: Hitachi & Other Manufacturers Convergence Problems (STK392-110 ICs) Read Post 1
Initially after just a few minutes, it would pop proper.Obviously with the thermal expansion a contact that is not made while cold becomes a "good" contact with heat. I'd suspect cracked/bad solder somewhere, but that's just a guess. Read post one and the links there carefully and thoroughly.
2009-06-03, 02:27 AM
I tend to agree.
I looked a bit closer tonight and ran my HD colour bars test pattern that I recorded from HDNet some time ago and it looks like the green is not running.
So it's likely not the convergence problem this thread discusses.
I'll tackle the connector and solder issues when I get a chance and see what she does.
2009-06-15, 05:53 AM
I just picked up this TV and am trying to fix it. the image was really blurry and dark so i took the tv apart and started messing around. I figured out how to manually focus the three CRT's mechanically, then read later on here about the trimpots. the TV is in much better focus now but its still not perfect, and the trimpots are maxed. I was getting so excited.
the convergence is a bit off, and i couldnt get the convergence test to do anything (but i dont have the remote) can i use the tv's ctrls to do this or no? edit: it would appear that i not only need a remote, but the ORIGINAL one to do the test.
now that the tv is apart its hard to go back and test these things that ive learnt from this site. but im assuming the IC's are blown. i've tested all the big resistors on all three boards
I found 9 resistors that show broken circuits!!!. so i started testing the small ones and most of them show infinite resistance? am i missing something here?!? my picture quality wasnt even that bad anymore. mainly shitty colour and contrast. things I expect to be fixed with new IC's. Edit: woops. they were just out of range. looks like all my resistors are good. maybe my ic's are fine too? :shrug:
the solder on the back looks fine, a few of the connections are cloudy and have flux around them but nothing serious.
What should i do.?? i dont want to put money into this thing if it isnt going to work afterwards. ive already spent enough time tinkering around with it.
2009-06-15, 11:23 AM
I got this tv from friend who gave it to me. It definitely had convergence issues. I ordered the repair kit. Replaced the IC's and one resistor that looked bad. Couldn't get the the red to move. I have the AP93 chassis, so I attempted to remove the flyback cables to completely remove the board. I got one out just fine. Unfortunately, the other two didn't come out as well. Once I got the board out, I checked all of the solder points. I did have to re-solder a couple of spots, but everything else looked fine. I did notice that there is a resistor(R714) that is just below the PCB post that looks bad. Since it is discolored, I have no idea what type of resistor it is. Any help? In addition, any advice on what to do about the two flyback cables that I pulled out of the connectors? Yeah, I know, I'm an idiot, but I'm learning.
2009-06-16, 07:24 PM
I re-ordered the convergence kit. Tonight I replaced all of the convergence resisters and once again replaced the IC's. Hooked everything back up and still have and football shaped picture. All soldier joints looked fine. Rechecked cables and everything's hooked up right. Don't want to have a repairman service it, don't want to spend the money on it. Very frustrating.
2009-06-18, 10:27 AM
I also have a 53UWX10B Hitachi with a convergence problem. The magic focus stsrts to align but just before completion, the blue drifts back again to the right. Is there a way to manually adjust the convergence possibly in the back of the set somewhere. My remote, front of set does not have any settings for manual settings for convergence. I dont have the money to have someone fix and probably not the steady of hand to do it myself.
If the TV is broken (ICs, resistors, solder) as indicated in post 1 of this thread, you cannot manually overcome this. Here are the instructions for the DCAM convergence, also from post 1 of this thread if you wish to give it a try:
My guess is that if the convergence is way off, then you'll need to do the proper repair as outlined in post 1 and the links there.
What's up with all the Hitachi problems.This is not only a Hitachi issue. As mentioned in post 1, this (IC issue) affects all CRT-based RPTVs sooner or later.
2009-07-22, 09:27 PM
I live in montreal and could use a local source also.
I forgot to mention that I also have a 46f500 with convergence problems, opening up the rear and saw STK392-150's. If these are supposed to be the newer types to use , do I need to replace them ( whole kit ) or upgrade (kit again ) or?
Well after putting 450 bucks into it about 3 years ago it now has convergence problem again, 3 years ago the green gun was also replaced. I am now giving it away, Pick up only, Calgary Alberta, may be useful to someone for parts, or someone can replace DCUs.
2009-07-31, 04:07 PM
Thanks for the informative thread regarding parts and repair procedure. I have a Hitachi 46F500 that I received from a friend with this issue. I have collected 2 new Sanyo STK392-150's, and the appropriate resistors for my set.
I'm a computer technician by trade, so I have experience with soldering and components, but little to none with HV flyback transformers.
My main concern is how can I discharge the transformer? Is there an anode point? I've searched this thread for a clear answer and haven't found one. I don't mind melting a screwdriver if it means I keep my fingers and a regular heartbeat. :)
2009-08-07, 11:47 PM
I have a KP46WT510 with a convergence problem. Tech replaced IC's and stated that resisters were fine. The problem still persisted. Tech claimed that I may need a new DCU board (dont know what this is) but then after further review determined that it was a power supply problem. My question is, can IC's going out affect the Power supply? According to the tech, once the IC's go out, it will sometimes mess with the DCU board or power supply. Does this sound right? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
2009-08-22, 04:18 PM
re: Hitachi 53UWX10BA
About 3 years there was a problem with shadowing. It was under warranty and the service tech fixd the problem by replacing the convergence chips. He replaced the original SK392-110 with SK392-120.
Now the problem of shadowing has come back so I figured it was the same problem. After reading some comments here and at other sites I decided to upgrade the chips to SK392-150.
I installed them today during which I checked the resistors around them and they were OK and when I turned the set back on it still had the same problem. I began running Magic Focus and part way thru the set shut down with the red LED on the front blinking and 2 of the green LEDs, DP11 and DP35, on the DP1X Deflection bord also blinking.
Any hints where to go from here?
Read post one of this thread for a list of things that people did wrong. Checking the resistors is often a mistake since they require cutting one end for a proper check, so getting a kit and replacing the appropriate resistors is usually the safest route. You also need to check the solder on the board. Read post 1 and the links there carefully and thoroughly.
2009-08-25, 09:00 PM
I have a Hitachi 51swx20b that I bought in 2002. It's lasted 7 years with nary a complaint but today out of the blue I experienced the dreaded convergence failure.
My financial situation is such that a 3-400 fix is completely out of the question and I can't imagine going without my daily HDTV fix. So I'm going to give this thing a go even though my experience with tv electronics is nil. I've done a few simple things on my computer along the lines of installing a hard drive and dvd drive but this is a much bigger challenge- which excites and scares me.
In doing a search, prior to finding this thread, I heard about a site that produces convergence repair kits and provides instructive online support while repairs are made (tvrepairkits.com). Has anyone tried them? Any feedback?
Also can anyone recommend a good online tutorial on soldering and/or working on a RPTV?
Thanks in advance.
2009-09-05, 09:35 AM
I've tried to be patient waiting for a response. I hate those people that jump the gun on forums and continually bump threads until they get a response. I find that rude and unseemly.
So I've waited patiently til now for a reply.
Is anyone out there?
Thank you for your patience. There are already several links in post 1 of this thread on how to do this repair, including some basic soldering/desoldering info in the links. Read post 1 and the links there carefully and thoroughly. As for a specific soldering tutorial, perhaps you'll need to search the web if you need more than is included in those links.
2009-09-14, 03:13 PM
I also have a 53UWX10B Hitachi. I have replaced the STK392-110's and all the resistors, and now when I turn on the set, it sounds like the high voltage is arcing. I checked all the connections, and pulled the resistors and they are good.
I discoonect the convergence connections to the yokes, and the same. I disconnect the HV red lines and it goes away or if I disconnect the yoke power connections it seems to go away as well.
I thought I read somewhere that these have flyback transformers go bad. Any other way to test it out? I am not too interested in spending the $75+ on this set for the flyback transformer.
Just wanted to say that I have checked this forum many times but never joined until now. Had to; to say thanks for the info in this thread! I have a Hitachi 61udx10b and a couple of months ago it suffered from convergence failure. I was able to find the repair kit mentioned in this thread and fix my TV. I debated for a while between buying new or fixing and I'm very happy that I decided to fix my TV. Still has a great picture! Thanks again.
2009-10-13, 01:12 PM
I have a Hitachi 43fdx15b and I tryed the manual convergence and Im stuck in Static mode and I can't find the blue button to get out of this can anyone help me thank you Sandra
If you take off the front (not back) access panel to most Hitachis, the blue button would be on the chassis, near your lower left. Your model could be different.