- Shorted the solder on the ICs? (Quite common for the amateur)

- Bad resistors even though they were checked?

Currently redoing all the joints for the 5th time, I am actually quite experienced at soldering. Also if it were a resistor wouldn't the image be the same and not worse?

The IC's are definitely staying cold.... which to me would flag them as not working..... any further help?

Rechecked all resistors and all are fine....... resoldering didn't help.... maybe I;ll just start and redo the entire board...... anyone with ideas?

Sorry to say this but you might want to get a new pc board too - the present one might have been damaged by all the rework that had to be done.

I thought about that, but i just can't justify spending $400 on a free TV..... I have carefully examend the board with a bright light behind it could not see and cracks.. so i guess it's back to resoldering the entire board.... at least untill a solution presents itself... thanx

What is the wattage of your iron?

Its a 25watt archer

You probably didn't overheat or bake anything then - just checking. :)

I didn't think so, 25 watts isn't really much...... thanx again for your help... I'm sure I probubly cracked joint when I removed the heat sink.... but the more of the board I resolder the least likely it seems to become...

Here's a weird one, I put the board back in to see if i had to resolder the other half of the board, and it was not pincusioned for the first 10 seconds, or so.. then it went out again...... not sure if this helps of not...... or makes matters work

OK resoldered the entire board, still doesn't work, I'm stumped..... I'm open to every theory here no matter how unlikely.......

You may need new ICs, or perhaps something else is "gone".

I thought breiefly that I might have missed a resistor and reblew the IC but then the problem would have been the same and not worse? Also what other components could cause this....

DigitalHomeCanada does it again, thanks for keeping this site going, it is a mine of information. When my wife first reported the "funny looking" screen, this site was my first reference and this thread gave me the info. Initially, the job looked daunting because the access to the convergence IC's (STK392-110 ICs) was not easy, but step by step with lots of masking tape labels on removed connectors, the board was freed from the chassis. All resistors checked out so I just replaced the IC's and reflowed the 1.8 and 220 ohm resistor joints, it worked fine with only a slight convergence tweak being required. I went for the same IC's, I thought about using some of the later model numbers, 150 for example but there were a few posts where problems seemed to still be there after the change.
Total cost was $12 for a new solder sucker, solder wick and a couple a small sachets of thermal paste and $36 for genuine (thats what they were advertised as) Sanyo IC's.

Thanks again for the info,

Tim

DigitalHomeCanada does it again, thanks for keeping this site going, it is a mine of information.Cheers to 57 for all the great info!

Hello. First post here.

I have owned the Tantus TV as per the title since 2003. We have had a problem with this TV since it was new. The red "gun" goes out of alignment. The TV has a perfect focus option but this doesn't correct it. We have to send the TV in to a repair shop approx 4 hours away from us.

Last night it happened for the 3rd time. The first two times the repair shop told us that it is a known weakness in this model TV (the module that controls the alignment is replaced each time). The first time it happened was within the first year. The second time it happened was just towards the end of the 3rd year (just within warranty period). Now it happens again outside of the warranty period.

My questions are these:

1) Is this a problem experienced by others with this model TV?
2) If yes, have you had to repair it this many times?
3) Is anyone aware of Samsung doing anything to correct this?

When this TV came out it wasn't cheap - I expected that Samsung would do more than just put a bandaid on it until we were out of the warranty period.

RV

The problem is very common, however, if the TV is fixed with the proper parts, the fix should last longer than a couple of years, and usually the problem doesn't arise until at least 2 years, perhaps 4-5 into the life of the TV. I've moved your post into the existing thread on the topic - please read post 1 of this thread and the links there.

It's possible that your repair shop is trying to save you a few $ and not going with the appropriate (OEM) replacement parts, or perhaps he's not replacing the resistors or checking the board for cracked solder, or changing only one IC instead of all of them (depends on the TV make/model).

How long has it been since the last repair?
Do you have your TV in a warm environment?
Or with heat blowing on it?
How long is it on each day?

It's quite rare for a TV to require this number of repairs. You may have some recourse with the manufacturer or your repair shop since it shouldn't require this number of repairs. Most people do the repair once, properly.

Outstanding. Sorry for not seeing this.

The first two times were under warranty so if the repair guy was trying to save money it was Samsung's money.

The TV has gone about 3 years since the last repair. The first repair was within the first year warranty.

Our household has 3 people working shifts - therefore the TV is on alot. The night shift will watch while the dayshift is working etc. Does this make a difference with these types of TV's.

Thanks

Heat is what causes the ICs to fail - so the more the TV is on, the worse it is. Some of the newer ICs (if applicable) are more resistant to the heat issue. Perhaps you can repair again and add a (small, quiet) fan near the ICs to keep them cool.

Make sure all the ICs are replaced, the convergence resistors replaced (easy to do with the board out) and check the board for cracked solder.