57

Read lots of this thread but nothing seems like my problem...

When I get to the grid everything is lined up except the vertical parts of the red lines and they wont move to the left or right.

Do i have just a mild form of the typical problem?

Thanks for your time,
Mike

I have a 53FDX01B that is probably over 9 years old now. And the other day I had the RED gun/tube/crt shift to the Right.... Did a little reading to see what I could do to fix the problem, and found on this site how to repair this problem. I called around hoping local TV repair shops would have the kit but none did. Any case I figured I would remove the board since the picture is so messed up.

What I found was a six or so Solder Joint on the STK392-110 were cracked/cold, so I thought let me try to resolder them to make a good solder joint and see if that would get the set back up and running.

Well... Before I did this I did a convergence test (Blue Button) to try to get the picture a little better until I got it repair. Sure enough most of the red crosshairs would only adjust up and down, not left and right EXCEPT a few lines at the edged of the screen. Well I adjusted these to give me a decent picture until I repaired the set.

Well after I resoldered the ICs, I think the red lines shifted back to the left....but I have been fighting the convergence to get the reds to line back up.

Long Story short....Is there anyway to reset the ROM to get the points back to a factory default so I can redo the convergence from scratch????

Thanks!!!

I was able to load from ROM, so it is back in order. Broked Solder joints did not solve the problem. I ordered a kit....will install that next week.

Does anyone have a 52FDX01B service manual they can email me???

msf22, you have the problem. The fix is outlined in post 1. Read it carefully and thoroughly and do as recommended. Once you're proceeding with the fix, it's not a good idea to only do a portion.

57
Thanks for your time and the feedback.
I will proceede with the fix.

Resistors measures good. replace with new STKs doesn't help. Have to to the DCAM to correct the problem.

Have you ever see the SMD caps inside the shielded can on the convergence board goes bad? Or leaky?

As mentioned many times in this thread, a resistor measuring good is not a guarantee that it's working properly. I'm not saying that's your problem, however, many people have gone back, replaced resistors and then had a working TV. Whenever the board is out, it's an easy job to do everything right the first time, instead of going back, replacing resistors, soldering ICs properly, etc.

57..... You are the absolute man. Seriously, thanks for your help.

One final question... Can I change the settings for my Black/white contrast in service mode? Using the user controls does not make much difference and thats the last adjustment I need to get my picture back perfect. As of now its alomost like the brightness is to high but its not the actual brightness control....
jharbinson... Did you ever get your "brightness" issue fixed?? I just did a convergence repair on my tv too and my screen also seems to bright/foggy white looking.

Thanks for all the great info!!!

I purchased the kit for my 53FDX01B and it solved my problems with the red tube. I was afraid that the kit would have the wrong resistors as my chassis didn't match the one that was listed. 4 out of the 6 resistors were correct...my blue and red tubes had the same resistors so since my red tube had the issue I just changed the red, and green and left the original resistors in the blue tube. Changed the two stk ICs, and tested it tonight.

Everything worked great. I did a full convergence adjustment, and everything is great.

Only other downside to this ordeal was...i picked up a virus when I was searching for a "free" service manual....ARGE!!!

Any case thanks to all who made this thread such a great asset.

P.S. I could still use a digital manual if someone has one.

Need to reset the codes for a samsung dtv 1080 i

Well, after 9 years mine went with a convergence problem this week end. I've got the parts on order.

Great forum and lots of info.

Oh, by the way, for the folks that have Hitachi's and if you prefer to replace the board versus fixing the board, let me know and I'll give you the info as to where you can purchase a re-manufactured board, or for that matter, a new board.

Lionel

would like info on where to purchase boards for hitachi

Well, just an update. Ordered the kit, replaced Ic's and resistors, did a convergence setup and now, watching TV!

Worked quite well. Now, has anyone figured out how to install a fan in these things to keep the iC's cooler?

Hi guys just had the convergence ic's replaced on my Toshiba 50h82 by a local tv repair man but now have another problem.

After putting the board back in and expecting to see a working tv I was shocked to see the same problem well maybe a worse than before. Neither my red or green convergence moves horizontally.

I noticed that a resistor (r7726) was opened up now I don't believe this was opened before having the ic repair done. So back to the shop I went and had resistor (r7726) replaced. Got board back installed it powered up still same problem. Took the board back out and sure enough resistor (r7726) was opened up again! Im sure whatever causing r7726 to open up is the problem now I just need to figure out what that problem is. Could it be a problem with the solder on the covergence ic's? another bad resistor causing r7726 to go bad? Any help would be appreciated guys I really dont want to keep taking this thing back to the shop for repairs.

Hi. One of the resistors in my Hitachi calls for a 3.9 @ 1watt resistor. I couldn't find a 3.9 @ 1 watt, so I bought a 3.9 @ 5 watt. Will this be ok? It looks different, in that is not a cylinder shape like more resistors, rather a big honkin white box, about the size of a piece of gum. Thanks!

Heyy I'm sure you've heard this many times before, but in post one it mentioned that if you mess up you'll loose your magic focus, and I've seen it where everyones' able to get to their DCAM, but this time is a little different...
I messed up mine before I came across this forum, when I just had the service manual and that's pretty much it, anywho, so I lost my magic focus along with any functionality of the small blue button, and I don't know how to get it back, any advice??

++I just joined and since I seen 57's posts so much throughout the 46 pages I've read (yes, I've read all of them), I mentioned you as a "referral"

Hi. One of the resistors in my Hitachi calls for a 3.9 @ 1watt resistor. I couldn't find a 3.9 @ 1 watt, so I bought a 3.9 @ 5 watt. Will this be ok? It looks different, in that is not a cylinder shape like more resistors, rather a big honkin white box, about the size of a piece of gum. Thanks!
lemme answer my own question in case it helps someone else later.

yes, you can use a 2 watt or 5 wattt resistor in place of the regular 1 watt.

http://i41.tinypic.com/29kuakp.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/t4y1bk.jpg

My question is on my Hitachi 43FWX20B which is having the same Convergance problems as everyone else, but I can seem for the life of me to be able to get the big red wires off the distributor cap looking device and I can't get the little white connectors off of the board either.

I have assembled multiple computers, so not being able to remove a connector from a board is frustrating me beyond belief, so any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

PS--I will clean the dust once I get the board out of the cabinet-- :)

I have a Hitachi 43fdx1b which I replaced the IC's and appeared to fix the picture problem, however, I have no green. Magic Focus was no help and appeared to overcompensate for no green with more red and blue. None of the resistors looked discolored when I replaced the IC's. Any suggestions for getting green back?

I am having same issue removing those damn red wires ***Grits teeth***

Any help anyone?

The red wires probably use BNC connectors. You push down and turn counter-clockwise about 1/4 turn, they should then be loose, but sometimes they can be quite difficult to remove - after the 1/4 turn, do some wiggling (of the wires, not your butt) ;).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BNC_connector

If resistors are blowing, then you likely have a short or other issue on your board, as per post 1.