Thanks 57. I just checked our records and the first time it went was the third year, the second time it went was about 6 months after that and now not even 2 years.

Maybe time to buy an LCD.

Thanks for your help.
RV

the second time it went was about 6 months after thatI would suspect that a complete repair was not done at that time, or non-OEM parts used.

If the TV is repaired properly, as discussed in post 1 (ICs, Resistors, solder), there is no reason for it not to last the rest of its life without needing another similar repair. Many people did the repair many years ago - once.

Your TV is a bit different since it's "high use", but that still doesn't explain the many repairs you've had and also a lot of people have "high use" TVs.

Anyway, the choice on what to do is yours.

Ok, well I just finished replacing the convergence IC's along with the resistors supplied in the kit. And well the convergence is definetly worse than before.


Did I fry the IC's? or is it normal for the convergence being this jacked up after replacing the ics?


http://i35.tinypic.com/25993f7.jpg

the red is just everywhere

any help would be greatly appreciated.

Looks like something is amiss. Perhaps shorted the solder on the red IC.?

Hi new to the board but have receieved much info here. I recentlypicked up a Hitachi 43FDX01B from someone for free because of the Convergence problem they were having. I just replaced the ic's resoldered and checked the resistors TV is back in action. I only did the simple cross pattern convergence so far and it looks good, I will be doing the service convergence this weekend and was wondering if anyone knows of any other tricks or tweaks to improve the picture further? While the setwas apart I also cleaned the lenses and the mirror. Looking forward to hearing from you experts, I am having a blast learning all this stuff.:)

Just repaired my Hitachi 53" HD projection. I repaired electronics (including TVs) in the 80s and early 90s and already owned the service manual, so I looked up the convergence circuit. Found that they use STKs and suspected they might be a problem. I always had issues with those things on old 80's amplifiers too. Got online and did some searches and sure enough, great info confirming the STKs and info on places to get parts.

I purchased my STKs from a store which I found somewhere in this thread. I wanted originals as cross-overs can give you problems. I purchased the resistors locally.

Upon initial inspection of the board, I found many pins completely separated from the original solder joints (cold solder joints). I decided to re-solder the board as all the resistors checked fine also. I threw the board back in and same thing, no change at all. Decided to install the -150 version ICs I ordered and replaced the resistors as recommended on this forum anyway. Threw it back in and all is well, other than needing some service convergence adjustment. Looks OK for now though. It has been up for about 4 hours.

Just some advice from an old school electronics repair guy. Thought I would advise everyone to really check the board for cold solder joints as there were dozens on my PCB. I think this is what took out my ICs as the resistors were good. Also, never just re-heat the old solder. Always add some new solder to get a clean connection. Also, if you think you have enough heat-sink compound on the IC, then you probably have used too much. It doesn't take a lot. The original crap was caked on and dried out. Be sure to remove ALL of the old stuff and clean the heat sink well before installing the new ICs with fresh grease. Your connections should look shiny and pretty. If they look dull, you have hit that solder too many times and the rosin has bled out of it. Fresh rosin helps the solder joints remain separated. You start drying that stuff out and you will get solder bridges.

I have to wonder if there aren't some bad caps in there somewhere too. I couldn't find my ESR meter, or I would have checked them too.

Thanks to this forum and other resources on the Internet for some great info!

I have the same problem.
My Tv is Hitachi 53" HD projection 53FDX01b
here is the problem

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/9401/pb151018rh6.th.jpg (http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pb151018rh6.jpg)http://img231.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5128/pb151020ri0.th.jpg (http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pb151020ri0.jpg)http://img231.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)

So, can some one show me what part I have to replace?
thanks !

I found a LOT of great information at this site! Thanks! I just have a few remaining questions maybe someone can help me with.

My TV is a Hitachi 60SX12B. Problem is it would go to a blank screen with no sound requiring us to turn it off and then back on. After a few weeks of this the convergence went south. Another week or so and it turned off but won't turn back on. Tried unplugging/reseting but to no avail. I recently pulled the board and see solder cracks on the IC's. Also see some hot spots on the solder side of the board that need attention. So my questions are:

My tv uses 3 STK4274 IC's. I can replace with STK4274 IC's but is there a cooler running direct replacement for these?

Is there a replacement 'kit' with resistors for the Hitachi 60SX12B with 3 STK4274 used on the AP63B chassis? The kits I've seen so far are for different IC's and chassis.

I have a schematic but I'm not sure what resistors I should be checking or replacing on my board. I checked some obvious ones next to the IC's and they were all good. I can share a picture of the board and schematic if that helps. Can someone provide some guidance?

Finally, I have solder spots on my board that show signs of heat. Is there a way to clean, check and/or repair these areas? Can provide a pic of this as well.

Thanks in advance for the help!!!

Here are a couple of the pics I mentioned:

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ragtops3/Hitachi/hitachi60sx12bboard1.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g213/ragtops3/Hitachi/hitachi60sx12bboard2.jpg

So I showed my board to the guys in my electrical department at work and they tell me it's just solder flux the manufacturer failed to remove! So I wiped a spot or two with some denatured alcohol and off it came. One problem solved! I also resoldered the IC's (there were cracks on a couple) and retried the board. Still doesn't come on and only the red 'protection' circuit light comes on.

Basically I'm stumped at this point unless someone can help me determine which resistors need to be tested or replaced along with the new IC's.

Folks I would like to relay my current situation with this rptv and hopefully get some feedback.
The problem is that all the white areas of the tv are blurry, IE espn bottom line and network icons or really anytime there are letters on the screen. The overall picture is less crisp than it has been in the past. Before I found this site I called my local service center. They came out and showed me the 3 focus adlustment pots on the front left of the tv. After he adjusted the focus and charged me 135.00 it looked great. I also believe he used the infamous blue buttonto do this. 6 weeks later the tv has the same symptoms so I adjusted the focus on my own. Well I got close but not all the way as the focus adjustments are now maxed out. Since then it has came back and I have went to manual convergence and tried to clean things up from there. That has produced very marginal results.
Today i called several of the Hitachi parts suppliers listed off the link on page 1. They seemed to have 2 different stories for me. One was there is no "kit" for this tv just individual ic's. there are 2 prices on the ic's as well. The Hitchi oem ic's are 32.50 and the generics are 15.90.
The second was several of them could not locate the proper ic's. The ones that could recommended STK394-250.

I would like to know what the members here think about this situation as far as am I on the right path with the convergence ic's?

If I do replacce them can I move the focus adjustments back to a midway point.

Do I use the OEM Parts?

And is there a kit available for this Tv?

Im confused as to what the blue button actually does or is for.

thanks in advance.

Dave

The blue button is a reset button which takes the TV out of static mode (9 crosses instead of DCAM), as well as other functions outlined in the service manual.

Use only OEM parts as outlined in post 1.

If you don't have the 3D colour effect, then you may have something else wrong, but it could be related to ICs and the resistors. I guess for under $100 you can try the fix to see if it does the job, but the focus comments concern me, since that could be an unrelated issue.

What you did is an electronic focus and there is also a mechanical focus which you can do right on the CRTs themselves. If you want to discuss that, please start a separate thread, or search for "mechanical focus" or similar...

57,
Thanks for the input. I saw your comment about focus and the halo either to one side or surrounding the letter. I in fact have the halo surrounding the letters. I am searching for mechanical focus procedures as you suggested.
Any more thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I'd rather not clutter your forums with topics that have been discussed in detail already.

Dave

I, like many, had the convergence problems and have swapped out my ic's with stk392-180's. Now that I have done this I have no picture and only a led flash 8 times on the power light. Any suggestions? Is the 8 flashes a specific code? Thanks ahead of time (btw...this site just may save this t.v. from becoming a bookshelf!)

Josh

Did you change out the resistors and check for cracked solder as indicated in post 1 of this thread? Also, you have to be careful not to short the connections when soldering the ICs....

The 8 flashes is probably a service code - you may be able to e-mail Hitachi and find out what it means, or contact a Hitachi service outlet that may tell you....

I too have a Hitachi 53in that is having convergence problems. All lines line up except the verticle blue one which is arched. Is this a bad tube? It happened right after we hooked up the new Wii. When we disconnected the Wii it did not correct itself. The repairs mentioned...can they be done by someone in experienced?

gdmom

It's likely the ICs, resistors, cracked solder issue as discussed in post 1. Please read post 1 carefully and the links there. It's likely not a CRT issue.

Does anyone know where I can download the parts and repair manuals for the Samsung Tantus 47" rear projection TV (HCL4715W). Just bought a 52" Sharp LCD and now I have the courage to try these repairs on my Samsung (yes I will be careful of the high voltage).

.... and phooey on you Samsung - I would have bought another Samsung but not a chance with the bandaids you put on this TV until it was out of warranty. I also just bought an LG 26" LCD monitor so BITE ME SAMSUNG.

[rant\] :D

Thanks
RB

Newbie here.:confused: First of all, I really can't add any more kudos to what has already been said about this Forum - What a fantastic site!:D

I have a Hitachi 53SDX89B that, after finding this Forum, I am convinced is suffering the same blown IC's as most of the problems discussed in this thread. I have removed the board from the TV and have already removed the STK392-110's. I will be ordering the replacement kit tomorrow morning from the parts place recommended in post #1. I have read all 38 pages of this thread and I still have a few questions that I can't seem to find answers for, so I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

I assume (never assume...) that when I order the replacement kit that they will be able to tell me which kit I need that works with my 53SDX89B? Or are the kits universal? It sounds like the STK392-110's have been replaced with the 150's, but based on this thread it does not sound like everyone is in agreement on this. I will again assume that the parts place will point me in the right direction and will go with what they suggest.

I want to confirm exactly which resistors I need to swap out when I get the replacement kit. From all of the posts that I have read, it sounds pretty universal that I will need to remove and replace RK42, 46, 50, 54, 58, and 62. And I want to confirm which resistor in the kit corresponds to each of the above mentioned resistor locations. So I went to the repair manual site (mentioned in another thread on this forum) and wanted to order the repair manual for my TV. I found what I believe to be my chassis number printed on the circuit board. I have a DP86/12 chassis. I have two different manual choices to purchase from the website, one is for a chassis #DP86 and the other is for a #DP86/V. And I can find no info on what the difference is between the two. I have emailed them to ask, but I am hoping someone on this Forum might know in case I don't hear back from the manual site. And the bigger question is, will the repair manual actually tell me the resistor values for RK42, 46, etc? I don't want to spend the $20.00 if it won't tell me what I need to know.:eek:

Does anyone happen to have the same Hitachi 53SDX89B that happens to know which resistors need to be replaced and the corresponding values? Or can anyone tell me if the service manual will tell me this info, and do I need the manual for the DP86 or the DP86/V. OR does the schematic tell me this info assuming I am able to read the schematic?

Because of this Forum, everything else regarding this repair seems pretty well straight forward for which I am grateful to all who have contributed!:p

I appreciate any answers/suggestions/thoughts to my above questions.

Thanks!

Update to my own post -

I ordered the Service Manual for the 53SDX98B. It told me the following:
RK42 = 2.2 ohm
RK46 = 1.5 ohm
RK50 = 2.2 ohm
RK54 = 1.5 ohm
RK58 = 3.3 ohm
RK62 = 1.8 ohm

I ordered convergence kit #9 from B&D. It contains:
2)STK392-110 IC's
1) 1.5 ohm resistor
1) 1.8 ohm resistor
1) 2.2 ohm resistor
1) 2.7 ohm resistor
1) 3.3 ohm resistor
1) 3.9 ohm resistor

I spoke to the folks at B&D and told them I didn't need the 3.9 ohm or the 2.ohm resistors and they included the additional 1.5 and 2.2 ohm resistors that the service manual actually calls for. So I have exact OEM replacement parts on the way. I believe these same parts work for the Hitachi 60SDX88BA as well but don't hold me to it.

The parts should be here Wednesday and I should be back in business.:p

I hope this helps somebody down the road.