Pincushion can be adjusted by performing a manual convergence on the green lines first, using an overlay as a guide or perhaps using string taped to the TV to give you a straight line. Then match the red and blue to the green line.

hmm, just realized you need the multi-point convergence, which you don't seem to have. The 9 point may be the best you can do on your particular TV, sorry.

Thank you for the quick response - as i do not have magic focus on the hitachi 43fdx10b i do have only the 9 point convergence unless i go into the service mode which i would prefer to avoid - i need to move the green up on the top and down on the bottom to get rid of the pincushion and then i can move the red and blue to match - does anyone know how i can get to the green? there must be a bottom or bottom combination on the remote? I tried the directions from kevinw and sillygoose but they don't work for me.

thank you

Well, I am going to start out by saying that I do not have a Hitachi, but instead a JVC av-56wp74. Although it is not the same, we seem to have the same problem. I can't seem to find any info on my model specifically, but can on your model. Both models seem to share the same ICs. I have gathered enough info on this great thread/forum to do the job myself, since I am familiar with a solder iron, it shouldn't be a problem. Though I do have one simple question, not simple enough for me to answer.

How do you know if you have bad resistors? I don't see any discolored ones on my board. I would hate to replace the ICs, only to blow them up when powering it up again.

Also, where are you getting the ICs from? I can only seem to find them at www.partstore.com . And they are like 84bucks a piece.

I just bought a PDF service manual for my model, that should help out greatly. I bought it from this ebay store ~ http://stores.*********/Manual-Universe ~ for $7.50. They have manuals for over 50,000 makes.

Thank god for this forum, I would hate to pay 400bucks for something that I know that I could do for much cheaper.... Specially this time of year!

1. See post one of this thread. There are links to places that sell "kits" for $30. The ICs should not cost $84.

2. One way to test the resistors is by cutting one end from the board and using an ohmmeter to check the resistance. If it's fine, resolder, if not, replace. If you don't cut, then the resistance reading may not be correct.

I was thinking that was awfully high priced. I wonder if they sell two at a time. I say this only because I can buy the whole convergence board with everything but the module for $183. Doesn't make since-- 2 ICs @ 87.51 x 2= 175.02, or the whole damn board for 183.

I wonder if I should even mess with repairing the board, or just replace the whole thing. I guess I will make my assessment when I pull the board out and look at it.

I will check out your link to see how much the ICs are, maybe their boards are cheaper to, if they have them...

Thanks for your help 57!

Regarding removing circuit board from 43FDX01B:

I just got my TV working again this past weekend, and I wanted to thank everyone on the forum for the advice and information, and wanted to post some notes on my expierience, for those who might come after me... (since I am an utter newbie at all things involving a soldering iron)

So, those of you born with a multimeter in hand, I beg a moment of patience and understanding .. :p Here we go:

**********************************************

The convergence chips are two large black chips, attached to a large aluminum heat sink on the right front of the circuit board (as you are looking at it from the back of the TV). They are the STK chips that you see referenced in all the posts. They are the ones that need to be removed and replaced. Also look for any burned resistors.. I didn't have any, but they say it is fairly common.

To be honest, taking out the board is not easy. There are 14 or 15 wires/connectors to replace and I think 8 or 9 screws to be removed.

Things that I would have like to have known before I started:

#1 Regarding the large red leads on the transformer (the large black blocky thing in the middle of the board)... in order to remove them, you need to push them down, and rotate them a quarter turn to allow them to be removed vertically... It's hard to describe, but once you get one of them off, you'll see what I mean. (the thin red wire you can just remove vertically, it's a normal connector).

#2 You'll need a long thin Phillips screwdriver, and one short stubby one... There are screws that require each kind... the screws in the middle of the board require the short stubby one.

#3 There are plastic latches along the left and right sides of the board that hold the circuit board down... you'll need to push the catches outward off the board to allow removal

#4 The 3 (or is it 4?) screws around the transformer need to be removed as well as the screws that hold down the board... the transformer is soldered to the board, but it is also screwed down to the chassis. Don't know why.

#5 There are 3 capacitors soldered onto the bottom of the board on mine. I didn't know they were there, and bent one of them kinda out of shape when I was removing the board... Be careful on that one... Just be aware that they are there, and try not to drag the bottom of the board as you are removing it from the chassis.

Putting that board back in required a little messing around to get it right. There are plastic pins that stick up from the chassis that go into holes in the board right around the transformer, and for some reason they didn't want to line up correctly for me... I had to take the board out and guide it back in again, then they worked...

I had a buddy do the actual soldering, so I cant be of much help there. He did notice that 2 of the contacts on the board where the Convergence Chips get soldered on were bad, and so he had to jumper the connection from the lead on the chip to the appropriate place on the circuit board, just following the circuit paths.

That's about all I can tell you... I had read that you needed to realign the colors after the job, and needed some sort of template or strings to get them perfectly vertical and horizontal... but mine came out perfect... didn't have to do a thing. Don't know if that's beginners luck, or the way its supposed to be...

Obviously you should unplug it for several days ( probably don't need that long, but just to be safe) before you start the process... make a good map, label the connectors, and make sure you note how they are oriented.. (i.e. Blue wire is at top, or brown is on the left), there were a couple of connectors that it was possible to put on backwards... I assume bad things would happen if you did that.

So, it's a question of how brave you want to be... consensus was about $300 or $400 for a repair person to do it... I decided to try it because the TV was given to me already not working , and so I didn't have anything invested.

**********************************************

Just some tips from a guy who had no idea what he was getting into, but with a little skill, and a LOT of luck, got himself a nice working TV.

Thanks,
Dave

Hello All,

I too have a 43FDX01B with no magic focus. dmoreno, did you have to mess with the little green "service mode" button on the corner of the "deflection" board? Should I upgrade my STK392-110 to STK392-150's? If so, do I need to change any of the other resistors on the board to accomodate the new ICs?

For those of you who want to buy the parts cheap I found this: http://www.mainelectronics.com/ place in my home town in Vancouver that does on line orders and stocks the amplifiers, the STK392-110 are $8.95 each, but their minimum shipping order is $30 so you may want to order extras, or some resistors just in case.

I am also thinking of mod-ing the back of my tv to accomodate a little fan that either gets switched on and off depending on the heat output, or just stays on when the tv is switched on if I can find a quiet enough fan. I might even get freaky and put in a liquid cooling system on the IC's, like one used for a computer (PC) CPU, if I can find a cheap enough one. If I do either of these I will be sure to post the "HowTo" here in this forum.

For those of you with the 43FDX01B,and possibly others, the service manual is located here, courtesy of dmoreno in a private email to me, thanks d ;) http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/file/Video/Products/ or just google for 43FDX01B.pdf or [your model here].pdf which is what I did.

Also in addition to dmoreno's post above, I found it really helps to remove the 2 black screws holding down the plactic frame that the board is mounted to and pull the whole darned thing out (after disconnecting all the leads), in order to be able to successfully get to the STK392-110's. I was struggling with pulling the board for almost 1.5 hours and almost busted it or some components on it before I figured this method out.

Thanks to all the people in this forum for their info because it made a $600 headache (which is what my local authorized Hitachi Repair Depot quoted) into a $20 one.

Okay, Not only did I not liquid cool my stk392-150's (or even get to attach a small fan for that matter), It looks like I might have completely baked my TV. I had the STK392-150's professionally mounted to the board (my friend is awesome with an iron and multimeter), I did a very comprehensive visual on all the resistors and other circuits and solder on the board, re-installed it into the tv, carefull to make sure I did all the right connections ( I had made a map and marked all the cables I had disconnected) and turned it on. At first it came up with the exact same problem (ghosting and red convergence was way out of wack) then I turned it off, rechecked all the connections, turned it back on, then all it would do is make the "sweeping" or "tsst, tsst, tsst" sound while the LED's on the deflection board dimmed to the rythm, as previously mentioned by "halman##" in this post. Does anybody know what this means? Someone please help. At this point I am willing to try anything. I am going to have to mess with this thing until it is working, or until I get tired of messing with it, have saved enough money for an LCD TV, at which point I will take this $4000 hunk of crap and drop it off on the door step of the Hitachi offices in my city and let them deal with putting their trash in the garbage. Unless of course anybody is interested in a little something called "class action lawsuit" in which case I would be willing to throw in a few hundred dollars towards a class action lawyer. Thoughts?

...class action lawyer. Thoughts?
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?p=460593#post460593

Got it, hows about some hints regarding the "Tsst Tsst" sound that is now eminating from the back of my TV? Anyone, anyone?

well to start off the tv was jumping ,shaking,jittering, when someone walked on the floor , i took it in to repair, he soder the board and fixed the problem . when we got it home the wife said that the pitchure looks different . i told her that mabe it need to be majic focus . so i did it and soon after that i had this yellow blur come up from the bottom of the screen and slow abit down from the top , dang i though some else went . wow and i cant afford to take this back for more repairs . so i open it up at the front and started taping and pushing things around and poof it went away and then poof it came back . like usaly you turn the tv off for a min and it goes back to normal . now looking at the front of the tv i was poking some risisters i see now i was poking at the red stk's just in front the big risistor says 220 ohms 5% triangle 2w and then just behind that one i poked the small risister that is a light blue colour with bands of green blue gold gold , now that one i poked hmm a bit hard , pushed over and i think the wire part touched the next risistor wire part i looked at the tv and now i see red out line of what ever is on the tv right beside it like a image , what did i blow ? iam learning fast about parts inside of a tv i should of not of pushed on them and bin more carefull iam a mech buy trade and i have a brother that is an electrician . the large red leads on the transformer, how do i discharge them . the tv is a Hitachi Projection 46UX24B my email is rchamberlain@cogeco.ca

I have been reading through these forums for I have this problem. Decided to pull the whole board out to find these chips. I kept looking for a seperate board but didn't see one. I have a 60SX12b model. I ordered a service manual online but it doesn't completely look like mine. I emailed them back and they said it was the manual for my tv. The instructions for the remote to set convergence doesn't look like mine. Everybody keeps talking about 3 STK chips but I found 3 on mine and they are STK4274. Has anybody else ran into this and is there any place to get the service manual that matches my tv? I appreciate any help.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

well to start off the tv was jumping ,shaking,jittering, when someone walked on the floor , i took it in to repair, he soder the board and fixed the problem . when we got it home the wife said that the pitchure looks different . i told her that mabe it need to be majic focus . so i did it and soon after that i had this yellow blur come up from the bottom of the screen and slow abit down from the top , dang i though some else went . wow and i cant afford to take this back for more repairs . so i open it up at the front and started taping and pushing things around and poof it went away and then poof it came back . like usaly you turn the tv off for a min and it goes back to normal . now looking at the front of the tv i was poking some risisters i see now i was poking at the red stk's just in front the big risistor says 220 ohms 5% triangle 2w and then just behind that one i poked the small risister that is a light blue colour with bands of green blue gold gold , now that one i poked hmm a bit hard , pushed over and i think the wire part touched the next risistor wire part i looked at the tv and now i see red out line of what ever is on the tv right beside it like a image , what did i blow ? iam learning fast about parts inside of a tv i should of not of pushed on them and bin more carefull iam a mech buy trade and i have a brother that is an electrician . the large red leads on the transformer, how do i discharge them . the tv is a Hitachi Projection 46UX24B my email is rchamberlain2@cogeco.ca
should i change all three stk's ? and all the ristors ?

43FDX01B Convergence issues. Can't get the red to move at all. Green and blue adjust fine. What does the error message "CONNECT1 ! No. 01234567 OVER FLOW ! No. 5" mean?

thank you very much for your forum help . what happend was the main board had a dry solder connection , and the ristors all cheched out great . when i tapped the ristor it short against the ristor in front of it and knocking out the stk4274 ( red ) we pluged in the tv and did a kajci focus and it all lined up . wow back to normal than you for the forum help and also for keeping the history of all the fourm posts
thanks agin

thankyou to all. I just fixed a 43f300 that was given to me do to this forum thanks, I do have 1 question, is it possible to wire in a small 110 fan like a computer fan above the IC amps to keep them cooler? so each time the tv is turned on the fan would come on? Ive searched and have not found anthing yet. thanks.

Suggestions:

1. Leave the fan on 24/7?

2. Plug the fan into a switched outlet on a STB or AV Receiver nearby that you turn on at the same time as the TV?

Phew,

Fixed it. Turns out the "Tsst Tsst" sound and dimming LEDs on the Deflection board is another symptom of the convergence amps being blown on my 43FDX01B. Here are the lessons I learned:

Change ALL the following resistors:

- RK42 (2.2 OHMS, 1W) [yes, the service manual is right. Mine looked different too but the 2.2 OHM works fine. For other models (other than 53FDX01B) it is a differnt value so be careful]

- RK46 (1.5 OHMS, 1W)
- RK50 (2.2 OHMS, 1W)
- RK54 (1.5 OHMS, 1W)
- RK58 (3.3 OHMS, 1W)
- RK62 (1.8 OHMS, 1W)

Don't avoid it like I did and end up buy the stk392-150's twice (like I did..)!!!

- stk392-150's are a direct and recommended drop in replacement. You don't need to change any of the resistor values to accomodate the change, at least I didn't and my set looks fine.

To enter the DCAM mode, without having to remove the grill on the TV, you can [with the TV's power turned 'On'] push and hold the [front panel] convergence button (or maybe 'Magic Focus' for those models that have it) and hit the 'Input' button on the remote. Then follow the steps in the very first post of this topic.

Take it easy and have a nice day.

You don't need to remove the grill to get into DCAM - see the Sticky at the top of the Hitachi forum on DCAM Convergence. You only need to remove the grill if you're in static mode (9 points) to get to the little blue button.

Huge THANKS to '57' and others that helped save our 6 year old 53" Hitachi.

Here's our experience-- TV had the ugly offset red halo up to the top of the screen. Gave my 17yr old son the assignment of seeing what he could dig up on the web-- he found this forum and we thought it would be a fun project (neither of us know anything about soldering circuit boards).

We ordered the STK150s after advice from a couple forums, around $15 each from MCM electronics. A friend at work helped with the de-soldering and re-mounting the amps. We had to remove the aluminum heat sink to get the amps out of the board because they were pretty well stuck to the heat sink from the thermal paste (don't know how in the world this could be done any other way). Through the process I learned what a solder sucker and solder wick are used for.

I removed the board from the TV to make it easier to work on. This wasn't especially hard, just took a while to get past all the dastardly plastic clips holding the board at the edges. We re-installed the board, turned it on and holding our breath watched it come to life with picture intact!! Did a magic focus and that was it.

Thanks again for your great help!!

Lindy4343 in Phoenix