: Hitachi & Other Manufacturers Convergence Problems (STK392-110 ICs) Read Post 1
2010-08-09, 07:40 AM
Just replace the burnt one--find out its value by comparing its color and size to one of the other 5 good resistors. There is no need to replace all 6 resistors. If you can't figure out what the value of RK54 is by the other resistors, just follow what the service manual says.
2010-08-30, 10:13 PM
Just replaced the two IC but picture looks the same. While doing the repair, I check the value of the resistors and I am not sure if the value is correct. From the service manual for 50H82 (big brother of 42H83) that the value should be 1.8 ohm 1w fusible but the value I got using a DMM is around 26 to 29 ohm. I am not sure if it should be replace.
Thanks for the advise ...
2010-11-16, 12:39 AM
I'm almost 67% sure I have to replace my convergence ICs, the reason I'm not 100% sure is because none of the convergence resistors are bad. Even though both red and blue are a whole lot screwier and unable to get even close to adjusted good enough, is it possible the problem could be something other than the convergence ICs?
Your post was moved to this existing thread on the topic. Please read post 1 and the links there thoroughly and provide additional information if you still have questions. Note that checking the resistors while on the board is next to useless and that replacing the resistors while you have the board out to replace the IC(s) is recommended.
2010-11-16, 01:03 AM
Well I'm going to go ahead and just trust that my digital multimeter worked well enough. I'll replace the resistors later, they're not visually burned, they aren't open, and they measured within the 5% tolerance of 2.2 ohms inboard. I understand what you're saying about measuring them inboard, but I trust they are good.
Now that I've been lumped into a 700+ who knows how many years old post, which I thought I was able to avoid stating what I had, could you answer my question perhaps?
You asked whether your problem could be something other than the ICs and the answer to that is yes, as outlined in post 1 which has been updated as knowledge has been gained, however, it's likely that the ICs (and the resistors) need replacing. Suggest again that you read post 1 carefully and thoroughly.
have a Hitachi 53UDX10B. Let me start by saying I am a mechanical engineer, but have years of experience as engineering manager in the PCB assembly industry.
I have a few ongoing issues. I will describe my issues and what I’ve done to remedy them. If you are responding to this post, please indicate the item #.
To begin, my TV picture was deteriorating. Dull picture, too much red, white bleeding or halos, white would have green tint.
1. Action: Took back cover/mirror off of TV. Lenses very dusty. Mirror hazy. Cleaned both. Picture improved, but still had color issues. Note: I noticed a dull spot on the red lens. I may have done this cleaning – although – all did was wipe with a soft cloth. Result: Much clearer picture. Still had color issues. 18” diameter yellow spot in top, right center of screen. This may have been there before, but not as visible.
Question: Is the yellow (very faint) spot a lens issue or a light engine issue (I don’t know what a light engine is but I’ve seen this term used ).
2. Action: looked up symptoms on line. Began investigating convergence issues. Purchased convergence kit from web site. Site also recommended purchasing and replacing CRT coolant – so I bought it.
Action: Replaced STK392-150’s – which were on my PCB, with STK392-110’s. Note: The kit came with resistors, but did not state that they had to be replaced. It said to check current resistors and replace bad ones only. So now I am operating with STK392-110’s – with resistors for the 150’s. Result: No real improvement to picture – but it didn’t get worse either. Question: Do I need to replace resistors or will operate OK?
Action: Replaced CRT coolant in each tube. Result: HUGE improvement! Note: My CRT’s have some type of primer bulb (rubber boot). On the green one, I removed the primer cover and took the bulb (rubber boot) out, and thoroughly cleaned. When I put it back together, I can not get it to stop leaking. Luckily it’s at the top, so at worst, the coolant will only drain from the top primer reservoir. Question: It looked like the other primer covers were staked in place – but the green one was not – it just popped right off. Anyone know what is right? Should it be staked. What should I do?
3. Problem: I still have color issues. Too red, too dark, and faint yellow spot on screen. Menu picture adjustments from remote do not resolve. Action: Read this post and did DCAM last night. Result: No real improvement. Note: While doing DCAM, I noticed a few things: a. The grid looks very clear on green. The top right corner is out – skewed about 1”. Far right vertical line goes off screen (not visible) about half way up the screen and remains out the rest of the way up. On my second DCAM, I adjusted the position of this line so that it matched the left side, then adjusted red, and blue to match. Didn’t really help much. Did this without a template. Important: I noticed that the grid appears pretty clean in the center of the screen, but the further you get from the center, the worse it looks. Lines blur quite a bit – especially in the corners. Makes adjusting corners almost impossible. Question: Why is my grid blurry on the corners? Focus issue?
4. Current Status: Still have color issues – too red, too dark, yellow spot, focus issues in corners. The picture looks really good on some channels, but others – the reds look funny almost florescent in some cases – noticed green looking the same way. Focus – the further you get from the center – the more things are out of focus. Very noticeable on cable menu – words are blurry. In 13:9 mode – at border of image on bottom and top I can see other colors some times. Note: during magic focus, green has some halo’s. Red and blue look crisp.
5. Question Summary:
a. Is the yellow (very faint) spot a lens issue or a light engine issue (I don’t know what a light engine is but I’ve seen this term used).
b. Do I need to replace resistors on convergence board or will it operate OK? Magic focus seems to work fine. Not sure I have a convergence issue.
c. On CRT’s – replacing coolant - It looked like the other primer covers were staked in place – but the green one was not – it just popped right off. Anyone know what is right? Should it be staked. What should I do?
d. In DCAM why is my grid blurry on the corners and clear in the center? Focus issue?
e. Why is my picture blurry in the corners?
f. Would adjusting the green grid with a template be helpful? If so – where do I get a template? Can I make one? I’m handy.
g. Should I adjust the trim pots under the front panel? I need some guidance in doing so.
h. Why do my colors look this way?
i. Why is it tv dark? When I turn the brightness up – it just washes colors out. Doesn’t look good.
I feel like my next step is adjusting the trim pots under the front panel. However, I’ve read posts describing adjustments on the “flyback” and light engine issues. What do I do?
a. CRTs are CRTs, they are not light engines. Light engines were used on LCD, DLP or LCoS RPTVs.
b. Read post one of this thread thoroughly. The answers to all the convergence questions are there.
c. Sorry, can't help.
d. Could be focus or convergence.
e. See d.
f. You can purchase a template, make one, or use strings taped to the TV at the appropriate points. The service manual has these points in them. You can also simply put the strings in the appropriate positions by measuring the current lines' positions and putting the strings equally spaced on the TV. The outside lines are not usually the same distance from the edge of the TV as they are from the nearest line.
g. Do not touch the colour trimpots. They are very sensitive and a non-professional will rarely get the correct colour back again. These can be adjusted as a last resort - lack of colour, etc, but they are extremely sensitive! The focus trimpots are easy to adjust but the blue rarely gets perfect. Using a grid or white writing on the screen is good for adjusting the focus.
h. Old TV.
i. Try contrast. See the following FAQ on proper optimization:
I have a Hitachi 51swx20b that the horizontal convergence lines on the Red are good in the middle of the screen but on the top especially there is a S-Curve and alittle bit in the bottom the curve is strongest on the left side I have done all the manual and service level convergence I can to no avail the vertical lines are fine and all the other colors are fine. Does this sound like a IC problem? If you need more detals reply and Ill follow up.
If I go into the info for the ROM these values come up (Pressing pip on then menu)
If I do the same but press (PIP ON then SWAP) I get these values
I dont know if these will help as I have no idea how to read these values but do the vertical values with all the "x"'s mean something is wrong?
The "S" curve usually happens while doing a DCAM convergence in the "fine" mode. You need to revert to the medium or course mode as outlined in the DCAM instructions link in post 1. You first converge/straighten the lines in course mode, then in medium, then in fine. I've had this S-curve happen many times when trying to converge only in the fine mode thinking I could get away with it.
It's also possible that it's an IC-type issue, but try a DCAM properly first - if the lines/colours don't move properly in DCAM, then it's likely the IC issue.
Thanks, Did a DCAM in medium and course with no success. Pretty sure its an IC issue. I think while I'm in there I might as well replace the resistors. I have looked for the parts on and can find the OEM ICs are they worth the price or are the knockoffs ok to use?
Most people have had success with the various kit suppliers listed in post 1 since they seem to use OEM/Sanyo. There are some suppliers where the ICs are only $6 and they are not recommended. Here's a quote from someone in the US who seems to know about this stuff:
Many techs have learned that using ICs that don't come through vendors who verify the sourcing as original first quality Sanyo parts distribution often results in more problems. When you see these chips this cheap they are almost always inferior quality copies.
Use B&D, Acme, Tritronics (but not the TT- numbered parts), Andrews, or other reputable distributors.
2010-11-25, 11:02 PM
Thanks for this awesome thread. I've just finished reading it and I'm going through it again to make sure I have all the information I need.
I found references to part X480301 on another site which is the convergence output repair kit for a number of models on DP-05, DP-05F, DP-06, one of which is the 53FXD01B.
I had a hard time finding X480301, but I was able to find the individual components.
However, when I was putting together my order, I noticed a difference for RK62 between the repair kit and the information from post 220, which is also for a 53FDX01B.
According to Post 220, the resistor for RK62 is 3.3 ohm. However, in this kit, RK62 is 1.8 Ohm.
Should I use the kit's 1.8 ohm resistor or use a 3.3 ohm resistor? Any one else out there that fixed their 53FDX01B that remembers what they used for RK62?
2010-12-06, 07:06 PM
I ordered and installed the IC chips and resistors for my 53FDX01B. The ICs are Sanyo STK394-160. I used the resistors as specified in the service manual.
When I first turned on the set the picture looked awful. I went into DCAM and the pattern looked like the example given in the DCAM manual on page 74 for an "example of uncorrected convergence crosshatch".
DCAM Manual (http://www.lbaileyht.com/Hitachi_DCAM_Manual.pdf)
I'm trying to follow the instructions for doing the manual convergence, but I'm unable to adjust any of the points. I have the remote model CLU-575TSI, which has a joystick. I can select different points for each of the colours (using 2,4,5,6), but when I use the joystick to move the points, nothing happens. The screen flashes as if it was trying to refresh the display, but there is no movement in any direction for any of the colours.
I double checked my soldering job and everything looks okay. Any ideas?
2010-12-20, 08:56 PM
Do I really need all these items in the Hitachi 51SWX20B repair kit (http://www.tvrepairkits.com/xcart/home.php?cat=1599) or can I just buy the chips, resistors, and thermal paste?
How good and accurate is the Photo Instruction Manual included in the kit? I'm guessing that I can find other sources for photos. Or would this be false economy on my part?
I doubt they are charging a significant amount for the paperwork. There are some photos in this thread. Please read post 1 and the links there thoroughly.
2010-12-23, 11:39 PM
I went ahead and ordered the kit from tvrepairkit.com. Should be here in a couple of weeks. We'll see if I can fix the Hitachi 1080i RPTV. I still prefer the black level compared to current Sony LED-lit LCD. Of course the Sony is half the price of the Hitachi.:)
2011-01-27, 04:40 AM
Well I have to check my tv again. it's still sitting around.. the STK's were NOT the problem.
it's either the power supply (which seems fine) or I'm thinking it's one of the vertical/horizontal deflection IC's..
seems like my repairman last time changed the two things above. So I assume one of them got wrecked again since I am having the same problem as before.
He never replaced the STK's.. I did but it had no effect.
Anyone ever replaced or gotten deflector IC's? I might pull it out and read the # of it.
Were the resistors all replaced as per post 1 of this thread? Read post 1 carefully and thoroughly.