: Hitachi & Other Manufacturers Convergence Problems (STK392-110 ICs) Read Post 1
2009-01-18, 02:30 AM
Like many before me, I found this thread and am amazed at the excellent detail...Thank you very much. I lost my convergence and found this thread a while back and used the manual convergence post to fix the problem and that lasted about a year or so. When it went out just recently, I tried that process again, but could not shift at least one of the colors at all. I figured that must mean the convergence ICs have gone so I found the repair kit JT22052 Repair Kit - X480293, which has the 2 ICs and 6 Resistors. As mentioned in the first post, the replacement ICs are Sanyo STK394-160E and a couple of the resistors are a bit different than the one called-out on the schematic in the service manual.
I replaced the resistors and ICs, and tried to perform a manual convergence. I have control over the Red (H, V) and the Green (V)...(these are on IK04), but I cannot shift the G (H) and Blue (V, H) at all...(these are on IK05). My first thought was that I must have done something wrong, so I pulled the board again and check continuities and resistor values and everything seems to check-out. From the thread, I think the next thing I should do is look for broken solder joints, but I was wondering if anyone has run into anything similiar that might lead me to look in any particular place on the board. In one of the posts I seem to recall someone mentioning checking points while the TV is on...in the service manual I believe there is a table with values for certain points, is that what that post was referring to?
Any guidance is greatly appreciated...the old 27" CRT is getting old...
2009-01-25, 07:46 PM
Kudos to all the support and experience that is found in this post. After reading every page, and studying the key info pertaining to my model #, I successfully pulled off what I otherwise would never have considered doing myself. (I love the X ray radiation hazard warning on the back cover!)
In my case, I determined that I needed to purchase the Kit #1o listed in post #1/parts supplier link.
Upon removing my converg. board for inspection (manuf. Feb 2004) I did not see any physical signs of resistor failure. I ended up replacing both STK-150 chips and was up and running in a few hours. ( The kit I bought contained 2 resistors that weren't pertininent to my board. )
The key area I overlooked was that when my convergence failed 2 weeks ago, I made massive manual changes to try to correct the problem.
The changes I made were so drastic, that after replacing chips, I thought I was still in trouble, and that I should replace resistors.......
Bottom line, I spent as much time aligning the convergence after the repair, as I did on the repair.
I'm 2 days into use of new chips only, and manual converg. adjustments made, and everything is golden.
2009-01-26, 12:50 AM
Regarding Post 46:D
OK I know this is an old post but I need to know if there is a replacement convergence board for a Hitachi 43F300?
can some one point me to the correct repair kit for a hitachi 53uwx10b convergence board or possibly a remmaned board? thanks
Did you try the links to the various kit suppliers in post 1? Did you e-mail them if they don't have it listed? That's a pretty common chassis.
2009-02-15, 09:03 PM
I just want to say that I have read through this thread and with all the information I found I was able to repair my Hitachi 57SWX20B. I replaced the two IC's and the resistors which I bought from a local store. The total I paid to repair it was around $40. The cost for a technician to come and just diagnose the TV was $60, and I assume that I would have paid $300+ to have them repair it. With this said, I want to thank everyone who has contributed to this post and please know that I am very grateful for all of you who have taken time to keep this thread going for almost 4 years.
2009-02-18, 11:25 AM
On my DP2X deflection PWB my RK58 resistor is burnt and I can"t read
Some other Hitachi sets listed show a 3.3 ohm. I don't want assume
mine will be the same. Can someone help me please.
2009-02-20, 01:36 PM
I have been reading and researching this convergance issue with RPTV's after mine took a crap on me 3 weeks ago. I bought the upgraded STK392-150's fo my Panasonic along with the 6 resistors that the repair kits are calling for to be replaced. I checked my OEM resistors and all of them registered 2.5 ohms, the new resistors also registered 2.5 ohms so I figured the OEM resistors were OK but I replaced them anyway.
I installed the new IC's as instructed in this thread and other links, and I double checked my solder points and I don't have any shorts between the IC pins. So I figured these were good.
But when I put the new resistors/ IC's in I did not have a desolder braid to clean all of the old solder from the main board. And when I inserted the new resistors, the legs did not go in real good So I had to heat up the old solder in order to get the legs deep enough into the board. On a couple of these the resistor barrel got hot enough where I had to let go. Could the heat transfer from the solder iron thru the legs damage the resistor or make it fail? I did double check the resistors and they still register 2.5 Ohms. Have any of you had resistors read the true ohm reading but know that they were bad??
Also, I did not have any heat sink grease so when I put the new IC's back in place they did not have new grease on them. does the heat sink create enought heat in 10 min to cause the IC's to fail???
Is there anyway to check to see if the IC is shot or do I have to have a tech do this???
I will say this, my convergence looks better since i have made the repairs but it is still way offand now the top left quadrant of the screen looks good, it is just the rest of the picture looks as if it is a 3-D movie. and I can not move the Green conv. L or R, and the Red and Blue will not go right past center.
This is differant then when the promlem first appeard.
I am leaving on a work trip Tuesday and would like to get this repaired this weekend so my wife and kids can have the TV back again.
Thansk for all the help and suggestions.
2009-03-02, 07:01 PM
Sorry, 57's brain is probably fried and so he must've left to Hawaii or something after finishing this big, long, 4 year post? I don't blame him. Every question that gets asked from this point on, has already been answered at least 3-4 times if you read the complete string from POST #1 as 57 has stated 5 million times. For those of you who have read the whole string (congrats to yooou), it seems as though your repairs have been successful and without much incident. But based on what I read here, for the people who were too lazy to READ and absorb everything since POST #1, usually would mostly just post some retarded question that just makes them look dumb to all the readers. I highly advise (and challenge) anybody who comes to this string in quest for a DIY repair to solve their IC caused convergence issues, to PLEASE, save 57 the trouble of having to re-type the words: "Read post #1" again. I commend him for his lasting patience in dealing with your avg NFL watch'n, Budweiser drink'n DIY guy, or your avg busy soccer Mom to whom don't think they have the time to read, and therefore expect everyone else here to just repost content again and again just for them. This post would only be like 6-8 pages long had everyone read before they posted anything. That said, here's my brief story:
My 61" Hitachi RPTV did the same bad convergence thing with the red color, so after reading here, I ordered the B&D Enterprises kit, and also found a download-able service manual for my DP-17 chassis online for $10 bucks, found the diagram of the convergence board, and as per several posts read here, realized that DP-17 chassis has 2 differently sized resistors than what came with my IC repair kit, since it was intended for the DP-14G chassis (correct ohm values are CLEARLY shown in the wiring diagram FOR YOUR SET). So I ordered the right other 2 resistors (a second 2.2 ohm, and second 1.5 ohm), and put them in along with the other 4 correct sized ones that came with the B&D kit, checked for cracks or dry soldier joints, re-soldiered a few other joints, making sure not to heat up the joints excessively so I don't damage components, etc, yada yada as per post #1 and beyond. And it all works great. Next I'm going to do the other repairs (found elsewhere on the www) to fix my surround sound card in this same TV. This should get me 2 years more of use out of this set, or until such time the 65 inch LCD 120hz panels are down to around 2 grand. Then I will scrap this boat anchor:cool:
Moral of story...Please read the whole thing. After a while, you get good at ID'ing the dumb question posts and skipping onto the real meat of the thread, thus saving time. The research pays off.
And my hat's off to 57. I never known any man to have so much patience with the ignorant, and over such a long time-span
Hey someone had to say it
THANK YOU TO EVERYONE who contributed here.
2009-03-05, 11:34 AM
This has been talked about with no concrete answers. Is there a better chip than the -110 that is a replacement, the -120, the -150, or others? And if so, what are the new resistor values that go along with the replacements? My set is the 43FDX01B. I do see some of these other chips do have a somewhat different voltage value, so I believe that probably is why the different resistor values, but what resistor value replaces each of the existing resistor values in the set. A lot of people have been asking this with no definate answer. Maybe we can get this this resolved once and for all. I do not see any answers in Post #1.
Does this problem also affect the 57T500 set? I notice that my convergence is starting to drift abit and after doing a touch up it still goes off.
This issue affects all CRT-based RPTVs, which the 57T500 is. Most CRT-RPTVs do drift a bit after a period of time. A proper manual (or DCAM) convergence every 6-12 months is usually a good idea, rather then doing the (automatic) Magic Focus.
2009-03-10, 12:55 PM
I have replaced the convergence kit twice on my Hitachi 61UDX10B and I have also replaced the convergence board. The Red & the Green control sections adjust perfectly the problem is with the Blue, it is shifted to the left side of the screen and will not adjust at all. When I try to adjust it the lines seem to vibrate like they are getting the correcting voltage but are just not adjusting anything. I'm not sure what to try next whether the problem could be in the deflection circuit or in the physical gun hardware itself. I'm not sure how much more time or money my wife is going to allow me to sink into this but any help would be appreciated.
2009-03-31, 11:31 PM
The only similarity between RCA bad convergence and Hitachi or Sony is that they all use crts. The circuitry is totally different and different circuits are repaired. If a rookie tech fixed RCA bad convergence in under a week, I would buy him all the chicken he could eat.
If inexperienced consumer with a stained glass window soldering iron tries to fix an RCA "convergence" problem, the result will be scrap.
2009-05-04, 05:17 PM
I Have a blown rk62 resistor in my Hitichi 51F500 Chassis DP23/35
I Cant tell what that resistor value is. Radio Shack thought it was a 1/2watt 2ohm most post seem to say it a 1watt 2.2 ohm the repair manual I found and down loaded does not have that much detail. any help would be great thanks.
2009-05-12, 11:37 AM
I have ordered everything I need except the resistors. Can someone let me know which locations i need to swap and what the values are on these?
If someone has a copy of the service manual that would be great!!
I have read the entire post.
2009-05-29, 01:14 PM
Had convergence problem similar to description in this thread. Magic Focus stops halfway through red and get "4" code. Red wouldn't align left-right. Paid a Pro $100 to replace ICs (he had stk-110s, the old chips which were in the TV, not 150s.) Estimate was $350, but since problem was not solved, he only charged $100 for service call. Said all resistors looked good. (yes I read the threads about new ICs failing if resistors are bad. I can only go with what the tech told me. But there was no change in symptoms.)
Since convergence ICs did not fix problem, he indicated the eprom (which stores the convergence data) may be bad. Or, if not that, the magnet around the yoke could be failing. Estimate quickly went to $7-800 to replace eprom, with no guarantee this would fix problem or something else in 5-6 yr old tv wouldn't fail in 3 months.
I have not seen this eprom discussed in the thread. Since the tv is junk, I am considering trying to fix it myself while looking at new tvs.
Anyone know the p/n of this eprom and where to buy?
If you're thinking of fixing yourself, get yourself a kit, replace the ICs and the resistors. This cures it for most people and "failures" are almost always the result of the resistors not being replaced, or bad soldering on the board or during replacement.
There are very few experiences outside that. Read post 1 and the links there carefully and thoroughly. I have never heard of the EPROM issue, but that's not to say it's impossible.
The comment about the resistors looking good has me worried, since lots of people say that, and then find it was the resistors all along. The technician who fixed my TV did exactly the same thing, but when I told him to replace the resistors (as I had told him to do originally but he didn't do) all was fine, although he had to replace the ICs again because they were blown (at his cost). Some technicians simply don't believe that the customer knows anything...
2009-05-30, 12:18 PM
Thanks. Guess I'll check the resistors before doing anything. I know -- gotta snip one end so I'm measuring the resistor only.
2009-06-02, 10:43 PM
Lots of talk about Hitachi after scanning all 39 pages.
I have a Pioneer SD533-HD5
Nice set in its day.
Had a deflection board replaced last year.
Set is 7 or 8 years old.
Now when I turn it on, it looks like a colour is missing or seems so as not possible to make white, but when I look closer, the blue convergence is off.
Linearity is fine both vertical and horizontal.
Initially after just a few minutes, it would pop proper.
Nice whites, convergence is perfect again.
It seems to be taking upwards of 10 minutes now get be proper.
This clearly has some sort of THERMAL characteristic to it.
What's the opinion here? Resistor, IC or bad solder?
I may try and get a picture of it when it's cold next.
Want to replace it, but need to keep it running until the fall.
Watching the new technology or I'll just break down and get a Panny Plasma for the new season.
If easily fixable, would be a nice set for the basement.
Used to be a electronics tech, but solder skills due to aging vision are making it more and more difficult.