My latest attempt at a Gapless DBGH10 with NAROD's. See my notes. I desperately need more height for 7.1, 7.2. I'm sold on these antenna's though.

http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/picture.php?albumid=176&pictureid=1677

This is my third DMX 68' project this year (two installations, one non-destructive tear down).

As always, digging the hole is first. In the case of a DMX 68', its 4' deep and 46" square. I recommend using a tarp below the excavated dirt, as this makes the cleanup and restoration process much smoother.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/7364/f1000001.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/i/f1000001.jpg/)

The excavation is "belled" out, per the instructions from Delhi. The cables in this image are coax cable TV and telephone. The excavation was carefully done by hand, as these cables were found on the pre-digging locate.

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/7564/f1000003.jpg (http://img42.imageshack.us/i/f1000003.jpg/)

As the ground rod would be situated below the frost line, I've used a 4' rod. The rod is pounded into the excavation (once completed).

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/160/f1000008m.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/i/f1000008m.jpg/)

The base stubs or pegs are bolted to the base section (as seen painted black). The concrete lugs--though not depicted as such here--were later staggered. They are 2" x 1/2" grade 5 bolts and nuts are available at TSC or most hardware stores.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/6681/f1000006.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/i/f1000006.jpg/)

The base section, with attached stubs, is easily lowered into the excavation by one person. I've used cinder blocks (previously levelled) to rest the section upon. The block in the centre is used for footing (to prevent mud caking onto my boots)--it was later removed.

Later, to plumb the section, I used wooden shims under the feet of the section.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/4771/f1000013k.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/i/f1000013k.jpg/)

The ground rod is attached to the section within the excavation. It is best to install the rod as far from a home or building as possible.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/6496/f1000010.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/i/f1000010.jpg/)

The base section, as seen installed within the excavation.

As the tower tapers throughout it's entire length towards the top, you must use a level with a 1/4" rod attached to the side, at 22" from the bottom to determine the level of the structure.

Once the base section is level, you can commence concrete work.

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/3476/f1000015.jpg (http://img32.imageshack.us/i/f1000015.jpg/)

For this install, we had two skids of 30kg mixed concrete bags delivered (63 bags per skid x $3.99 per bag). The mixing (using a mixer) and installation took approximately 7 hours.

The bags left after the work:

(pic deleted)

The concete work is complete. Note the gap between the concrete surface, and the surrounding area. The area is to be filled in with soil to level the surface. This will ensure that the moisture within the concrete is contained--to promote curing. And it will reduce the corrosive properties of the concrete on the above-ground tower parts.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/6388/f1000019.jpg (http://img9.imageshack.us/i/f1000019.jpg/)

Once the concrete is cured, the tower can be installed.

In this photo, section two is installed on the base section.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8435/f1000020a.jpg (http://img9.imageshack.us/i/f1000020a.jpg/)

Additional sections awaiting installation.

http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/2884/f1000005.jpg (http://img682.imageshack.us/i/f1000005.jpg/)

This photo depicts the top section of the tower. Note that the Ham 5 rotor and cable is only installed for staging purposes. The rotor is far too heavy to be lifted along with the section into place. It is recommended that the rotor be installed after the top section is bolted into place on the tower.

Note the DMX thrust bearing atop the upper most plate on the section.

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/1295/f1000014h.jpg (http://img26.imageshack.us/i/f1000014h.jpg/)

Close up of rotor.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/2513/f1000004n.jpg (http://img9.imageshack.us/i/f1000004n.jpg/)

Pics of the finished project coming soon!

Terrific, comprehensive attention to detail in your work, Jase88!

One note about the concrete - what month did you do that job in? Folks need to keep in mind that as the cooler temperatures of autumn come in, the concrete will stay "green" longer, meaning that it will take noticeably longer to cure and solidify. Also wIth those underground cables already there (Post #483) too bad you couldn't use a post-hole digger, eh?

This is a textbook example of how to install a self-supporting DMX tower, and its a pleasure to view your great work. :)

Yes. Great job Jase88!

I'm jealous. Still haven't got the 40' Delhi out of my friend's granny's house yet.

One day....
:(

That's some fine work. Don't forget to call on your Kitchener friends if you need a hand. ;)

Jase88,

Excellent, well done, good for you!:p

Also interesting, would be photos (if someone can) of you mounting the gear...

thanks

BTW, I noticed that water bottle, curious, how many times you had to fill that :eek:

Thanks for the compliments!

The job was actually completed by mid-October (I'm slow to remove pics off the camera!). We had a couple frosty nights at that point, but the concrete appeared to take well.

Stampeder: Parts of the excavation work were done with a post digger. Though I preferred the shovel. The dirt came out nicely in "chunks" from the high clay content.

Balm: I'm not sure if I have pics of the work actually in progress--I will check and get back to you (my helper would wander off during the "boring parts" of the work and neglect to take pics). ;) Each section was raised by rope, balanced above my head, then slid into place and bolted. Next year, if I work on many more of these, I will definitely create a gin pole. The water bottle definitely got filled many times--especially during the warmer days!

Nice tower Jase ! Wow 68 feet? Can't wait to see the finished photos :D

I have a VHF/UHF combo antenna on a 35 ft mast but I don't know the brand. It came with the house when I bought it several years ago. There was a pre-amp at the antenna with no numbers or brand name and I added a channel Master power supply (found at the dump) to get it working! Antenna rotor is there but non-operational. Here are a couple pics of my antenna:

http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx122/Gerrit77_photo/IMG00022.jpg

http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx122/Gerrit77_photo/IMG00023.jpg