everything. I don't even know what I have anymore.

SO, I broke down and called expressvu to get professional installation. Hopefully everything will be working by the time they leave...

Neilcamp, both the HDMI and component outputs on TV1 are active at the same time. They do, however, output the same tuner or recorded source - so each always displays the same image.

I use the basement projection HD system for special events. As I have it hooked up now (SD for TV2 up, and HD for TV1 down), I could split the two tuners and view a different program on each - but I have them set up for 'shared' viewing so I'm looking at a common source.

TV1 ouputs are HD and TV2 outputs are SD - on TV2 you can only have RF (coax) or composite video. If you want to have HD on two TV's you can do it by running both the TV1 HDMI and component, but only to view the same on both.

I plan to connect my BEV system up as per this wiring diagram using the components supplied with the 9220 (LNB's, SW44 multiswitch (dish branded) and 20 "dish. The SW44A is a microyal unit I purchased separately. I need five working outputs, 2x9200 and 3x4100.

http://netman.mcmaster.ca/SW44.bmp

Questions:


Will this work (and do you have your own system connected like this)?
Do I need to attach the 75 ohm terminators to all unused ports on both the SW44 and SW44A including the receiver port on the power injector (assuming I don't use it)? Only the SW44A came with terminators.
Do the multiswitches get hot? I notice the SW44 has fins. I plan to mount it to a peice of wood.
I've used short (6") coax connectors between the SW44A and SW44. Does the length matter?

I have an installer coming Thursday to align the dish but the rest is up to me so I really need to know this configuration will work! Any advice appreciated.

-Mike

I use a single SW44, but wiring diagrams for the SW44A are exactly as you have shown - connect the LNBs to the SW44A and pass the four SW44A satellite out ports to the SW44 satellite in ports.

Though the loss might be minimal, it's good practice to terminate any unused outputs to prevent signal loss or degradation in the distribution system. It also protects the port from moisture, dust, etc.

The SW44 gets a little warm, but not hot. I mounted mine on wood near where I brought the sat feeds into the basement. The short COAX segments will be fine, but even with these short lengths it's a good idea to use RG6 (not RG59) upstream of the receiver.

I would say not, as each port on the SW44 is controlled by the receiver. I think the switch would get confused.

Ok, back to my original question. Will the switch get confused if used as a splitter as one feed to the 9200 and branching to my 5100??

Will the switch get confused if used as a splitter as one feed to the 9200 and branching to my 5100??

With the equipment you described in your previous post, you need to run another line from your external SW44 switch into the house, to provide the third feed to your 5100. The other alternative is replacing the LNB's and switch with DishPRO LNB's to combine everything onto two lines outside, then split it back out when inside.

I would consider running all four lines directly from your existing LNB's into your house, and moving the SW44 inside. The cost is going to be substantially less than replacing equipment.

You can then run your additional cable for the 5100 and the have the fourth output readily available (on the inside) should you need it in the future.

Thanks WestCDA

I really didn't want to run a new line from the SW44 dedicated to the 5100 only, but if thats what I have to do then so be it.
What is preffered, RG6 or 59 and can I use a connector if I can only find 50 foot lengths? am going to need at least 100'.
millie

For a new run, use RG6 - especially if you are keeping the switch outside and running 100 feet. RG6 is better shielded and uses larger wire. You want the strongest signal possible to your receiver.

You need to keep the connectors to the absolute minimum, as every connector has a loss associated with it. Buy whatever length of RG6 you need in bulk, and then crimp the new connectors on it outside and inside. Remember that you need a ground for each cable coming inside if you don't have a ground attached to your switch.

If you're doing the installation yourself and don't have the crimping tools, you can buy 25', 50' and 100' of RG6 already terminated at most places that carry satellite cable.