IF you read the first post of this thread you'll see that it's a good ideal to replace all ICs and all resistors on the circuit, as well as checking for cracked solder. Once you've got the board out, it's very little additional effort and cost to do the job right.

Well, I wanted to make sure since most people aren't talking about a 14 year old tv with 3 ICs (12-20 resistors) and resistors that are no longer available by part number. Therefore, I'd hate to switch out perfectly working original resistors if I can't find their exact replacement.

> so, I can order any ole resistor with same rating, yes?
> I assume the jumpers are disconnected by popping out one side? (thought I'd ask before I apply too much pressure doing so)

Thx again!

If you wish to "chance" it with only 1 IC and only the resistors you feel need replacing, then that's certainly an option. You can always go back and do more repair if that doesn't do the trick.

The jumpers do pop out on one side. I believe you lift up on the white tab, but don't quote me on that.

I used this great forum to fix my convergence issue... and it worked great! But, now I am having some convergence issues along the upper and lower right edges of the screen. The convergence adjustment works fine (it is a center cross-hair only adjustment) but it does not correct the edges issue.

Any ideas on a fix? I fear my TV is on its last leg...

Thanks again!
Doug

Some of these older TVs with only a single center cross, may have additional crosses in the service menu (you'd need a service manual), or they may not, in which case there's not much to be done. (My previous projection TV from 1982 also only had a single adjustment)

http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=43201 Service codes - heed the warnings.

I have a 53UWX10b and have some pictures of my problem. Anyway I replaced the two 392-110 chips and still no change in my picture. I took the convergence board out and had the shop take out and solder in the new chips. They replace one resistor, but I read a lot of people needing to replace two? Does anyone have a blueprint or picture of this board that they could highlight the resistors that need replaced. I am not sure this is my problem take a look at my pics

As noted in post 1, all of the resistors on the convergence circuit should be replaced. If you click the parts link in post 1, you may be able to find the list of resistors there.

I have a Hitachi 43UWX10B with the convergence problem. Not sure about the part numbers. Are they the same for my TV, i.e. STK 392-110 for the amplifier? What is the part number for the resistor, or for the kit which includes the amplifier and resistor?

There is no part number for the kit, simply contact the place that sells the kits (link in post 1). I believe you can use 150s in place of 110s, your choice - ask the parts people.

Well, I had gone ahead and ordered the parts I need for my old Hitachi. Sure enough, it appears I can't get the resistor(s) that are actually burned out on my board! I've searched several vendors and I guess they all ran out of inventory. Hitachi stopped making them 7 years ago. My question:

> The part, 0113696(M), is a 6.8ohms, 1/2 Watt, CF +/-5%. Besides just returning everything and trashing the tv, is it possible to use a different ohm resistor (like 8.2 or 5.6), or is that a stupid question? ;o) Ideas?

Thx!

ok...i done the convergence repair a few months back...everything went perfect untill 4 or 5 days ago....had the doubling of images for the first few minutes after you turned it on....the yesterday....the screen went black...no sound no picture...i took the back off and can hear a chirping or whining when it is turned on....puuled the board back out and found a cold solder joint...fixed that but still black screen....any ideas?
guess i should have told you ita a hitachi 53fdx01b

About a year and half ago I had problems with my set (not convergence related). However the technician who came down to repair my set told me something interesting. He took the back of the set off to get at its guts. He then told me that it appeared that I did not have much of a dust problem and he recommended that I should leave the back off. Not only would this help the heating issue on the convergence board (of which he was aware of) but would also dissipate the heat on all of the components in my TV. Of course this would help extent the life of the TV as well. I agreed with his idea so he did not replace the back. Of course one and a half years isn’t long enough to see if this works or not, but it does make sense.

...provided you don't have any pets that can get into the guts of the TV.

Wonder if it would make for a good bug zapper. LOL!!! I forgot about pets and more importantly small children. My solution obviously applies only if you have neither.

Hi,

i'm having the same problem with my TV. the only thing i' confused about is my tv has (1) STK392-110 and (1) STK392-150 IC's

is this normal - should i replace with the same thing.. or should i use (2) 110 or (2) -150 IC's

is this a hint someone has already done repaires before???

thanks for any help
Tim

Has your TV been repaired? I assume by your comment that you're not the first owner? People have been using the 150s to replace 110s. You should be able to use two 150s. Make sure you read post 1 of this thread about the resistors and cracked solder. You don't want to blow the new ICs due to faulty resistor, etc.

I need a new DPC Board and am told Toshiba doesn't make “DPC boards” anymore (part #23787717) but they can rebuild one. I'm wondering if I should move on and scrap it. The sad thing is 95% of the picture and TV is great. It's just the corners and bottom that is out of focus and bowed in.

1) Should I trust a rebuilt part?
2) Is there any value in a 2003 Toshiba 57HDX82 TV if I get rid of it?
3) Is $400 ($115 rebuilt part and $275 labor) worth the cost to fix it knowing it may not last?
4) If I do the repair, should I also replace the other two IC boards for an additional $100? I've already replaced the IC TA 1360N board (part 23009132) 4 months ago.

Thanks, I really appreciate your help!!!

Toshiba 50HX81 - purchased July 2002, now out of extended warranty!

I now have the dreaded conversion problem, when doing a Touch Focus, it indicates a problem with the text in red, when doing the touch focus the red line is bent in a couple of places.

The convergence components are not on a separate board but part of what looks more like a motherboard with several other boards and all the tuning heads etc.

I cannot see any resistors that look fried, it all looks in good shape but to be really sure i need the board out to look at it in more detail.

Has anybody any experience in removing this board or the most likely fix, ie bad solder joints or the complete IC/resistor change?

Tim

. . . to my Hitachi 53FDX01B (early chassis without the magic focus button).

After searching ariound I decided to use the old standby . . Ebay . . to locate what I wanted.

There were two vendors who showed up selling the specific Hitachi repair kit for the DP-05 convergence board - cost was about US$50 for both, but one was in New York (where I was shipping to) and wanted sales tax, while the other was further south.

This was for Hitachi's kit, not an assemblage of bits put together by some individual - it came in Hitachi's packing, with Hitachi's instructions (though with the web based resources, such as this board their instructions weren;t required).

Searching on the kit number (X480301) gives me two vendors today. I bought mine from PatsAppleCrate - it was marginally cheaper and they are a quality vendor - no affiliation.

Ok, so I replaced both STK-120 IC's in Hitachi 43inch and tested all resistors (all tested OK) Apon putting it back together The problem is worse. Instead of only the red being off now all three are horribly off and the image is warped in at the top and the bottom. When I press the magic focus button I get the 3 light crosses but there are nowere close to converged....
I have checked and rechecked the board for bad solder joints (and redone many even though they looked good) It seems almost like the IC's aren't getting any power as they aren't getting very hot....
Any and all Ideas are very much appreciated... thank you